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Thread: tasmanian oak

  1. 28th July 2005, 10:30 AM #31
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    If it's any help, everyone just calls it hardwood 'round here whatever the species.
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!
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  2. 28th July 2005 10:30 AM # ADS
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  3. 28th July 2005, 11:33 AM #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew from AWC
    Still can't figure out your chalk & cheese comment though.
    Andrew, try to be at one with your wood & you too will experience species enlightenment
    It's all in the eye of the beholder, I think the same about red mahogany & grey gum, massive variation to my eye, but 99% of experienced people don't see any difference & reckon I'm full of cwap.
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .
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  4. 28th July 2005, 12:27 PM #33
    Wassy
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    Quote Originally Posted by
    Albert.

    In furniture making particularly bench tops you should never go wider than 150mm in board size as you may get into trouble with bowing, twisting etc
    I am about to make some coffee tables out of radiata, one will be 1200 X 600, I was going to make the top from two 300mm boards, are you suggesting these will be too wide?

    Cheers,
    Mat
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  5. 6th September 2005, 09:20 PM #34
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    Mat,

    Yes I would say 300 is too wide ....
    Albert
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  6. 7th September 2005, 09:28 AM #35
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    I agree - 300 is too wide. Try ripping them into 2 or 3 pieces each, alternating the curve of the grain and then re-glueing.

    Trav

    PS - well dug out Albert!
    Some days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen
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  7. 7th September 2005, 06:52 PM #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wassy
    I am about to make some coffee tables out of radiata, one will be 1200 X 600, I was going to make the top from two 300mm boards, are you suggesting these will be too wide?
    Yes, especially using radiata. If you want the look of pine (each to their own) I wouldn't use boards much wider than 100mm. You might actually be better off getting veneered MDF or chipboard and edging it. You will end up with the same effect, for about the same cost, and have a much more stable surface (ie. no cupping, twisting etc.).
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  8. 1st October 2005, 04:00 PM #37
    Wassy
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    Late replies I missed until now.


    Thanks for the advice.

    Cheers,
    Mat
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  9. 10th July 2007, 08:34 AM #38
    bcinglis
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    Default Colour of Tasmanian Oak

    Hi

    I've just ordered a Tas Oak dining setting. I noticed in the shop and on websites that it seems to go yellowish if it is not stained a colour. I want to avoid the yellowy look, and also don't like shiny finishes much. Does someone have an idea of how to achieve this? Thanks.
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  10. 10th July 2007, 10:00 PM #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    Tassie Oak (the real stuff) has a very close fine grain. It is pink to very dark tan in colour and machines beautifully. Generally has no cell collapse. It is also relatively heavy and dense.
    I alway made sure I selected the ''pink'' stuff when I saw it. Beautiful.
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