Thread: Advice please - do I need a router lifter with the big Triton router?

I think the simple answer is no !
A router lift is a bit of a luxury,if money is no object then have one but not essential in my opinion
My router table and router combo works out at about $ 1600 more than enough so I don't think I need to spend another 400-500 on a router lifter.
Adjusting the height of the router is only a slight inconvenience but you can live owth it and get it set it where you want it to be without too much trouble.

Provided you have a hole in your router insert plate for the winder on your Triton you should be fine.

I have my Triton MOF001 mounted on a Kreg insert mounted in a home made router table. My only grumble with the Triton lifter is that it vibrates and screws itself down when using larger diameter router bits. This means that when you release the lock to adjust the router up for a deeper cut, it actually drops.
I've got into the habit of using the spring loaded plunge set after setting the initial cut height, to set a that height point so I can lift the router back after the drop, then adjust up for a deeper cut. I then reset the spring loaded plunge set then route again, etc, etc, but it's a pain.
I spoke to the guys at the men's' shed as they have Tritons mounted like mine and they said " yep, that's what they all do - we just put up with it".
I looked at lifts but couldn't justify the cost

I have the TRA001, mounted to an alloy plate. It works just fine without a lift, as discussed above, the adjuster does wind down when using it, but it is easy to deal with, before I release it to adjust I use the winder to bring it back up snug. You have to remove the plunge spring when using it in a table. It is my understanding that the Kreg plate is drilled for the smaller models, my plate was blank so I marked it out and drilled it. I considered a dedicated lift, but the cost was prohibitive at the time (and still is now). I use a small Wixy digital height gauge each time I set it and it has become habit. So the short answer is no, you don't need a lift, but needing and wanting are two different things

My triton is mounted under a woodpecker plate and I use the the triton height adjuster through the plate. I think the system works pretty well.

[QUOTE=no, you don't need a lift, but needing and wanting are two different things [/QUOTE]

I know what you mean. Tool-lust and need are very different. I was offered a second-hand Woodpecker lift for $600. That cured the lust in a hurry. There has to be value as well. My time woodworking is limited so I do need to minimise muck-around/set-up time BUT the options have to be affordable too.

Are you familiar with the Kreg plate as a comparison? I am not so have little idea of the comparison.

I have seen the Kreg plate, it basically looks the same. Comments on this forum suggest that the pre-drilled hole does not align on the TRA001 but does fit the smaller models. Drilling the plate is no big deal, you can use the Triton baseplate as a template as it has and indent for the cutout. Drill a small 1/8th hole first and then increase until your winder is a snug fit, use a drill press if you can, and check for alignment before you make the initial hole larger. If you are mounting it into a shop made top, you just need to check the corner radius and get a matching router bit. You can then use a four sided jig and a guide, or a flush trim bit with the bearing mounted closest to the shaft. I used a guide, checked for correct size on some scrap mdf and then made the cut on the tabletop when I was happy with the size. I only cut the depth of the plate and ran one cut around the template, then I used a jigsaw to take out the centre. It was the first time I had used a guide, and had not picked up a router for twenty years, so don't let it scare you. MDF is cheap and you can practice lots before attacking the final top for under $20.

have a look at this https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/kreg-triton-router-plate-insert-holes-matching-200050

David,

I've got a TRA-001 mounted in a router table - have had it that way for a few years now.

In my opinion, there are two issues with using the Triton Routers (the ones that have the above table height adjustment feature)in a router table:

1) As mentioned above, the height adjustment knob tends to move as a result of vibration during use, although this does not result in the bit height changing during use. I've managed to stop the vibration causing the height adjustment knob to move in use, by removing the knob and fitting a felt washer on the shaft below the knob.. This mod adds just enough friction to the height adjustment knob to prevent it moving under vibration. But, not enough friction to make the movement stiff when adjusting the bit height.

2) I sometimes find that when setting up the bit height, that the Triton's above table adjustment can be too course, which makes it more of a challenge to get the exact height that you're after.

I intentionally chose the word "issues" in the above paragraphs. The issues are just characteristics that make the Triton mounted directly to a router plate just a little harder to use than a Triton mounted in a Router Lift. As the router lifts are generally pretty expensive nits of kit, I decided to make do with the Triton TRA-001's issues.

I hope that info helps.

Regards,

RoyG

Don't even think of buying a router lift for the Triton - it would be a complete waste of money. Add to that the fact that it would render the eminently-useful above-the-table bit-changing function totally inoperable. The router's built-in height adjuster is perfectly accurate and workable, it just requires practice and knowledge of the machine.

It is ESSENTIAL to remove the plunge spring (all of 20 seconds' work) for table use. You can (should, really) leave the plunge spring cap off while using inverted, it allows any debris to fall straight through. Once the plunge spring is removed, the action of winding the router up and down is much easier, as it only has gravity to overcome. The rack-and-pinion winding mechanism is easy to use for coarse height adjustment via the right-hand machine handle.

The fine adjustment - operated either directly from below, or via the handle - is great for hitting the exact height (depth, really, but we're inverted), although I've found that it's easier to use the coarse adjuster to go slightly too high, then back down with the fine adjuster. Once the exact height is reached, I use the thumb lock to secure the depth (feels odd at first as it needs pushing up, not down - and don't forget to release the lock before attempting to wind the bit up or down afterwards!

HTH

Ray

Originally Posted by safari

My triton is mounted under a woodpecker plate and I use the the triton height adjuster through the plate. I think the system works pretty well.

Hi David

I have the TRA001 mounted on the Kreg plate which is pre drilled for the Triton router. You do not need the lifter! The clutch winder is easily operated and the micro adjuster can be accessed through the table winder (also pre drilled).