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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Default MDF vs timber for picture frames

    Hi all

    I've been instructed to build about 10 picture frames for some brilliant photos we hvae been given. The frames will be painted black to match the decor and the B&W photos. So I am not fussed about the type of timber.

    Will MDF work for frames? It is cheap as chips and I could make a stack up from just one sheet. Or should I go for some DAR pine etc?

    I'll probably use biscuits to join the panels together if that makes any difference.

    Cheers

    Trav

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Adelaide Hills
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    Default

    Trav,

    I'm not sure whether my opinion counts or not, as I have never made picture frames. However I would use the MDF if you are planning to paint, there is less chance of movement in the timber.

    Himzo.
    There's no such thing as too many Routers

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Melbourne S.E Burbs
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    476

    Default

    For biscuit joinery I'd use pine myself, as mdf seems to really suck up glue on end grain which might make a weak mitre joint. Having said that, you will have the bisuits doing their job as well, so it's kind of iffy. I guess it depends on the style and size of frames you're intending to make, and how heavy the whole thing including glass will be.

    Since I bought a Kreg Jig I've been using pocket screw joints all the time on picture & mirror frames. I find them fantastic for strength, and they also pull the joint together nice and tight.


    Cheers,


    Justin.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Tin Can Bay, Queensland, Australia
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    Default

    Hi Trav
    If you're going to paint 'em IMHO mdf should be fine.

    SWMBO this end wants her degrees & certificates framed. All odd sizes!! :confused: and she likes the looks of that Red Cedar I spent $600 on so I'm starting with roughcut timber ripping jointing moulding etc finishing with cabinet makers wax.

    I cut to size and glue the frame with one of those el cheapo webbing frame clamps and then reinforce the corners with the little flat angle shaped nails which are sold in Bunnies with the framing accessories. That works like a treat is quick and easier than biscuits.

    And your a better man than I if you can cut 3mm glass :mad: In the end just took em all to the glass shop and got them to do em

    Jamie

    Mind you if your photos are a standard size I'd be off to Crazy Clarks $2 shop coz a sane human wouldn't bother but that's another story. I know there was a reason I married a psychologist :confused:
    Perhaps it is better to be irresponsible and right, than to be responsible and wrong.
    Winston Churchill

  6. #5
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    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    I assume you are going to cut them out one piece so theres no joins to do.
    You should be able to make attractive frames with appropriate edge shapes.
    Go for it !!!
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    I made some mirror frames from MDF and it worked a treat. I used biscuits for the mitre corners - they have held heavy bevelled mirrors for a few years with no problem. Biscuits probably werent the best choice, but would be fine for a lighter frame like a photo. If you are going to paint something, MDF is a great material, and as a picture frame it wont suffer from its main shortcoming (which is its tendancy to sag if unsupported).

    Cutting the mdf into strips and then joining the four pieces together as a frame allowed me to rout a simple but attractive pattern on the edges. Without that, they would have been just too uninspiring.

    Arron

  8. #7
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    Jan 2004
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    hobart
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    And your a better man than I if you can cut 3mm glass :mad: In the end just took em all to the glass shop and got them to do em


    Hi Jamie

    I cut lots of 3mm glass and heres how I do it;

    Use a good quality cutter and rule (or guide) and use the lightest possible pressure - just run it lightly across the full length of the glass.

    Put a small dowel (the ones used with dowelling jigs) at each end of the cut.

    Place smallest amount of pressure on far edges of the glass and it should cut perfect.

    Or you can do away with the dowells and slide it to the edge of the bench so the cut line is just on the edge and let gravity do the work.

    the secret is in the delicate light touch.

    good luck

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