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Thread: Which timber to use?
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22nd October 2014, 07:52 PM #1Member
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Which timber to use?
Hi all,
I'm building a post and rail fence to match my house (circa 1903) and was wondering which timber to use. The verandah has 120 x 120 painted hardwood posts of some sort. The fence will be unpainted (to be finished in tung oil I think) so I'm looking for timber that will need to withstand the elements. My local timber supplier recommended tallowwood or blackbutt. However, that recommendation may be just due to supply. The finished size is likely to be 120 x 120 for the posts and 120 x 35 for the rails (approx. 75 metres in total). Just wondering what timber would be the best for durability over time? Also the best place to source. I'm in western Sydney.
Cheers,
Mark
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22nd October 2014 07:52 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd October 2014, 07:59 PM #2
Not sure about supply, but I'll chuck out Ironwood (it's a wide range of "hard" species) or Redgum as options too.
Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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23rd October 2014, 09:06 AM #3Skwair2rownd
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Blackbutt and tallowood?? You got a good bank account??
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23rd October 2014, 09:44 AM #4Intermediate Member
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If the local mill is offering those species chances are that's because its available locally and hence the species most likely used originally. Although from my time in Sydney I don't remember Tallowood being that common in Sydney. Both of those species will last you another 100 years if well built, you are really just choosing the colour/grain you like best.
It also depends if you are using the posts in the round or squared as some species will need to have the sapwood removed to prevent borers. You can check your preferred species for durability, hardness and susceptibility to borers here: http://www.timber.net.au/index.php/species.html
For what its worth I'd also consider bloodwood, White mahogany and spotted gum. Wait for someone with more experience than me to chime in though.
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23rd October 2014, 02:03 PM #5
For outdoor inground use tallowood posts are the go and Blackbutt rails. Untreated Blackbutt post will not last long in the ground due to rot and termites only problem with tallowood is it will react with galvanised fittings and will stain timber.
Tim
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23rd October 2014, 02:10 PM #6
Tallowood. It's durability is why it's used for window sills.
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23rd October 2014, 09:27 PM #7Member
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Thanks for you input guys, much appreciated! I'm leaning towards the tallowwood, although a little worried about the potential staining from gal supports, and possible borer attack. The prices quoted for tallowwood from my local supplier seemed reasonable, however this might be due to a lower grade timber? I'll have a look though before I buy.
Thanks again for your help.
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23rd October 2014, 09:35 PM #8
You could paint the gal bits - it'll make them last longer too.
AFAIK, borers in TW are only a concern for sapwood - maybe do some more research. I reckon TW will leave Blackbutt for dead durability wise. It's also very stable when drying (and you can bet your life you'll be buying green) and doesn't check much on the ends which is what will let the rain into the timber.
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23rd October 2014, 09:57 PM #9Member
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Yep, i was just looking at the link from crowash and searching sapwood v heartwood. I'm sure my supplier would remove the sapwood when dressing. I like the idea of painting though. Some of the gal hardware doesn't look the best anyway. Does anyone know where to buy good quality stirrups, connectors, etc?
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24th October 2014, 08:08 AM #10Senior Member
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Tallow is definitely better in the weather. It's more stable than blackbutt and less likely to check badly. Back when I used to build decks, etc we often found that Sydney blue gum would last better as decking than blackbutt. SBG has a nominally lower durability rating but is more stable, so checks less, so ends up with less water sitting in cracks.
Re gal fittings: blackbutt will also stain those, as will most Aussie hardwoods. Basically, anything that has a substantial tannin content will stain gal. You can tar the surfaces that will touch timber, using plain old blackjack. This makes bolts last a lot longer too. The only catch is you have to be careful to not get tar where you don't want it.
If you don't like tar, it'd probably be possible to do something with a two pack urethane over the gal before assembly. I could see that working.
ETA: Oh and pre-coating things like mortises and tenons (anything that might catch water) is a good plan if durability is your aim.You know you're making progress when there's sawdust in your coffee.
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24th October 2014, 09:30 PM #11Member
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Thanks for that Sumbloak, some things to think about. Much appreciated!
Mark
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