Thread: rose gum.

G'day All.
I was informed that the Blue Gum in South Africa was a cross breed for E. Saligna & E. Grandis. The wood was considered non-suseptable to lyctus attack untill it reached 20 Y.O. then it became suseptable and needed treating.

The plantation E. Grandis planted south of here was originally planted for pulp by APM to stop moth attack on the real planation of E. Duneii. the E. Grandis was planted around the perimiter of the Duneii to act as a buffer. Trouble was, no-one told the moths that, and they went hell for leather at the Duneii.
APM went arze-up and the plantations were taken over by NSW SF. They in turn sold us the wood. Truely schit timber. 20 to 35 Y.O. vein and knots throughout.

New research has now informed us that E. Grandis may very well be suseptable and may need treating similar to E. Saligna.

We get our E. Saligna from many areas. North to Tweed heads, South to Taree and west to Glenn Innes.

And it is All E. Saligna.

yes please weisboy

emmutchizzit

regards,
conwood

G'day Weisy. Just to add my bit, your description of the tree with green(ish) bark sounds like E. torelliana aka Kadagi.
I am still sulking about the $1800 it cost me to get rid of 11 of the useless things five years ago when we built. And at that price the stumps were left in the ground. They were 30 y.o. trees.
They had sfa heart wood and I notice the centre of one stump has rotted away.
May the best man win!

Barry Hicks

Originally Posted by weisyboy

in regards to the price of camphor i was quoted $5000 by the slab hut at capalaba and a mate of mine was quoted $4500 by them as well.

$4500-$5000 for a weed!. Over west I got mine for $1600 a cube and it had beautiful figure and colour. Seem to charge similar here at the markets too (prob closer to $1800 from what I have seen)

Corbs

If you want slabs at good prices, I'd call the slab factory at Mullumbimby.
I hear they are very good. I've not dealt with them personaly.

I grew up in Coorabell, just behind Mullumbimby, and that area sure knows how to grow Camphor. On our 200 acres as a kid my memories are full of constant chopping down piling and bonfire-ing of the stuff (after filling up the woodpile for the open fire and potbellys). Our land (sadly not ours anymore) was literally covered in the stuff. We had some simply stunning massive trees around the houses and in other key locations that we would leave untouched, but out in the forests and in the paddocks, if they were in the way then they were fair game.
I guess times have changed, but I can't really believe up there that there would be a need to pay for it- certainly not at the prices quoted. We used to give what we could away- to a turner who lived up the road (he was on similar land so I don't know why he didn't just get it himself- mustn't have owned a chainsaw?) but this was miniscule compared to the amount that got burn't or rotted in piles.

firstly i would like to apologise.

what is called "rose gum" around here is actualy what others call "cadagi".

so noone was rong just a bit of a local slang problem.

befor i got my mill i went to the slab place a mulambimby to get some timber but they have no hardwood.

and as for the $3500 per cube that was for custom sawn timber to cover me if someone wants it all cut up into 1" x 1" boards in lengths of 3ft because that ould be a lot of work and if i said $2000 a cube then i would be out of pocket.

the price is mutch less if you buy slabs that i have cut to standard size.

if anyone would like some please pm me or email [email protected].

Originally Posted by glock40sw

If you want slabs at good prices, I'd call the slab factory at Mullumbimby.
I hear they are very good. I've not dealt with them personaly.

I got a few bits form them one time, nice timber but a but expensives, Stans mill on the other side of the mullumbimby is usually cheaper and hes more entertaining...

Yes the going price for good camphor is between 12-1800 per cube, theres heaps around...doesnt matter what profiteering misquoters may quote for it. Its all salvage timber thats probably cost them nothing and its classed as a weed to be removed and the timber, even tho its useful for some craft uses, is nowhere even close to the quality and usability of many native aussie hardwoods that go for somewhere in the 2-3k per cube range

my travels recently have seen thats theres a genuine 'problem' in the salvage timber industry at the moment ( thats people who collect and recycle used or discarded timber for resale) that people who wanna make a buck are often trying to charge ridiculous prices for commonly available timbers way above and beyond what is conisdered 'normal' or common prices, i dunno if they get the prices quoted but i have seen some doosies recently and it makes it more difficult for the genuine recyclers and more difficult for the wood users and tends to encourage others to over inflate their prices as in, "oh Joe was quoting 5k per cube for Camphor so i better do the same", such over inflating grows because people wanna justify it cos they saw someone else over charging.

Jeez i might start a thread about it...dedicated to the rogue at a local recyclers whose trying to charge $160 for a piece of medium quality redgum burl about 40cm X 30 cm and 2 cm thick, when the common price for the middle range burl species is between 5-10 bucks per kilo and this chunk probably weighs bewteen 1-2 kg...

Originally Posted by barry hicks

G'day Weisy. Just to add my bit, your description of the tree with green(ish) bark sounds like E. torelliana aka Kadagi.

yeah thats sounds right Barry, the greenish crap looks similar in tree structure to the bluegum but doesnt grow near as big, a few of them round here nestled among the hundreds of e.saligna

Originally Posted by weisyboy

what is called "rose gum" around here is actualy what others call "cadagi".

so noone was rong just a bit of a local slang problem.

wrong again mate, if you wanna masquarade as a legit timber merchant you probably should at least get your basic facts and species right otherwise people who do know a little about timber will just laugh at ya...and remember every time you spread bull????? about some timber species someone who doesnt know might believe you and spread the crap...and so the bulshit flows and grows like a weed...but you might have trouble get 5k per cube for bull???? but theres woorse things in society...

just check the normal web sources and common timbers will be easily ID'ded
in fact its probably time, Weisydude that you either got yourself a good book from the DPI or at least collected free info to inform yourself...

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/hardwoodsqld/13206.html

36 Rose gum

Botanical name: Eucalyptus grandis
Family name: Myrtaceae
Local names: flooded gum, scrub gum
Tree description and natural occurrence

A very tall forest tree reaching 45 to 55 m in height and 1 to 2 m in stem diameter.
The major area of natural occurrence is from Newcastle in New South Wales to Bundaberg in Queensland. Smaller stands occur to the west of Mackay in central Queensland and in the ranges from north west of Townsville to west of Bloomfield in northern Queensland. It has also been trialed in plantations in Queensland and New South Wales.
Sawn timber of this species is readily available.
Wood appearance

Colour. The heartwood ranges in colour from pale pink to red brown. Sapwood is usually paler in colour but is not always clearly differentiated.
Grain. Moderately coarse textured but uniform. Predominantly straight grained with no pronounced figure.
Wood properties

Density. Can vary with maturity of the wood, with an average of about 800 kg/m³at 12 % moisture content; approximately 1.2 m³of seasoned sawn timber per tonne.
Strength groups. S3 unseasoned; SD4 seasoned.
Stress grades. F8, F11, F14, F17 (unseasoned), F11, F14, F17, F22 (seasoned), when visually stress graded in accordance with AS2082-1979, ‘Visually stress-graded hardwoods for structural purposes.’
Joint groups. J3 unseasoned; JD2 seasoned.
Shrinkage to 12% MC. 7.2 % (tangential); 4.0 % (radial).
Unit shrinkage. 0.34 % (tangential); 0.25 % (radial). These values apply to timber reconditioned after seasoning.
Durability above-ground. Class 2 – life expectancy 15 to 40 years.
Durability in-ground. Class 3 – life expectancy 5 to 15 years.
Lyctine susceptibility. Sapwood not susceptible to lyctid borer attack.
Termite resistance. Not resistant.
Preservation. Sapwood readily accepts preservative impregnation but penetration of heartwood is negligible using currently available commercial processes.
Seasoning. Can be satisfactorily dried using conventional air and kiln seasoning methods. Care needs to be taken in the early stages of drying to avoid collapse and surface checking.
Hardness. Moderate (rated 3 on a 6 class scale) in relation to indentation and ease of working with hand tools.
Machining. Machines and turns well to a smooth surface.
Fixing. No difficulty has been experienced with the use of standard fittings and fastenings.
Gluing. Can be satisfactorily bonded using standard procedures.
Finishing. Will readily accept paint, stain and polish.
Uses

Construction. As sawn timber in general house framing, cladding, internal and external flooring, mouldings, linings, joinery, fascia and barge boards.
Decorative. Internal quality furniture, outdoor furniture, joinery, carving, turnery.
Others. Structural plywood, boat building (framing components, planking, decking). Has been used for boat oars, dowel rods, broom handles, brush ware, fruit cases.
Identification features

General characteristics
Sapwood. Light brown; usually paler than heartwood.
Heartwood. Pink to red-brown in colour.
Texture. Open, uniform texture, grain usually straight, or slightly interlocked.
Wood structure
Vessels. Large in size, visible without a lens. Variable in number, diffusely distributed. Diagonal chains common. Vessel lines prominent. Cells mostly open but tyloses common in mature wood.
Parenchyma. Scarce.
Rays. Fine, visible only with a lens.
Other features
Burning splinter test. A match size splinter burns with difficulty to charcoal.

and as for the $3500 per cube that was for custom sawn timber to cover me if someone wants it all cut up into 1" x 1" boards in lengths of 3ft because that ould be a lot of work and if i said $2000 a cube then i would be out of pocket.

