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  1. #1
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    Default Wendy's Bull Oak

    Last week at the get together at FunkyChicken's place Flynnsart donated a small log of Bull Oak. I took it home to slice up some small boards for Wendy to make boxes out of. It took a while to get my bandsaw working properly , the wood was hard and the blade was already dull, so I'll keep the less uniform ones . Here are the best 6, all 18-20mm thick, 100-150mm wide and around 500 long (half original log length.



    and a close up of the best board, wet with water to show the grain.



    I'll bring them along at the next get together Wendy, or at the WWW show. They are all pretty well dry, but I sealed the ends anyway.

    I'll expect a threat on a beautiful box in the future - with dovetails!

    Cheers
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

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  3. #2
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    Question Wendy's bored?

    Oh! Sorry _board!
    Yummy!!

  4. #3
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    Jun 2007
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    Toowoomba, Qld
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    Default

    Good work Neil

    Did you use a jig type thing on the Bandsaw?

    I have a bulloak log from derekh that I'll be turning into box timber... Just don't know how I'll do that with my BS outta action....

  5. #4
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    Dec 2007
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    Gold Coast
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    Neil.

    What do you mean your bandsaw blade was dull. I knew I stuffed it when I bought over that log to cut, but I slipped you enough to buy a new one.

    Don't tell me you have dulled the new one too. How long do these blades last.

    Gee, this is an expensive hobby, I might be better off getting another greyhound, I thought that hobby was expensive enough with a dog that can't run. Guess I have got to get up to speed myself, real quick.

  6. #5
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    Jun 2007
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    Default

    Looks good Neil, I just love the grain of bull-oak, hairy-oak etc. With several thousand bull-oak on my place, I should go into business. I just need a sharp bandsaw ... Funky, I hope my stuff looks as good for you when it's cut. It's a shame the stuff wants to crack so easily and randomly. cheers Derek

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Toowoomba Q 4350
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    9,217

    Default

    Wow - look at that grain. Of course the challenge will be to have sharp chisels ready for the dovetails and to make a box as neat as Donna's little bulloak box

    thanks Neil.

    Now to think up a design....

    cheers
    Wendy

    PS DerekH - Not a bad idea at all!

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by funkychicken View Post
    ...Did you use a jig type thing on the Bandsaw?
    I made a jig with a point out of timber for taking slices, but it isn't big enough for logs. I just used my fence and allowed for drift, unfortunately when the blade loses its edge, the drift gets worse and worse In fact it got so bad it caught my clearance insert with a bang

    Quote Originally Posted by funkychicken View Post
    ..I have a bulloak log from derekh that I'll be turning into box timber... Just don't know how I'll do that with my BS outta action....
    How did you go looking at the lower wheel, was the key there, and does moving the wheel over solve your problem?

    If your Bull Oak is as dry as this bit, you will need a few blades for your bandsaw, I was using a 1" (25m) blade on mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by STAR View Post
    ...Don't tell me you have dulled the new one too. How long do these blades last.
    It's the new one that is dull, or should I say, now blunt. It was a high quality one too. It had already done about 4m of 100-200mm Rose Sheoak (with some dirty bits) and 2.5m of 130mm Hairy Oak, and all dry and hard .

    Nothing is really free with this hobby, even free wood costs in blades and time . Makes you appreciate the costs of timber from suppliers.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  9. #8
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    Dec 2005
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    Default

    Hope I'm not telling you how to suck eggs here Neil, but I got sick of coughing up for blades that lasted just minutes on timber like you're cutting and got a 1.3 TPI, 25mm bi-metal blade from Henry Bros and never looked back. Got so much use out of the first one that after about 8 sharpenings with the dremel/chainsaw stone it eventually just cracked from pure metal fatigue. They cost about twice as much to buy but outlast normal blades many times over - well worth the investment if your saw is big enough to handle them. (Mine is a 2HP, 16" - blade 2950mm long)
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  10. #9
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    Default

    This one was a bi-metal, not sure about tpi, but the teeth are big and yes worth a lot more. I thought I was doing well to get ~10m of cutting rock

    I assume you are saying you sharpen your own? Interesting thought and certainly sparks my interest. You mention chainsaw stone, are you talking about those little round ones? Do you not worry about resetting the teeth?
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  11. #10
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    Brookfield, Brisbane
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    Default

    bull oak is not that hard to cut if you remove the bark first as it is full of dirt and verry grippy.

    it is a nice timber if only you could stop the logs sliting.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  12. #11
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    I tried sharpening one of those henry bro's blades with a die grinder and a chain saw stone .
    the problem is the backing metal cuts so much easier than the hard tooth metal.

    If you are going to sharpen those you will need some sort of jig to controll the stone & keep it cuttin on the front of the tooth.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    This one was a bi-metal, not sure about tpi, but the teeth are big and yes worth a lot more. I thought I was doing well to get ~10m of cutting rock

    I assume you are saying you sharpen your own? Interesting thought and certainly sparks my interest. You mention chainsaw stone, are you talking about those little round ones? Do you not worry about resetting the teeth?
    If you mean 10 cubic metres I'd have to agree!!! The little round chainsaw-stones come in all standard chain sizes - the Dremel kit comes with the main 3 sizes. I use the 5/32" but it's not that crucial for my method. Never seen the need to reset the teeth - bit of a touch up and it cut's like new every time

    Quote Originally Posted by soundman View Post
    I tried sharpening one of those henry bro's blades with a die grinder and a chain saw stone .
    the problem is the backing metal cuts so much easier than the hard tooth metal.

    If you are going to sharpen those you will need some sort of jig to controll the stone & keep it cuttin on the front of the tooth.

    cheers
    Had a bit of a problem with that myself to start with until I discovered a way to use the blade itself as the jig. I was starting to get too much hook and it was grabbing the work real scary-like.
    After wasting a 1/2 hour trying to describe how I do it I decided it would be easier to take a pic
    Keeping in mind that you're only touching up a poofteenth of the point, using the gullet as the guide doesn't do any harm and keeps the stone square and secure on the tooth - works for me!
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  14. #13
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    Default

    i cut this one up last week.
    love the stuff

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  15. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by weisyboy View Post
    bull oak is not that hard to cut if you remove the bark first as it is full of dirt and verry grippy.

    it is a nice timber if only you could stop the logs sliting.
    This stuff had been long dead, no bark and very hard

    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    If you mean 10 cubic metres I'd have to agree!!! The little round chainsaw-stones come in all standard chain sizes - the Dremel kit comes with the main 3 sizes. I use the 5/32" but it's not that crucial for my method. Never seen the need to reset the teeth - bit of a touch up and it cut's like new every time
    I did mean 10m linear cut length (and an average of 150mm thick), but all very dry, hard and the Rose Sheoak was also a bit dirty from the white ants in the middle.

    I've been looking at something like this, cool video, but might give the chainsaw stones a go since they are only $4 here, although this time I think I also need to reset. When the drift went way out, the blade caught the insert , and I pretty sure I bent a few teeth
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  16. #15
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    Thumbs up The boy's oak

    That is far too good for you Carl! send it to me!!

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