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Thread: Stable furniture timber
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5th January 2007, 04:02 PM #1
Stable furniture timber
I need a stable furniture grade timber similar to North American Poplar that can be used for a fairly complex veneering project. Any ideas as to what to use. I would order the poplar but I'd like to see if there are any native timbers here that fit the bill
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5th January 2007, 04:49 PM #2
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7th January 2007, 09:56 PM #3Senior Member
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Yep, hoop pine is the one. Sometimes marketed as Arakaria.
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8th January 2007, 10:26 AM #4
Not knowing much about woods here... Is hoop pine like most pines and has a high resin content
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8th January 2007, 10:27 AM #5
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8th January 2007, 10:28 AM #6
Hoop pine doesn't have a high resin content at all, especially if it has been kiln dried.
Have a nice day - Cheers
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8th January 2007, 10:49 AM #7.
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Is the pine going to be used for formers and/or torsion boxes? If so your best bet is paulownia. Brilliant strength to weight ratio and ultra stable with a very low resin content. Perfect for veneer substraits
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8th January 2007, 11:52 AM #8Senior Member
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Hoop pine is called a pine but while it is a conifer, botanically it's not a true "pine", because it's not a member of the family Pinaceae. It actually belongs to an ancient family of conifers, the Araucariaceae, which were a dominant part of the flora of the supercontinent Gondwanaland. Other members of this family include Norfolk Island Pine and Bunya Pine.
What this means is that assumptions about the nature of "pine" timbers such as radiata (eg. high resin content) do not hold true for hoop pine. My experience with it is has been entirely positive - it's a lovely timber to work with; has a close, even grain; carves well; nice smell; stable; easy to glue; takes fastenings well; grown in sustainable plantations etc. The only drawback is that it doesn't have much figure, but it's a nice buttery yellow colour.
Highly recommended, in other words.
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8th January 2007, 06:09 PM #9
The pic attached is what I plan to do. The cost to import 3" thick walnut plus the movement expected from it in this sort of climate has me thinking of different timbers. So I'm looking at veneering the sides. Needless to say It's important that the substraight is a good secondary wood. The rest will most likely be in solid walnut. I've been quoted $3.50 for a lineal meter of 75x25 hoop pine. Price isn't a problem but sub standard materials will be. So what do you think is Paulownia up to it?
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8th January 2007, 06:12 PM #10
Aussie blackwood is nice and stable and very similar to Walnut so it might be a more economical choice than walnut without sacrificing quality or prestige.
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8th January 2007, 07:16 PM #11
All things being equal most softwoods will exhibit LESS movement with humidity changes than common hardwoods. As long as you get good quality hoop pine, (no knots or weird grain changes) it should be very stable.
And yes.. that sort of piece would look cool in blackwood, which is also a very stable timber and similar colour to the walnut.
Cheers
Ian
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8th January 2007, 07:20 PM #12
Mathew, the hoop pine will do the job. I've worked with it exclusively for alomst 10 years and it is a great timber to work with for carcass type jobs.
Have a nice day - Cheers
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8th January 2007, 10:22 PM #13
The Paulownia can have a bad reputation, solely due to being new and from the marketing of the plantations schemes.
Some view it as "cheap Chinese rubbish". Don't know if that will affect your sales?
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9th January 2007, 06:37 PM #14
As others have said hoop pine is not to be underestimated.
It is much harder and heavier than "other pines" nothing at all like radiata.
It is not excessivly resinous like other pines, so much so it was favoured for making butter boxes as it didn't taint the butter.
I'd go with some of the other comments and have a look at some of the "nice" ausie woods that there is no way you could afford back at home.
Blackwood is beautifull and every bit as good as walnut if you get the "good stuff"
Check out some of the tassy timber.
Exador has some on the shelf at the moment ... would be worth a look.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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9th January 2007, 06:58 PM #15.
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Ive used it now on and off for a few years as a substrait for veneer and im convinced its the best timber for the job. I cant say i have heard any of the "bad reputation" its recieved when used in the right circumstances.
I can see why some think its rubbish because its has a limited use. Coffins, shutters and laminated substrait sheets (you can get it in a laminated "strip form" 8' x 4' sheet) But the so called bad rep probably comes from people getting some to make some furniture which would make sence as it is an ugly, plain timber.
But for what Mathew needs it would be better than hoop (ive used both for veneering) and the Paulownia its so much lighter and stronger than hoop and when laminated in smaller sections will have almost zero movement.
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