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  1. #1
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    Default Timbers suitable for outdoor furniture

    Hi all

    New to the forum and new to woodworking itself with a small amount of prior experience.

    I am currently in the planning and designing stages of an outdoor table. As such, I was wanting to get opinions on some good timbers that are suited to outdoor furniture?

    Also, any tips on finishing timbers would be greatly appreciated.

    Apologies if this topic comes up quite often in the forum.

    Cheers

    Dan

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  3. #2
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    If I were to do one for myself i would be choosing a nice hardwood such as Ironbark or some thing similar, having said that it will turn to a grey colour in the sunlight and I don't think that there is anything that will stop that from happening. I am not sure if there are any timbers that will not change colour but would be happy to know if there are myself. I used to know a guy who had a business of building tables out of pine, once finished they would scorch the surface with a propane torch and then rub it down with some sort of wire brush. I lost track of him many years ago so not sure how they stood the test of time.

  4. #3
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    Are we talking outdoor outdoor or outdoor undercover?

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed.. View Post
    If I were to do one for myself i would be choosing a nice hardwood such as Ironbark or some thing similar, having said that it will turn to a grey colour in the sunlight and I don't think that there is anything that will stop that from happening. I am not sure if there are any timbers that will not change colour but would be happy to know if there are myself. I used to know a guy who had a business of building tables out of pine, once finished they would scorch the surface with a propane torch and then rub it down with some sort of wire brush. I lost track of him many years ago so not sure how they stood the test of time.
    They do that on hardwood cladding
    google Hurford’s Shou Sugi Ban for details

  6. #5
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    What's your budget and what tools/machinery do you have available?

    Many of the native hardwoods suitable for outdoor furniture are very hard (not to mention kinda pricey)

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    What's your budget and what tools/machinery do you have available?

    Many of the native hardwoods suitable for outdoor furniture are very hard (not to mention kinda pricey)
    Also watching this thread with interest, and keen to find out recommendations as well, especially given the above information

  8. #7
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    As a beginner, I'd recommend you stick with common, easily available timbers.

    Have a wander thru your local building supplier (wholesalers are better, but Bunnies or Mitre-10 will do, albeit with a limited range) and see what they have available for decking material. My recommendation would be to select a naturally oily timber, such as Merbau.

    BTW, I'm not suggesting you use decking boards, merely to use them as a guide as to A) what's suitable for outdoors and to B) see what they carry in stock. While you're in there you can buy a short length of whatever you select to take home and see how it machines, if you'd like to try before you buy bulk.

    As has already been said, eventually all timbers will weather to grey so I'd ignore the "flashier" timbers, such as Purpleheart, should they stock those. Unless you plan a rigorous maintenance regime to keep the finish looking halfway decent...

    Oh... yeah... Also, as you want "furniture grade" rather than just construction grade, when it comes time to buy I heartily recommend that you drive in with a trailer, hand-pick the pieces you want (keeping an eye on defects, grain, colour, etc.) and load them up yourself. Seriously! It can save you some headaches...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #8
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    As the others have said, things that are critical before offering proper advice:
    what exposure to weather?
    what tools available for processing?
    what budget?
    will it be regularly maintained?

    Tallow Wood is naturally greasy and very durable (used for window sills et al). It is usually very featureless and a bland colour, so could be good for the supporting structure. Hard and heavy. It can leach brown tannins out. If painting it use two coats of a very good quality timber primer to mitigate tannin leaching.

    Best idea for the undercarriage is to paint it - nobody looks at it anyway, the top gets all the glory. If you do this, then pre-paint the components with at least two coats and then a final coat once assembled. You could also use treated pine for the undercarriage if you decide to paint it.

    Australian Cypress is fairly soft (by our standards) but has an out-of-ground life of around 40 years, and is a very attractive timber IMO. Easy to work but don't try to nail it without pre-drilling unless it's pretty green. Smells wonderful when cut too.

    The table top will get by far the most exposure to the elements, and may have water lying on it for...well, days.

    Using Sikaflex Pro in the joints will keep moisture out of them, and that is the prime cause of rot (timber + timber + water = rot). Furthermore, any exposed end grain will also benefit from a decent smear of Sika over it with a putty knife or paint scraper (particularly legs contacting ground). Sika can be sanded and/or painted after about a week or so (when it stops being tacky to touch).

    We all love a WIP, so don't be scared to start one on here (separate thread). Advice along the way is incredibly valuable.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  10. #9
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    Sequoia (Californian Redwood.) Light, easy to work, weather resistant and highly figured grain.

  11. #10
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    Red Cedar or Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Both will endure the elements.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  12. #11
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    It would be outdoor undercover.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    What's your budget and what tools/machinery do you have available?

