Thread: Please help me identify tree from pics

Thanks John - I guess you are talking about Celery Wood ( crushed leaves smell like Celery, fast growing pioneer tree useless as timber as opposed to Celery Top/Celery Top Pine whose leaves look like Celery leaves and a quality timber). I guess it's fortunate that I haven't felled any barber-chairing trees yet, though I normally do the side nicks to try and reduce that risk. It doesn't seem like a characteristic of a slow growing hard fine grained timber tree, but won't be a problem for me as I won't cut any celery wood now that I know it, and won't have the opportunity unfortunately to cut any celery top as I don't think it grows up here. I am kind of interested to know which is the killer tree now that you've brought it up

Btw John I assumed you assumed Celery Wood was a different name or misnomer for Celery Top like I originally did, apologies if I got that wrong

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Btw John I assumed you assumed Celery Wood was a different name or misnomer for Celery Top like I originally did, apologies if I got that wrong

Locally (FNQ) the name I've always heard was "celery top". It is "celery wood" I guess... just never heard it called that before... but either way it's the tree you've pictured and in no way related to the Tassie "celery top".

It's the FNQ version I'm referring to as dangerous to fell. Best bet is to give it a "small" (25% of diameter or so) front, then if possible do a small plunge forward to your hinge that leaves a generous latch at the back, similar to as illustrated below but with less bore cut and more latch. If there's no lean to work with just drive a couple wedges into the bore cut to preload the tree before you start the back cut. The tree can still barber chair doing this but the incidence is greatly reduced and if it does it's more prone to fall forward of the split then back of it.

Heavy Forward Leaners (The boring technique) Begin by making a shallow notch (1/4 to 1/3 dia. of tree). Next, holding the saw bar horizontal to the plane of the notch and at a slightly higher plane, the tree is bored out cutting back from the notch, leaving a good hinge and sufficient holding wood. The same boring procedure is then performed on the other side of the tree, ensuring that the two boring cuts meet properly, and leaving a strap of holding wood. Then the back strap is severed by a cut horizontal to the boring cut, one to two inches below the boring cut; the holding wood at the back severs and the tree falls, guided by the hinge.

Thanks John I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I wonder if you wouldn't mind pointing out some other dangerous trees for a young un to be wary of