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Thread: Timber identification
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5th July 2019, 07:07 PM #1Senior Member
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Timber identification
I bought this from a forum member. He said it's redgum, but I measured the density of it, and it worked out to be 1200kg/m^3, which is not only denser than redgum should be, but exceeds even ironbark according to info on the web.
They came in lengths of 47*190*2.4m, which is a standard length for construction lumber.
The only other thing I can describe is that it is hard as a rock, smooth and quite water resistant - even the endgrain. As soon as this piece fell off the blade, there's lustre on the cut faces, without any sanding or planing.
The end grain doesn't show the growth rings too clearly, but it's the best I can get it - taking a clean shaving with a plane or chisel is impossible... well, I don't have anything sharp enough just this moment anyway, and hand tools may not be feasible altogether for this specimen.
The length of the longer side in the end grain pic is 47mm.
Any ideas? Is it redgum that's perhaps denser due to being an older growth, perhaps, or something else entirely?
I can provide additional pictures, or do whatever else with the wood for additional pictures, if that would help
1562312996160.JPEG1562312996203.JPEG1562312996250.JPEG
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5th July 2019 07:07 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th July 2019, 03:53 PM #2
Could be Malaysian Batu, it comes in a yellow to red-brown and very dense, used to be used often on wharf structures/staircases/house roofing in Darwin when I was there in the 90's. Was imported by Bunnings back then so probably was available else where too.
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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6th July 2019, 05:07 PM #3Senior Member
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A search for batu returned balau, and it said it doesn't contain silicates, so it can't be it, as this is very siliceous. Also, it says that its density, while high, is below redgum, and significantly below 1200 kg/m^3
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6th July 2019, 05:20 PM #4
Id be happy to take it back
It was going to be my workbench for life
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6th July 2019, 06:40 PM #5Woodworking mechanic
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What about grey iron bark?
Ironwood Australia - Technical Specifications - Grey Ironbark
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6th July 2019, 07:29 PM #6
Yoboseyo
I have hesitated over commenting on this timber primarily because I am poor at identifying timbers, even those I think I should be able to identify. The second problem is that I have been exposed to only a fairly narrow range. The third problem is that identifying timber from pix is frequently difficult. However, the more I look at the timber, the more I think it is Forest Red Gum. The colour isn't quite what I would expect, but that may be down to the lighting for the photography. FRG (E. tereticornis) is quite different to River Red Gum (E. camaldulensis) and ADD is 1050Kg/m3 compared to RRG at 900Kg/m3 so quite a bit heavier and of course there is a degree of variation in such things as well. The insect attack evident in the second pic is very reminiscent of the FRG I have just been using as is the end grain.
The Grey Ironbark that Lappa has just mentioned is a possibility, but if you have any pieces not docked, look to see how the end grain is checking as the Ironbarks check in squares or rectangles and is one way of differentiating from some other similar timbers and eliminating them. For example it is how I distinguish between Grey Gum and Ironbark as the Grey Gum checks in a star shape from the heart.
Lastly how confident are you that your timber is the weight you have stated. The error factor with small pieces could explain inconsistency. Very few timbers are up at 1200Kg/m3. Even dry Ironbarks are not there (1090 - 1140 Kg/M3 depending on species). Cooktown Ironwood is listed at 1220Kg/m3 and Gidgee 1330Kg/m3. Bootle's book doesn't list others over 1200Kg/m3. The Eucalypt Boxes, some of the other Acccias (Belah etc), some Mahoganys (Eucalypts) are up there but around the 1100Kg/m3 mark.
Not much help really
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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6th July 2019, 07:40 PM #7Senior Member
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7th July 2019, 12:10 AM #8
Yeah, I sold a dud. Send it back
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7th July 2019, 11:35 PM #9
Same same. MTC Wood Wizard This ref does refer to densities of only up to 1155kg/m3 but the stuff I used to use back in the NT was way harder/heavier. Here is a table I made from 100 year old stair treads (legs from Meranti) and the hardest timber I've ever used. The contractors also using it for the wharf and bridge project I specified it for also used to curse me for it.
table2.JPG table2a.JPG
Having said that, the end grain could also pass as an Ironbark/IronwoodNeil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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8th July 2019, 01:15 AM #10Senior Member
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So, any tips on working with it? I'm planning on building an indestructible dining table out of it. All I know is that it's heavy, hard and siliceous. Grain seems fairly straight, but I wouldn't know for sure until I start working on it. I was going to build a router jig to plane it, and edge joint with a table saw.
How do I glue it up? It looks fairly water resistant - I'm not sure if glue will penetrate. Do I need dowels or biscuits? How do I finish it? I was keen on hand planing but that looks to be a no go. Do I need a belt sander?
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11th July 2019, 01:21 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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How big is your table going to be? I've done a countertop out of spotted gum which is just under the 1000kg/m3 density and at 2000x600x38mm it is just manageable working alone. Flipping it over is a task and a half. Definitely go with a router sled to flatten. Carbitool have a nice big planer bit if you have a router with speed control - it makes the job a lot faster. Spotted gum is also hard, dense, and has high silica content.
The finish off the planer bit isn't terrible, so a ROS should be sufficient. The boards are flat coming out of the router sled jig so it's just sanding to prep for finish that is required. The interlocked grain is really difficult to plane without tear out and plane blades/scrapers really take a beating, you'll be sharpening every 10-15 minutes, I'd leave the handtools out of this one.
For glue up, Titebond II has worked really well for me. I've had bits of s.g. glued up with Titebond II for a few years with no issues. I originally did the counter top with Purbond polyurethane glue. I had gaps appear after a few months of storage of the counter top, but I'm attributing this to user error, first time using it for a major glue up and I think I went for too many boards glued up in one go.
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11th July 2019, 04:50 PM #12Senior Member
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thanks!
the table will be around 2200*1000*35mm (or however thick the boards are after milling). I don't have a router with speed control but I'll use a 1" bit which is within the recommended size for the rpm and take shallow passes.
do you recommend gluing on one additional board at a time?
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19th July 2019, 03:11 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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The second time I did the glue up, I took my time getting the edges jointed just right with a #6. Glued up in 2 sets, 4 boards and 3 boards, then glued those together. Much less stress and the alignment was pretty good, just a little work with a scraper. It's been a few months since the re glue and no issues I'm happy to say.
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