Thread: End sealer - drying timber - quick survey

Mal at Boutique Timbers uses Caltex and it works fine
Greg

The Caltex looks to be a version of what I used to know as Mobilcer-c (or -m) which has been renamed to "Mobil Log Sealer" and is, apparently, now a runnier mix. (Discussed in this thread: Drying Timber)

The Mobilcer's good stuff & I see no reason for the Caltex (or BP's) version to be greatly different.

A bit on the exxy side, but a little bit goes a along way and it pays for itself in the long run thru wood savings.

There are many cheaper alternatives (dipping in molten beeswax or old paint, etc.) however by preference I always keep a small container of 'proper' log sealer next to my chainsaw.

One problem I have with with the Caltex stuff is it has a shelf life of only 12 months so buying it in bulk and expecting to get 5 years out of a drum is not possible.

Also if it only lasts sealed up inside a can for 12 months, one might then question how effective is it on a log end where it is really exposed to moisture and air?

This is probably because the stuff that is really effective is the stuff that has been absorbed into the wood and what remains on the outside is not that relevant.

I have experimented in making my own sealer from cheap candle wax and turps with mixed results.
The amount of wax needed is small so the cost ends up being the cost of the solvent which makes it much cheaper than the
Someone has suggested using candles and Kero might be better?

Woodsmith in Melbourne sell an end grain sealer that seems Ok. I think they have an open day coming up in December. Cheers David

for Caltex timber sealer.
I have had some for over 12 months and is still OK. I bought another 20kg earlier this year for around $120. If the price scares you may consider sharing it and spreading the cost. That's what I have done after I sealed Blackwood slabs which I had slabbed and are now in storage.

Originally Posted by BobL

One problem I have with with the Caltex stuff is it has a shelf life of only 12 months so buying it in bulk and expecting to get 5 years out of a drum is not possible.

Oh. Strike one against the Caltex then. I still have a few litres decanted from my last bulk buy of mobilcer-c, which was around... oh... 5years ago? And it's still usable.

Also if it only lasts sealed up inside a can for 12 months, one might then question how effective is it on a log end where it is really exposed to moisture and air?

This is probably because the stuff that is really effective is the stuff that has been absorbed into the wood and what remains on the outside is not that relevant.

I was under the impression it's the membrane that forms over the outside face, covering the end grain, which slows down the permeation rate of the moisture?

I have experimented in making my own sealer from cheap candle wax and turps with mixed results.
The amount of wax needed is small so the cost ends up being the cost of the solvent which makes it much cheaper than the
Someone has suggested using candles and Kero might be better?

How's your shed for lumps of foam insulation? You know, the little packing peanuts or the big pressed pieces shaped to hold appliances in the cardboard boxes.

A plastic bucket, a bit of turps and break up the foam to dissolve into it. Knead well, adjusting the turps/foam mix until it's a consistency from which you can 'sculpt' shapes similar to clay modelling.

This stuff works. Not as well as a 'proper' end-grain sealer, but it works at least as well as other methods, such as paint or beeswax.

A bit harsh on the skin... rubber gloves anybody? ...and it's difficult to keep it away from young kids should they catch you making a mix. DAMHIKT.

(All Kudos to my junior high school teacher for teaching me this method as a form of 'art.' How things change... )

Got any old water based paint?

Use that before it goes hard & you chuck it away.

You may also find some cheap at hardware shops 'cos it was a mistint.

Merry Christmas everyone,

I thought to follow up on this thread and report some disappointing results.

As suggested, there were a few suggestions and I tried most of them. Using a stash of about 20 logs, a mixture of walnut, ash, cedar and others grown in Canberra I tried a few of:

- bees wax
- mix of 20% bees wax with palm wax
- oil pain (white)
- latex paint

They were all pretty hopeless. The logs that were splitting did not stop and those that hadn't, did. So much for that experiment.

I have two gigantic oak logs that are next up for the treatment....and I don't want to blow it, so does anyone know where I can buy some commercial log end sealer?

Caltex won't deal with me as I'm not a distributor and speaking to all the obvious caltex distributors here have ZERO, repeat ZERO, idea of what I'm talking about when I ring. I re-rang Caltex' main number, was led down 3 garden paths before being told in no uncertain terms to speak with their distributors. Groan. Really. (CEOs should be forced to use their own companies products and "customer" anti-service systems)

Anyway! Anyone know where I might buy some in/near Canberra or order some?

Originally Posted by Evanism

Anyway! Anyone know where I might buy some in/near Canberra or order some?

I can't help you, however without hijacking your thread, I also would like to know where to buy some on the southern side of Melbourne.

Endcheck is easy to purchase in Brisbane,so shouldn't be a problem getting it in Canberra,or transported down from Sydney...it is 50 percent water,50 percent wax,i find it is a little too 'runny',as it spills off the paintbrush easily ..i leave the lid off the container for a few months in order to reduce some of the water out of the mix,as it makes it more manageable..used it for years now,and swear by it..if your log wants to split,you will not stop it from doing so ...don't cut corners,dig into the pocket and get what works..MM

It only has a 12 month shelf life too, apparently:
http://aftek.com.au/pdf/tds/Endcheck.pdf

and 20 litres would last a helluva a long time for the average punter. We need to find some people who want to share a drum.

This thread brings up a related question: is it just the end grain that needs sealing or should it come back up the board a little way (say 25mm)?

I was given a piece of timber by Ern (rsser) recently and it had been dipped in what looked like paraffin wax up to about 25mm depth.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

It only has a 12 month shelf life too, apparently:
http://aftek.com.au/pdf/tds/Endcheck.pdf

and 20 litres would last a helluva a long time for the average punter. We need to find some people who want to share a drum.

This thread brings up a related question: is it just the end grain that needs sealing or should it come back up the board a little way (say 25mm)?

I was given a piece of timber by Ern (rsser) recently and it had been dipped in what looked like paraffin wax up to about 25mm depth.

Brett,the 12 month shelf life is nonsense..it will last for a number of years..it's only wax and water,just have to agitate the mix every now and then.Over time it will lose moisture out of the can,but that is a GOOD thing,as i previously pointed out.And if it does become too tacky,just add some water...i seal both end and quarter-sawn grain,and by all means,slather it down the board a bit too..MM

Not sure what breed my sealer is without going and looking, I think it might be the Caltex stuff, I got a 20 litre drum off a a guy who had had it for yrs and now Iv'e had it for yrs and as far as I can see it's still going strong.


Pete

has anyone tried Kel Campbell? they are a caltex distributor here on the south coast nsw, they delivered oil products when I worked in servos. I'll try give them a ring after the holiday break and report back!
I have used paste wax in the past but you can not stop all cracking might want to look at your storage methods as well so many factors come into play!