Thread: What plywood for cabinets in Australia?

BC radiata is average at best. You're right, good quality Ply is expensive here.
Not sure where you are, B/BB Birch $220 a sheet for 18mm. B/BB Birch Plywood – Bord Products

Product Catalogue | Plyco

Some options from these guys like poplar plywood might work you can download this catalogue. $167 for their 18mm Gaboon Marine ply.

I would suggest that you shop around to find alternate suppliers to make sure you are getting the best for that grade ply.

What application will cabinet serve? knock about shed storage, or a functional internal unit, i.e. bookshelf, bedside units, cabinetry in the kitchen, laundry, bedrooms etc.

Will the surface veneer be the visible face? or will the ply be surfaced with a laminate, Formica / Laminex etc?

Does it need to bear significant loads? structural / non-structural. Structural plys generaly have an A or B bond with downgrade face veneers or a phenolic surface for "form ply".

The service area, i.e. wet / dry, never wet, occasional wetting (splash), or pooled water (vanity top), possible drenching from say a water overflow, determines the recommended bond type.

A Bond Phenol, Resorcinol or Tannin Formaldehyde Fully weather resistant - marine ply, exposed structural ply.
B Bond Melamine fortified Urea Formaldehyde Partially weather resistant (2-5 years exposed) - structural ply in protected areas.
C Bond Urea Formaldehyde Interior glue - high humidity applications - internal wet areas - bathrooms, kitchens etc
D Bond Extended Urea formaldehyde Interior glue - low humidity applications - internal dry areas - living rooms, bedrooms etc.

Veneer face quality
Plywood has a "face" & a "back" with the surface veneer on each face classified as "appearance" or non-appearance" grade. Labeled as Face/Back i.e. C/D

A is a high-quality appearance grade veneer for decorative uses.
S is an appearance grade veneer which allows more natural characteristics.
B is suitable for high-quality paint finishing.
C has a solid makeup and is designed for non-visual applications.
D is a non-appearance grade explicitly designed for structural applications.

If the ply face veneer is to be the final surface for say a painted bedside table, then you would want at least a "B" face grade veneer or perhaps "C" grade if you want rustic. If for say storage areas for linen etc you may require B/B grade.

Some overseas manufacturers specify an "AA" grade is the finest available - no surface defects at all; "A" face grade is typically marine ply or "Birch Ply" grades; "B" minimal surface imperfections, knots, borer holes etc.

Cost is determined by the application, bond type, thickness, veneer face grade/s, rarity/availability of face veneer/s, special properties (fire or acoustic rating, bendy ply etc), stock lines or special order, then quantity ordered etc.

So much commercial stuff in Australia is based around use of melamine clad Highly Moisture Resistant (HMR) chipboard or MDF. Price is much cheaper and it is as easy to work with as your plywoods as a substrate. Does not exhibit the issues of swelling if exposed to moisture that standard generic Chipboard and MDF have.

If you really need to commit to ply as a substrate, I would recommend decent Baltic Birch over most other options because you will get two clear sides, no voids, and virtually double the number of plies for the same thickness. It provides a perfect substrate for veneers etc without issues of voids in inner layers telegraphing through after finishing, and some of the other problems cheap crappy ply comes with. I worked in a cabinetmaking shop for 5 years toward the end of my working life, in that time we had one house lot job that used ply rather than HMR. That was for a person who wanted a true redgum finish because he had grown up in the redgum forest areas along the Murray River.

Originally Posted by Lyssastrasza

Beginner with not much experience with plywood here. American woodworkers seem to go on and on about using Baltic Birch for everything but it seems pretty expensive to get something similar over here at this time. Do you guys have go-to products for building basic cabinetry? Would something like 18mm B/C Radiata Pine at $108 per sheet be suitable or are there better options for things in the way of looks, quality, or cost?

I'm a beginner too. I made this tool cabinet out of mostly Red Oak faced plywood not too long ago all from bunnings. The door frames are the only solid wood used, once again Red Oak timber and 7mm ply panel.

IMG_8918.jpg IMG_8902.jpg

Heres the build: No Frills Red Oak Tool Cabinet