    Many of the native hardwoods suitable for outdoor furniture are very hard (not to mention kinda pricey)
    Hi Elan

    In terms of budget, i'd be happy to spend approx $400 to $700 on timber
    In terms of tools/machinery i will only have basics (circular saw, chisels, mallets, clamps, measuring and marking tools, router, may get a biscuit joiner, etc.) as i'm setting out as a beginner (therefore i wont have access to jointers or planers etc.)

    I am potentially swaying towards using it as an indoor table. i quite like the oaks, blackbutt, walnut, however am definitely open to any suggestions and hints/tips.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    As the others have said, things that are critical before offering proper advice:
    what exposure to weather?
    what tools available for processing?
    what budget?
    will it be regularly maintained?

    Tallow Wood is naturally greasy and very durable (used for window sills et al). It is usually very featureless and a bland colour, so could be good for the supporting structure. Hard and heavy. It can leach brown tannins out. If painting it use two coats of a very good quality timber primer to mitigate tannin leaching.

    Best idea for the undercarriage is to paint it - nobody looks at it anyway, the top gets all the glory. If you do this, then pre-paint the components with at least two coats and then a final coat once assembled. You could also use treated pine for the undercarriage if you decide to paint it.

    Australian Cypress is fairly soft (by our standards) but has an out-of-ground life of around 40 years, and is a very attractive timber IMO. Easy to work but don't try to nail it without pre-drilling unless it's pretty green. Smells wonderful when cut too.

    The table top will get by far the most exposure to the elements, and may have water lying on it for...well, days.

    Using Sikaflex Pro in the joints will keep moisture out of them, and that is the prime cause of rot (timber + timber + water = rot). Furthermore, any exposed end grain will also benefit from a decent smear of Sika over it with a putty knife or paint scraper (particularly legs contacting ground). Sika can be sanded and/or painted after about a week or so (when it stops being tacky to touch).

    We all love a WIP, so don't be scared to start one on here (separate thread). Advice along the way is incredibly valuable.
    Hi Fence Furniture

    As mentioned in my repsonse to Elan:

    - In terms of budget, i'd be happy to spend approx $400 to $700 on timber. Further, this will be a present for my partner for her upcoming birthday later this year and as such, id like to use an aesthetically pleasing timber that will also stand the test of time. i love the look of the oaks and walnut, however if there are other timbers or even different finishes i can apply to get something similar to that look, id be happy to hear any thoughts.
    - In terms of tools/machinery i will only have basics (circular saw, chisels, mallets, clamps, measuring and marking tools, router, may get a biscuit joiner, etc.) as i'm setting out as a beginner (therefore i wont have access to jointers or planers etc.)
    - For exposure to weather, it will be outside however will be undercover. i am potentially toying with making it an indoor table pending responses from you all.
    - i am looking to invest a fair bit of my time into this project to ensure i get a good quality outcome and as such will be happy to put the time in maintaining the table over time.

    Thank you for all of your other tips as well, pending which direction i end up going ill keep them in mind.

    Also, ill definitely start a WIP thread as im sure i will get great advice and feedback from everyone on here and ill definitely need some as i go along.

  15. #14
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    My advice would be to start with a good drawing and design your table with commonly available sizes or sizes that are easily machined from larger sizes. This will greatly help with costs and waste. You can also prepare a timber list and have it quoted. Your budget is quite low for furniture grade timber so a quote straight of the bat may provide some insight in to whether or not it's worth pursuing.

    If you dont have a jointer then you may want to look at building a router planing jig to ensure you get nice flat and square pieces of timber or purchase your timber through a dedicated timber yard with machining capabilities and ask that they prepare an edge and face for you.

    This could be a tricky project without a table saw.

  16. #15
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    WARNING: You will not like the following post.

    I've done some hunting around for timber prices and your budget will get you enough 140x32mm dressed Vic Ash for a top (2.4 x 1.1m), if you stretch it to about $900 you can have a base as well. Buying rough sawn timber will lower the cost, but you'd have to dress it by hand or with a router sled (or pay someone to dress it, which would put the price back up). Allow around $100 for glue, dowels, sandpaper and other consumables, $200ish for a finish and the same again for a (very) basic sliding mitre saw if you don't already have one (the saw is not mandatory, but it will make cutting things to length and square much easier and you'll want one eventually anyway).

    Yes, I am trying to scare you off a little because I really don't think a dining table is a wise project for a beginner. Perhaps start with something smaller like a coffee table or hall table; the construction principles are the same, the size will be more suitable to the equipment you have and any mistakes will be easier and less costly to fix.

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