Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default Timber identification

    I bought this from a forum member. He said it's redgum, but I measured the density of it, and it worked out to be 1200kg/m^3, which is not only denser than redgum should be, but exceeds even ironbark according to info on the web.

    They came in lengths of 47*190*2.4m, which is a standard length for construction lumber.

    The only other thing I can describe is that it is hard as a rock, smooth and quite water resistant - even the endgrain. As soon as this piece fell off the blade, there's lustre on the cut faces, without any sanding or planing.

    The end grain doesn't show the growth rings too clearly, but it's the best I can get it - taking a clean shaving with a plane or chisel is impossible... well, I don't have anything sharp enough just this moment anyway, and hand tools may not be feasible altogether for this specimen.

    The length of the longer side in the end grain pic is 47mm.

    Any ideas? Is it redgum that's perhaps denser due to being an older growth, perhaps, or something else entirely?

    I can provide additional pictures, or do whatever else with the wood for additional pictures, if that would help

    1562312996160.JPEG1562312996203.JPEG1562312996250.JPEG

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    66
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    Could be Malaysian Batu, it comes in a yellow to red-brown and very dense, used to be used often on wharf structures/staircases/house roofing in Darwin when I was there in the 90's. Was imported by Bunnings back then so probably was available else where too.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default

    A search for batu returned balau, and it said it doesn't contain silicates, so it can't be it, as this is very siliceous. Also, it says that its density, while high, is below redgum, and significantly below 1200 kg/m^3

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Id be happy to take it back

    It was going to be my workbench for life


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Yoboseyo

    I have hesitated over commenting on this timber primarily because I am poor at identifying timbers, even those I think I should be able to identify. The second problem is that I have been exposed to only a fairly narrow range. The third problem is that identifying timber from pix is frequently difficult. However, the more I look at the timber, the more I think it is Forest Red Gum. The colour isn't quite what I would expect, but that may be down to the lighting for the photography. FRG (E. tereticornis) is quite different to River Red Gum (E. camaldulensis) and ADD is 1050Kg/m3 compared to RRG at 900Kg/m3 so quite a bit heavier and of course there is a degree of variation in such things as well. The insect attack evident in the second pic is very reminiscent of the FRG I have just been using as is the end grain.

    The Grey Ironbark that Lappa has just mentioned is a possibility, but if you have any pieces not docked, look to see how the end grain is checking as the Ironbarks check in squares or rectangles and is one way of differentiating from some other similar timbers and eliminating them. For example it is how I distinguish between Grey Gum and Ironbark as the Grey Gum checks in a star shape from the heart.

    Lastly how confident are you that your timber is the weight you have stated. The error factor with small pieces could explain inconsistency. Very few timbers are up at 1200Kg/m3. Even dry Ironbarks are not there (1090 - 1140 Kg/M3 depending on species). Cooktown Ironwood is listed at 1220Kg/m3 and Gidgee 1330Kg/m3. Bootle's book doesn't list others over 1200Kg/m3. The Eucalypt Boxes, some of the other Acccias (Belah etc), some Mahoganys (Eucalypts) are up there but around the 1100Kg/m3 mark.

    Not much help really

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Id be happy to take it back

    It was going to be my workbench for life

    nah, it was destined to be greater

    anyway, my research leans towards forest red, too. I'm pretty sure I didn't get the maths wrong. I weighed 2 separate pieces. Maybe my scale's off, but it can't be off by 20%

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Yeah, I sold a dud. Send it back

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    66
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yoboseyo View Post
    A search for batu returned balau...
    Same same. MTC Wood Wizard This ref does refer to densities of only up to 1155kg/m3 but the stuff I used to use back in the NT was way harder/heavier. Here is a table I made from 100 year old stair treads (legs from Meranti) and the hardest timber I've ever used. The contractors also using it for the wharf and bridge project I specified it for also used to curse me for it.

    table2.JPG table2a.JPG

    Having said that, the end grain could also pass as an Ironbark/Ironwood
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default

    So, any tips on working with it? I'm planning on building an indestructible dining table out of it. All I know is that it's heavy, hard and siliceous. Grain seems fairly straight, but I wouldn't know for sure until I start working on it. I was going to build a router jig to plane it, and edge joint with a table saw.

    How do I glue it up? It looks fairly water resistant - I'm not sure if glue will penetrate. Do I need dowels or biscuits? How do I finish it? I was keen on hand planing but that looks to be a no go. Do I need a belt sander?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

    Default

    How big is your table going to be? I've done a countertop out of spotted gum which is just under the 1000kg/m3 density and at 2000x600x38mm it is just manageable working alone. Flipping it over is a task and a half. Definitely go with a router sled to flatten. Carbitool have a nice big planer bit if you have a router with speed control - it makes the job a lot faster. Spotted gum is also hard, dense, and has high silica content.

    The finish off the planer bit isn't terrible, so a ROS should be sufficient. The boards are flat coming out of the router sled jig so it's just sanding to prep for finish that is required. The interlocked grain is really difficult to plane without tear out and plane blades/scrapers really take a beating, you'll be sharpening every 10-15 minutes, I'd leave the handtools out of this one.

    For glue up, Titebond II has worked really well for me. I've had bits of s.g. glued up with Titebond II for a few years with no issues. I originally did the counter top with Purbond polyurethane glue. I had gaps appear after a few months of storage of the counter top, but I'm attributing this to user error, first time using it for a major glue up and I think I went for too many boards glued up in one go.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    How big is your table going to be? I've done a countertop out of spotted gum which is just under the 1000kg/m3 density and at 2000x600x38mm it is just manageable working alone. Flipping it over is a task and a half. Definitely go with a router sled to flatten. Carbitool have a nice big planer bit if you have a router with speed control - it makes the job a lot faster. Spotted gum is also hard, dense, and has high silica content.

    The finish off the planer bit isn't terrible, so a ROS should be sufficient. The boards are flat coming out of the router sled jig so it's just sanding to prep for finish that is required. The interlocked grain is really difficult to plane without tear out and plane blades/scrapers really take a beating, you'll be sharpening every 10-15 minutes, I'd leave the handtools out of this one.

    For glue up, Titebond II has worked really well for me. I've had bits of s.g. glued up with Titebond II for a few years with no issues. I originally did the counter top with Purbond polyurethane glue. I had gaps appear after a few months of storage of the counter top, but I'm attributing this to user error, first time using it for a major glue up and I think I went for too many boards glued up in one go.
    thanks!

    the table will be around 2200*1000*35mm (or however thick the boards are after milling). I don't have a router with speed control but I'll use a 1" bit which is within the recommended size for the rpm and take shallow passes.

    do you recommend gluing on one additional board at a time?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

    Default

    The second time I did the glue up, I took my time getting the edges jointed just right with a #6. Glued up in 2 sets, 4 boards and 3 boards, then glued those together. Much less stress and the alignment was pretty good, just a little work with a scraper. It's been a few months since the re glue and no issues I'm happy to say.

Similar Threads

  1. Timber identification
    By Fumbler in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 28th May 2017, 06:02 AM
  2. Help with timber identification
    By breakerboy2000 in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 1st July 2013, 06:15 PM
  3. Timber identification
    By stevemillar in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 21st September 2011, 10:10 PM
  4. Please help with timber identification
    By Denim in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 20th June 2009, 10:50 AM
  5. timber identification
    By treen in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 29th April 2005, 11:41 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •