Thread: Seasoning tips for exotics

What are the dimensions of the logs you are cutting and what are the dimensions of the cut pieces.

Originally Posted by BobL

What are the dimensions of the logs you are cutting and what are the dimensions of the cut pieces.

Hi Bob. I have done various lengths and thicknesses. Planks about 1 - 2m long, 20mm wide, thickness 25mm and 40mm. I have also done some slabs and thicker pieces for coffee tables once they have dried. The worst was the jacaranda slabs/pieces which have split badly and some of them have twisted.

You didn't say how big the logs are, when they are small and /or were under tension/compression they are likely to cause more probs

I would never cut at 25 mm as this very likely to lead to problems especially if the logs are small.

Unless the timber is near quarter sawn I wouldn't cut anything narrower than 50 mm and where possible cut 62 mm

Are your cut ends sealed, wax/paint/endche?
Close (450mm) space stickering is important.
Stickers much be same size
Stickers MUST be lined up under each other
Always use a sticker on the ends
Add weight or clamping where possible.
No direct sunlight
Warmth is not necessary, the wood will dry even at sub zero temperatures.
Too low a humidity is more likely to lead to splitting - some sort of loose covering helps reduce rapid moisture loss.

Welcome Bill. Bob is on the right track.

Originally Posted by banter

...stacked them in a dry/dark/warmer Cooler area of my shed..

If you place your timber in a warm area they can effectively cook, cracking the timber too. Even the coolest area of the shed can be too hot. High winds, especially hot winds, can also tend to dry the timber too fast. The stack should be ventilated, but not wind blown. The best idea is to dry the timber as slowly as possible.

Originally Posted by BobL

..I would never cut at 25 mm as this very likely to lead to problems especially if the logs are small....

Interesting you say this Bob. All my smaller pieces up to dia 300mm are cut 25mm thick and up to 0.5m long for pen blanks and boxes. I stack them with ice-cream sticks as stickers at 50-100mm centres and bind them with cable ties back into the log forms to dry. The cable ties are not cut so they can be re-tensioned as necessary.

Thanks Bob and dai sensei they are very useful tips. I obviously read the wrong thing as I thought the warmer part of the shed would be more appropriate. I'll need to decide on a cooler area which is still ventilated. Wind wont be a problem.

Dai sensei with the ice cream sticks, do you double them up or is one enough thickness? Also, is it necessary to treat the ends with wax?

The gum and jacaranda I cut were very large trunks, not small at all, but the cracking was quite severe. I'll be more careful with the stickering and add some weight and light covering on future cuts.

Thanks

Originally Posted by banter

Dai sensei with the ice cream sticks, do you double them up or is one enough thickness? Also, is it necessary to treat the ends with wax?

It depends on the timber. Most fruits and nuts I use 1 as I want them to dry very slowly. Just need to watch for mold.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

It depends on the timber. Most fruits and nuts I use 1 as I want them to dry very slowly. Just need to watch for mold.

Thanks Neil. I gather this will be the beginning of lots of trial and error..

Originally Posted by dai sensei

. . . .Interesting you say this Bob. All my smaller pieces up to dia 300mm are cut 25mm thick and up to 0.5m long for pen blanks and boxes. I stack them with ice-cream sticks as stickers at 50-100mm centres and bind them with cable ties back into the log forms to dry. The cable ties are not cut so they can be re-tensioned as necessary.

It sounds like the pop sticks are the trick here although they sound a bit short?.
I think it's also species related.

Originally Posted by BobL

It sounds like the pop sticks are the trick here although they sound a bit short?.
I think it's also species related.

Right both times Bob. I often have to use multiple ice-cream sticks end to end for the wider bits, likewise cable ties, but often use scrap thin strips of pine for longer stickers.

Can either of you give me approximate times for timber to dry? I realise it would depend on the timber but a ball-park figure would give me an idea for smaller stuff 25mm thickness from smaller logs say 10"+ and 50mm thickness from larger logs say 20"+.

Cheers

The old rule of thumb is 1 year per 25mm of timber exposed. Softwoods like cedar are faster, very close grained hardwoods like Gidgee longer. You can get moisture meters to test but they will only test to the depth of the prongs. I find the best way is cut a piece and hold against your cheek, usually you can then feel any moisture.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

The old rule of thumb is 1 year per 25mm of timber exposed. Softwoods like cedar are faster, very close grained hardwoods like Gidgee longer. You can get moisture meters to test but they will only test to the depth of the prongs. I find the best way is cut a piece and hold against your cheek, usually you can then feel any moisture.

Brilliant, thanks.