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Thread: Slash pine/blue stain
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8th November 2008, 11:15 AM #1
Slash pine/blue stain
Could anyone tell me...how long could I leave slash pine logs before they start developing blue stain? Would they be okay for a couple of weeks? Trees aren't cut yet (four, up to 1m diam)
Rusty
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8th November 2008, 03:39 PM #2
JB, with any of the pines it is better to get into them as soon as you can.
What are you wanting from the pines? slabs or boards?
Although having said this my last lot of studs where milled 5 weeks after being felled and they where still alright.
hope it helpsI love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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9th November 2008, 10:18 AM #3
thanks sigidi. Trees probably aren't available now, but checked out your site and notice you're just up the road from me. May be in touch re slabbing one day...
Rusty
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9th November 2008, 11:05 AM #4
Hylite 80 Anti-sapstain works well but it is not cheap to get started.
Once it is mixed it works out at about 15 cents a litre but you have to buy about $600 worth as a minimum buy.
More info here..... http://www.osmose.com.au/Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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9th November 2008, 12:15 PM #5
JB too easy mate.
Here's a little teaser of some hoop I did last week, a freebie, fella didn't want it, so I gave it a new home.
I've got a day/maybe two, cutting at Doonan/Eumundi way a week on Tuesday if you're around?I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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9th November 2008, 02:36 PM #6
as strong mix of bleach and watter sprayed/hosed over the sawn timber stops the blue stain.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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9th November 2008, 08:25 PM #7I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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9th November 2008, 11:30 PM #8
I didn't buy it, the bloke who cut up my Hoop Pine did.
He bought a 20L drum for about $600.
He is coming up tomorrow arvo to pick up the cut timber so I'll ask him if he will sell a bit.
It won't stop the blue stain inside the wood once is has started, the idea is to not allow the fungus to take hold in the first place.
Apart from not treating the ends of the cut logs straight away, the other mistake that the bloke made was that even though he treated the cut planks, he left the stack in to open under a tarp for several weeks & there was a lot of condensation under the tarp so some of it still went mouldy.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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10th November 2008, 12:01 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I don't know whether the mould you are talking about is the same as the plain vanilla blue mould we have here, but vinegar kills this one if it is on the surface. Don't know whether it will work if the spores are really ingrained, but vinegar should also soak through, shouldn't it?
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10th November 2008, 02:23 PM #10
JB
The blue stain is a fungus attack and just how quickly and thoroughly it attacks your timber depends on the prevalence of the fungus in your area, the humidity, the temperature, the wind, the type of timber and the species of fungus. Some fungi attack only one type of tree, some attack several species.
Once you have the fungi in your wood it is impossible to remove; treatments such as vinegar and bleaching only affect the surface. Sometimes the fungi can be an asset - the dark colour in premium Tasmanian blackheart sassafrass is a fungus!
When I worked timber in PNG we used to treat high value trees, including experimental balsa, with a fungicide injection about 6-8 weeks before felling. They and all other trees were then run through the mill as quickly as possible after felling; at the end of the saw line they were dipped in fungicide and insecticide (CCA or similar), and then wrapped in plastic to facilitate penetration. When fungus was active without treatment we would get blue stains within 2-3 days, at other times of the year nothing developed in three months.
I suggest that you treat your timber with a good quality fungicide as quickly as possible. Tributynal tin (TBT) based ones are generally considered best.
Cheers
Graeme
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