Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default Timber window frame - thoughts on KDHW and other species?

    Hi folks,

    My chippy is building a new gable for my house and has advised he can build window frames as part of the process, as long as I supply an appropriate timber. The windows are trapezoid and triangle in shape, but will only be fixed glass.

    Has anyone used the DAR KDHW from Bowens (reveals and glazing beads) for this purpose? Would it be better trying to source cedar? I don't mind painting the KDHW if it'll do the job.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Richard

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default



    Sketch for reference.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,354

    Default

    Provided the frames are constructed correctly KDHW shouldn't be a problem. When working at the joinery we made a number of doors, windows and frames from asstd. HWs, inc. Vic Ash, Blue Gum and Spotted Gum.

    I would recommend painting the whole frame, inside & out, before glazing and/or installing. Ditto for the reveals & beads. Even after this I strongly recommend a final coat of paint externally after all is in place.

    If your chippy has a workshop with jointer & thicknesser where he can mill the timber to final sizes, then all should be good.

    If, on the other hand, you're hoping to buy the DAR at close on final sizes, then I wish you luck. I don't know what Bowen's DAR is like, I suspect that like many Bunnies how it's stored is dependant on individual mgrs. and all too often their DAR is warped, cupped, bowed or twisted. The stuff of nightmares to try and wrestle into a quality frame.

    Be very, very careful in selecting your pieces and load them up yourself for immediate takeaway; don't just place a bulk order and expect quality stuff delivered to your door. That's a sure way to a headache.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,551

    Default

    Hardwood for windows? No thanks. Too much movement, too much checking, too much weight.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,357

    Default

    Nothing wrong with using the blue primed treated pine
    it will be cheaper to buy and to fabricate, you can get the rebated jamb section and a glazing bead and away you go

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Nothing wrong with using the blue primed treated pine
    it will be cheaper to buy and to fabricate, you can get the rebated jamb section and a glazing bead and away you go
    Thanks Beardy, that’s an idea - from where would I source this stuff?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    Provided the frames are constructed correctly KDHW shouldn't be a problem. When working at the joinery we made a number of doors, windows and frames from asstd. HWs, inc. Vic Ash, Blue Gum and Spotted Gum.

    I would recommend painting the whole frame, inside & out, before glazing and/or installing. Ditto for the reveals & beads. Even after this I strongly recommend a final coat of paint externally after all is in place.

    If your chippy has a workshop with jointer & thicknesser where he can mill the timber to final sizes, then all should be good.

    If, on the other hand, you're hoping to buy the DAR at close on final sizes, then I wish you luck. I don't know what Bowen's DAR is like, I suspect that like many Bunnies how it's stored is dependant on individual mgrs. and all too often their DAR is warped, cupped, bowed or twisted. The stuff of nightmares to try and wrestle into a quality frame.

    Be very, very careful in selecting your pieces and load them up yourself for immediate takeaway; don't just place a bulk order and expect quality stuff delivered to your door. That's a sure way to a headache.
    Thanks for the tips. I have a thicky myself but no power or space to use it, hence relying on someone else’s dressing capabilities.

    I’d be checking everything thrice if I purchase pre-dressed stuff.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Hardwood for windows? No thanks. Too much movement, too much checking, too much weight.
    A lot of window manufacturers out there don’t agree with you! What would you use instead - besides cedar?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,357

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by railer View Post
    Thanks Beardy, that’s an idea - from where would I source this stuff?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It is a very commonly used product that most timber yards will carry , Bun Buns have it too, this is the pink primed version https://www.bunnings.com.au/140-x-31...-jamb_p0052902 but there is another brand they carry that is light blue.

    It is the same material that they do your fascia and barge boards with

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    33
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Bowens will be able to source it for you. Most of their stores probably even stock it in standard sizes, ask for L.O.S.P.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,551

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by railer View Post
    A lot of window manufacturers out there don’t agree with you! What would you use instead - besides cedar?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It's not the window manufacturers decision, it's yours. If you are happy with overweight windows with a propensity to open in the joints, crack on planed faces and require copious painting be my guest.
    What would I use? In order of choice: Australian red cedar, Californian red wood, Western red cedar, Crows ash, Silky oak. And then there is aluminium.
    In situations where a window frame becomes a structural member, requiring strength, I understand the use of hardwood.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Just to update any interested parties - decided on that H3 LOSP pine for the frames; it's almost as expensive as cedar but it'll be painted so the finish doesn't matter.

    Now just to figure out how to cut 60° without having to hand-saw...

Similar Threads

  1. Timber window frame construction advice.
    By Plane sailing in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 8th July 2011, 01:26 AM
  2. Sealing timber window and door frame
    By Reno RSS Feed in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETC
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 30th March 2010, 12:40 PM
  3. which timber for louver window frame
    By Reno RSS Feed in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETC
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 15th February 2010, 02:10 PM
  4. Window frame timber 1910
    By GTHO in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 14th September 2009, 09:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •