Thread: alignement or something else ? urgent help

Hello all
I recently bought a Triton 2000 and Triton saw (and router, router table, dust bucket, ...) I know what you're talking about here. I tend to be a bit particular when doing things, and really took my time with the setup. I was going fine up to the point when I had to check the saw blade to the allignment of the guide behind the blade. If you get 2 straight edges either side of the blade etc they should not touch the guide. But mine did, badly - more than 1 mm. So I went back a step and checked the zero adjustment - set the fence to 0 mm and adjust the blade so it slightly brushes against the fence. Checked again - it was out. The assembly video explains that if you use a kerf blade (thin) that is something you may have to put up with and move your fence by up to 0.5 mm. As I purchased the Triton saw, I wasn't happy with this. The store I purchased it from took it back and gave me another one and I began assembly from the beginning again (well practised now). Got to this point and struck similar problem, though not as bad. I found the straight edge nearest the fence would miss the guide, but the straight edge outside the blade would touch the guide, only slightly on this one whereas it was about 1 mm out on the other unit. The effect of the guide not touching the blade is that it pulls the workpiece away from the fence after being cut. Proof - take the guide out and *CAREFULLY* do some test cuts - it doesn't pull away from the fence now.
The problem is in the manufacture of the guide channel - the guide doesn't sit centre to the channel in the table, thus the blade will not line up with the guide. I found this out by having a look at the demo unit at the hardware store - the one they have there is fine, by guide fitted nicely in their table channel. I have good photos of this problem on my other computer and will post when I think of it. If anyone wants photos of this problem please e-mail me.
I intend asking Triton about this when I get around to it, I also intend getting the router stand for my router table as I find that things don't always fit "millimetre perfect" when put back together after conversion, particularly when removing the saw from its sliding mount.
Hope this helps,
Adam from Tassie [email protected]

My replacement rip fence arrived 3 days after I returned everything back to Bunnings. It has been sitting in my workshop since. So I took it out of the box on the weekend and did some measuring. I checked the distance the zero mark and the base of the fence. They were 59mm and 60mm. Even the replacement part is stuffed up.

I agree with your purchase of the router legs for the table adamtas, I also find things not quite perfect if I remove the saw so now it stays put. I think the router table and legs are a great unit, I don't think you will be disappointed.

Dear all,
I have similar problems to those quoted.

i eliminated the guide problem by removing it.

I got my saw just right ripping but its out when I cross-cut. If I fix it I need to readjust when I go back to ripping.

The triton concept is terrific but it needs some clever EASY fine adjustment screws on the slide for both longitudinal and vertical adjustment. The Stabilising bracket needs to be standard.

If anyone has invented an adjustment system it would sell to every serious user.

One can buy dedicated tools but space is an issue. I am waiting for the adjustment invention or may invent it myself. Many of my problems come from poor timber trimming. To do fine cabinet making a jointer-planer is a great aid. My grandfather was a cabinet-maker (days b4 jointer-planers) and his eye and hand plane were put to good use.

I have come to accept that there is nothing that is "accurate" with the Triton.
It is a tool that serves its purpose well, but it is too hard to be precise with it.
I gave up on the rear guide on the saw. I put my own pencil marks on the table top for accurate zero marks for the fence, as that was easier than trying to calculate which end I had to add half a mm or subtract 1.5mm or whatever.
As I said, I do not use the guide at the back of the blade, obviously the blade cover/dust extractor isn't used either.

The saw is what it is, it's ok for ripping and so on, but if I want a table saw, I accept that I will have to buy a table saw. Not a portable Triton.
Now I'm not bagging it out - I built a fantastic new kitchen with it, all with Tas oak cupboards and draws, and it did the job - because I worked within the limitations of the machine. It has its purpose and is capable if you can work within its limitations.
Oh, and I bought a $1000 compound cross cut saw - Metabo KGS331. So now it really is "just" a table saw.
And I am particularly careful with that blade...

I have never used the scales. I use a steel ruler to align the fence for ripping. sometimes I leave 1/2 a mm extra on outfeed if I feel there may be some binding.

Alternative is to stuff around and align saw to scales.
cheers
conwood

I used to get better than 0.5mm accuracy on my Triton. It all comes down to how well you set it up.

