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Thread: posts in ground

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default posts in ground

    I am looking to build a shed (5x7m) using untreated 400mm ironbark posts direct into the ground. Should they be treated and should they be planted in cement. Any Suggestions?

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  3. #2
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    should be ok. remove the sapwood for the section underground
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
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    Coburg, Vic
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    thor,

    you are going to need to set them in some form of footing to counteract the uplift force - else you may find your shed blowing away in strong wind. The size of the footing will depend on number of uprights to roof area, soil type, climatic conditions and whether you have a slab or not.
    This message has been proudly brought to you by Bunyip

  5. #4
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    Goombungee, QLD
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    Thor
    Bobs right about removing the sap for the under ground section. If you wish to cement the posts in the ground (there's usually no need, excepting for local gov regs), make sure your cement forms a "collar" around the post above ground level. This insures that no moisture stays around the post prematurely rotting it.

    Bruce
    I never try and get my ambitions and capabilities mixed up, but a few cold beers, on a hot day, and well, you all know what happens next!

  6. #5
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    Ain't no use planting them in cement. There's no way known they'll grow
    Boring signature time again!

  7. #6
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    Having concrete in the footing is no big deal. Making sure the posts are nice and deep is far more important. The CSIRO has info on pole frame buildings which you may find handy.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  8. #7
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    Smile thanks all

    will give the cement a miss then

  9. #8
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    when i did mine had to get council approval.
    and inspections.
    plans etc.
    ptc.
    p.t.c

  10. #9
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    A good slop of creosote has been traditional on the bit below ground.

    aparantly timber from the immediate local area resists rot in the ground better.

  11. #10
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    Darwin, Northern Territory
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    Default Crushed Gravel

    Cement tends to creat a good water holder when your wood shrinks and expands causing the wood to rot. I recommend that you dig the hole about 60cm then using crushed gravel fill in the hole and then compact it well with a crow bar. You can also add some side stabilisers undergound and affix then to the wood at different levels. The crushed gravel allows for the water to drain off as well as allowing you to move it before fixing. You can mount stabilisers on it at different levels as well.

    Best of luck.

    Cheers

    Kris
    "Last year I said I'd fix the squeak in the cupbaord door hinge... Right now I have nearly finished remodelling the whole damn kitchen!"

    [email protected]

  12. #11
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    If you're in an extreme termite risk area it's worth running a bit of poly or copper pipe down the post into the bottom of the hole. Run it about 100 mm out of the ground and saddle it to the post. Pour in a bit of your favourite poison brew (creosote & sump oil, or a commercial prep) every so often to keep the little nasties away. Bung a cork in the top to stop it filling with rubbish or rainwater.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman
    A good slop of creosote has been traditional on the bit below ground.

    aparantly timber from the immediate local area resists rot in the ground better.
    This is very true, any timber placed in the close proximity to where it is cut will last years longer than if bought in from outside. Dunno why, just know it happens.
    Boring signature time again!

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