I dunno mate, yr site did say 3500 and if u r familar with standard business practices you would charge a stable amount per cube for the timber and them an amount per hour for the labour innvolved in cutting the stuff...unless you charge your labour out by the cube .....? and add that to the price of yr timber..which misrepresents both yr timber price and labour costs, milling and cutting costs for labour and sawmill use can vary but somewhere bewteen 100 and 300 per hour depending on your machine sizes, fuel or power costs, the hardness of the timbers(how long they take to cut etc) and how many blokes you have doing it...

BTW the kadagi is the weird green crap that looks a bit like a BG tree when they are young, nice garden trees but useless for woodwork..


;-)

Don't have the time to read through all the posts above, but when I was at Anagote the other day looking for some sydney blue gum the guy was saying they don't stock it anymore because there was too much confusion between flooded gum and blue gum - confusion that was added to the fact they often cross-breed. So they only stock flooded gum these days....

Lighter blue gum looked like flooded gum and darker flooded gum looked like blue gum....

Originally Posted by Frithy

Lighter blue gum looked like flooded gum and darker flooded gum looked like blue gum....

You are right. With our T&G flooring we are leaning toward treating all flooded and Blue Gum and colour grading light and dark.

Gives a more uniform colour to the floors. We are having Janka testing done on the planation flooded at the moment.

Originally Posted by reeves

BTW the kadagi is the weird green crap that looks a bit like a BG tree when they are young, nice garden trees but useless for woodwork..


;-)

Not comletely useless, John. It has very pretty grain and is quite stable, if a bit brittle. I actually like the grain so much I use a picture of it on my business card. The real problems with cadaghi are:
* thick sap wood means that anything smaller than about 600 isn't much use
* the kino (resin) they exude attracts native bees and is useless as a food for them. It also tends to clog the entrance holes to their hivesm killing off the hive
* It readily hybridises with several species, forming sterile hybrids and as it is so fast-growing and so abundantly-flowering, this is a potential problem for regrowth.

I understand they're the only eucalypt tropical rainforest species

Originally Posted by Exador

Not comletely useless, John. It has very pretty grain and is quite stable, if a bit brittle. I actually like the grain so much I use a picture of it on my business card. The real problems with cadaghi are:
* thick sap wood means that anything smaller than about 600 isn't much use
* the kino (resin) they exude attracts native bees and is useless as a food for them. It also tends to clog the entrance holes to their hivesm killing off the hive
* It readily hybridises with several species, forming sterile hybrids and as it is so fast-growing and so abundantly-flowering, this is a potential problem for regrowth.

I understand they're the only eucalypt tropical rainforest species

ok cool, thanks for the info Craig, i 'll try and cut some up and have a look, theres a few around here, strange stuff indeed...

found some more info here



http://www.bfns.org.au/index.php?c=5&w=45
http://www.envirotalk.com.au/forum/i...?showtopic=327

Originally Posted by http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/71133/

Family: Myrtaceae
Genus: Corymbia (kor-RIM-bee-uh) (Info)
Species: torelliana
Synonym:Eucalyptus torelliana
Synonym:Eucalyptus torreliana

Category:
Trees


over 40 ft. (12 m)

Spacing:
20-30 ft. (6-9 m)

Hardiness:
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6° C (20° F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5° C (40° F)

Sun Exposure:
Full Sun

Danger:
Unknown - Tell us

Bloom Color:
White/Near White

Bloom Time:
Late Winter/Early Spring
Mid Spring
Late Spring/Early Summer
Mid Summer

Foliage:
Evergreen
Velvet/Fuzzy-Textured

Other details:
May be a noxious weed or invasive
This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds
Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater
Self-sows freely; deadhead if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season

Soil pH requirements:
5.1 to 5.5 (strongly acidic)
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)

Propagation Methods:
From seed; sow indoors before last frost

Seed Collecting:
Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed
Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds

Don't have the time to read through all the posts above

i'v given up to.

wrong again mate,

ok would you be happy if i said that you were right and knew everything and i was a compleat ideot and am never going to post my thaughts again.

BTW the kadagi is the weird green crap that looks a bit like a BG tree when they are young, nice garden trees but useless for woodwork

this is were you are rong and you should not spread bull, bla, bla, bla.
i personaly love the timber in it and know many others that do to.

there are many species that are not considerd good for milling that a realy good for wood work.

scribly gum
wattle
soap tree
willow
she oak
camphor laurel
cadagi
and many others.

ok cool, thanks for the info Craig, i 'll try and cut some up and have a look, theres a few around here, strange stuff indeed...

that was a bit of a back flip reeves'e