Anyway, that's all academic these days. Tony, I agree whole heartedly about the adjustment screws for lateral movement. Go for you life inventing one, but it'll be harder to find buyers as there are less and less unassembled units out there. Not like there are any new ones being made anytime soon (or ever(?))

Originally Posted by adamtas

I have come to accept that there is nothing that is "accurate" with the Triton....

Well, that's inaccurate

Originally Posted by Stuart

I used to get better than 0.5mm accuracy on my Triton. It all comes down to how well you set it up.

Originally Posted by adamtas

I have come to accept that there is nothing that is "accurate" with the Triton.
It is a tool that serves its purpose well, but it is too hard to be precise with it.
I gave up on the rear guide on the saw. I put my own pencil marks on the table top for accurate zero marks for the fence, as that was easier than trying to calculate which end I had to add half a mm or subtract 1.5mm or whatever.
As I said, I do not use the guide at the back of the blade, obviously the blade cover/dust extractor isn't used either.

The saw is what it is, it's ok for ripping and so on, but if I want a table saw, I accept that I will have to buy a table saw. Not a portable Triton.
Now I'm not bagging it out - I built a fantastic new kitchen with it, all with Tas oak cupboards and draws, and it did the job - because I worked within the limitations of the machine. It has its purpose and is capable if you can work within its limitations.
Oh, and I bought a $1000 compound cross cut saw - Metabo KGS331. So now it really is "just" a table saw.
And I am particularly careful with that blade...

Dear Adamtas,
as Stuart says its all in the setup but also in the operation.
As I move the timber more slowly things improved and also using the spring loaded plastic on the triangle also make a difference. I visited a professional factory and note the saw there is a different animal. The problem is we cant all have a factory to store all the tools. As time goes on and you become more familiar with the tool your results will improve.
Best wishes
Tony

Originally Posted by Wongo

My replacement rip fence arrived 3 days after I returned everything back to Bunnings. It has been sitting in my workshop since. So I took it out of the box on the weekend and did some measuring. I checked the distance the zero mark and the base of the fence. They were 59mm and 60mm. Even the replacement part is stuffed up.

Dear Wongo,
did you return the whole workcentre?
What is your alternative tool?
Tony

Originally Posted by tonysant

using the spring loaded plastic on the triangle also make a difference.

Wouldn't be without it.

Originally Posted by tonysant

As time goes on and you become more familiar with the tool your results will improve.

22nd Mar 2004, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by adamtas

Hello all
I recently bought a Triton 2000 and Triton saw {snip}

It's been 5 years, I'm kinda familiar with it it
Don't take it the wrong way - I appreciate the well wishes.
Perhaps I should pull it all apart again and have another go at setting it up, but I do remember there's no way the riving knife behind the blade will set up square with the blade AND have the blade cutting with the zero marks.
What I would need to do on mine is install the riving knife (starting with that because it isn't adjustable), then install the saw and square the blade to the riving knife (a lot of mucking about trying to do that), then mark some new zero marks on the table for the fence. I think I'd sell it and buy something like this or one of these before I do all that.
Doesn't matter anyhow -

Originally Posted by adamtas

I built a fantastic new kitchen with it, all with Tas oak cupboards and draws, and it did the job - because I worked within the limitations of the machine.

I should do a gallery post of the kitchen... Rather proud of it.

Originally Posted by tonysant

Dear Wongo,
did you return the whole workcentre?
What is your alternative tool?
Tony

JET supersaw.

Struth

I had all them problems and worse. The fence arms were out, I took a digi photo and sent that to Triton when they were still a company and they sent two new arms out as mine were out by 2mm each.

No matter how hard I tried setting that cursed thing up watching the video over and over I could not get any straight cuts in wood. Now I consider myself to be a very patient bloke. Whenever it got to me I would just walk away and come back in a couple of months and start again. The table saw never got used for years as the blade would not line up with a square. One side would be ok the other side out until I mentioned it in here on the forum. Suggestion was check the table, put a straight edge across the top. Did that and found a 3mm dip in the middle. Gave it a whack with a rubber mallet over a block of wood, it aint perfect and I am not a genuine wood worker (I work in steel) but it cuts to an odd standard that I can work with. If I want to get serious with wood I will be buying something from Carba-tec and selling the house to buy a Festool.

DD