Thread: Problem with 235mm Triton Circular Saw TA235CSL

I have a similar "problem" -- I can see a small amount of sideways wobble on the blade. But when the saw is running, you'd need to push awfully fast to not get the whole circumference of the blade over the whole of the cut. The only effect I've noticed -- apart from having to turn the blade a whole turn when setting the zero point for the fence -- is that my kerfs are a little wider than 2.8 mm; they are as near as dammit 3mm.

So maybe you just need to fiddle with the zero position a bit, to make sure that the blade is parallel to the fence "on average" over a whole turn.

- Michael

One way of trying to seperate between a blade and arbor problem it to use a texta.

identify the most extreme tooth, either closest to or furthest from the fence and mark it.

Loosen the blade and turn it 1/4 turn, relative to the arbor, then test again.

If the same tooth is still the most extreme, then there is a high chance it is the blade.

If the problem is a 1/4 moved, could be the mounting, flange or arbour.

You can test for wobble or poor blade by cross cutting into a scrap and turning the power off once you are in. Then use a set of calipers if you have them to check the width of the kerf. If the kerf is more than .2mm thicker than he thickness of the blade, keep checking things. If it is .2mm or less thicker than the blade, you are within tollerance.

These tollerances are for the TSA001. Not sure what they are for the smaller saw,or the new models which are made in a different factory.

The shape of the scarring on your timber should also give you an indication to the cause of your problem. If it is predominantly in one direction only, you have an alignment problem. If you have deep marks in both directions on both the scrap and good bit, you have wobble or a warp. If you have deep scarring in both directions on only one piece of timber, you may have a bent tooth.

FWIW

Steve

Originally Posted by ToothFairy

I have a similar "problem" -- I can see a small amount of sideways wobble on the blade. But when the saw is running, you'd need to push awfully fast to not get the whole circumference of the blade over the whole of the cut. The only effect I've noticed -- apart from having to turn the blade a whole turn when setting the zero point for the fence -- is that my kerfs are a little wider than 2.8 mm; they are as near as dammit 3mm.

So maybe you just need to fiddle with the zero position a bit, to make sure that the blade is parallel to the fence "on average" over a whole turn.

- Michael

Thanks for the response Michael. I fiddled with the zero position and went through the whole alignment process again as per you advice so that the most extreme part of the blade over the wobbly rotation was only just touching the fence. I really spent a long time making sure the blade was parrallel to the fence and also fine tuning the blade angle to ensure it was perfectly perpedicular to the table. I can now set the fence and the cut timber matches the fence setting.

I still have a problem with the finish of the cut which is still quite scratchy. Plus the offcut is getting burnt with strange recut damage but the workpiece is not. There is also a tendency for the saw to pull the timber away from the fence (even with featherboard in place) and I have to be very careful to ensure the workpiece is held firmly against the fence to ensure accuracy. This is almost impossible when making narrow cuts so I am getting no accuracy with these.

This saw has been a massive dissapointment and I was getting far better accuracy with my little 7 1/4 inch makita saw in the workcentre (although getting the blade angle right on this saw was always a pain in the ???? and one of the main reasons for the switch to the triton saw).

Overall I have been pretty disappointed with the workcentre and its level of accuracy and am really wishing I did a bit more research before buying it. I have spent around $800 on it (plus an extra $185 if you count the makita saw) which is getting close to prices for an entry level cabinet saw.

Hi,

I recently ressurected an old triton saw bench.It had an all metal skillshare 185mm saw fitted.It had a new blade and looked like it hadn't been used.It was tucked away in the shadows of a shed at this new place im working at.Someone told me it didnt cut straight and scratched the face badly.I checked the mountings and alinged the blade parralel with the fence.All looked ok.I did a small cut on pine and noticed the scratching.I up ended the table and what i discovered was slight movement in the mountings.I figured that the thrust of the saw when cutting made it move slightly in the mounting and crab into the timber.Its hard to see this until actualy cutting and looking underneath.Feeling the saw when stationary wont imitate the thrust of the blade while cutting.I refitted the saw.i made a couple of heavy brkts and fitted them to the carriage and mounted them to the frame of the table.After re-allining the blade to the fence ran a few more cuts.For a dinosaur it now cuts perfectly.Actually as good a cut as ive seen from this type of equiptment.It cuts perfectly and comes of the table the same thickness both ends.I would recommend all triton operators to check this.
Cheers and good luck
Squabex...