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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    So how come I can punch holes through 6mm hardened steel with out breaking drill bits?
    You have obviously never worked with oooooold ironbark. Something to avoid like the plague, or you will have nightmares for a long time.
    .

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by astrid View Post
    I think the reason that one can drill holes in metal but break a bit in timber is to do with friction, timber seems to grab more
    I'm not a scientist but the timber seems to create more friction than metal does.
    I hope this kinda makes sense

    astrid
    If you want to know what friction is, try drilling through hardened steel.

    If the bit is grabbing or too aggressive, lower the relief angle of the cutting edge.....and hold your drill straight.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzi View Post
    You have obviously never worked with oooooold ironbark. Something to avoid like the plague, or you will have nightmares for a long time.
    Obviously I haven't.

    The large showcase display units I have been building from old recycled Ironbark for the last month must actually have been Radiata Pine that had been professionally stained and hardened by someone who really knows what they are doing, because I had no problem nailing it, drilling or machining it.

    This is a picture of me gobsmacked by how easy it was.....
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post

    The large showcase display units I have been building from old recycled Ironbark for the last month must actually have been Radiata Pine that had been professionally stained and hardened by a professional, because I had no problem nailing it, drilling or machining it.
    Like you I have some old old ironbark and had no problems with fastening by different means but when I went to turn a knob on the lathe it decided to relocate to about 50 different areas of the shed.
    Character building stuff
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain View Post
    Like you I have some old old ironbark and had no problems with fastening by different means but when I went to turn a knob on the lathe it decided to relocate to about 50 different areas of the shed.
    Character building stuff
    or pants filling!

    Being so hard, it does tend to shatter when its forced to do something it doesn't want to. Off cuts on a dock saw can go flying with force, and a thin off cut on the TS is exciting if you don't have a zero clearance plate in.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  6. #20
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    You could tell us how you really feel, what was denigrating

    Voila............what am I replying to? post has vanished

    Hardened steel is a breeze compare to *ooooold ironbark*, just because you did some well seasoned ironbark recently is no call for your idiotic reply, again, try finding some really old stuff before denegrating others.

    You really don't want to get into a p*****g contest about drilling or drilling hard materials.
    Last edited by Iain; 27th October 2007 at 05:24 PM. Reason: tpyo
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  7. #21
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    Nobody mentioned the correct speed for the bit, why was that? To be able to clear the bit and avoid heat, therefore bluntness, you need the correct speed.

    To cut really hard woods, should the angle of the bit change to more closely resemble steel cutting bits?

  8. #22
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    Default thanks guys

    Next time i will
    1 reduce speed of drill
    2 make sure i have a good drill bit. was using the ones supplied with dremel
    3 insert steel screw first and wax the screw

    dont know what to do about the bent nails.
    in the end I pegged the top on

    astrid

  9. #23
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    Astrid, you may need to increase the speed, not decrease it. If the waste is not being ejected from the flutes by centrifugal force then it is probably too slow. The smaller the bit, the faster the revs required.

    Look at this chart.

  10. #24
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    And another thing to follow on from Groogy's post is you may need to pull the bit out 2 or 3 times before reaching depth to clear the flutes as well
    Cheers

    DJ


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  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by djstimber View Post
    And another thing to follow on from Groogy's post is you may need to pull the bit out 2 or 3 times before reaching depth to clear the flutes as well
    When drilling timber, regardless of specie, I find that the most important point.

    Mind you, I see plenty of tradesmen just push down as hard and as fast as they can. These same tradesmen also don't know how to sharpen a drill bit.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  12. #26
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    Default hot db

    wont increasing the speed on a fine DB increase friction, thus heat and soften DB thus make more prone to breaking
    sorry not being a SM
    astrid

  13. #27
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    Re read 23 & 24, the friction is generated from the build up of crud in the flutes, remove and clean, you will feel it when it stops cutting, and a higher speed will assist in the ejection.
    Try a spur point bit too, does a better job than a metal drill and cuts a cleaner hole.
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  14. #28
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    Default that makes sense

    now what the h--- is a spur point bit

    astrid

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by astrid View Post
    now what the h--- is a spur point bit

    astrid
    All you would need to know on different drill bits
    Cheers

    DJ


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  16. #30
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    Default ahhh those thingys

    I call these a spade bit
    but do they come 1m ?

    astrid

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