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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    7

    Talking Timber for an outdoor model bridge.

    I am aboutto build some model bridges for my railway that will run around the garden. (Picture nice landscaping, waterfall, pond and ricks and me with a beer in one hand and a train controller in the other)

    Thing is, the bridges will be around 1 metre long, 20 cm high and wide. Made from strips of wood a cm wide x 2 cm thick on average.

    What I am looking for is a type of wood that I can perhaps epoxy resin together, drill and tap some nails for extra strength and stain to protect the wood.

    But, what wood? I have considered H3 pine and Tassy Oak? my concerns are the wood splitting or being to soft? but don't know whether these would be affected.

    Does anyone have any ideas?


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    172

    Post

    Hi There,
    I think the questions your want to ask yourself is what sort of life expectancy, maintenance and look you want for your bridge.

    I would steer away from any Radiata pine even treated in any way, I would look at a hardwood that would be more durable and have a more realistic look too.

    You can maintain it via some some hard coating pu varnish etc.. or just with oil, but in any way you will have to recoat it regularly. The other option is to let it go "grey" but it will certainly have a shorter life time. My guess is that the easiest mainenaince would be to put a coat of oil probably every 6 month if you want to keep a nice look.

    The assembly/fixing is a bit more critical, imho whichever timber glue and finish you use if your bridge is straight in the rain and sun, it is just a matter of time till it falls appart. I would look at having timber to timber joints eg:mini motices etc.. or nails or small stainless steel bolts like M3 M4 or off course a combination.

    Regarding the timber, I would probably pick a highly durable, stable and readily avalaible timber like Merbau (also called Kwila) which is H2 if I memory serves right or a softer timber (and much easier to work) also very stable like Cedar.
    For the small quantities you are looking at you can find Cerad in any respectable hardware shop and probably can use decking for Merbau. (If you still want to use glue, be wary that Merbau does not glue very well)

    This looks like a nice project, post some photos when you are done.

    Hope that helps

    Jack

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    7

    Post

    Thanks for the reply Jack, definatley helps.
    I will look into trying Merbau now.

    Regards

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Smile

    If you want some durability and some authenticity to boot see if you can get hold of some tallowwood.
    Once much valued for jetty piles & bridge piers.
    Great exposed to all eliments and nothing much seems to like eating it.
    Greasy yep but thats where it gets its durability from.
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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