Thread: Assembly of WC2000

Originally Posted by Graham99

Hi everybody,

Picked up the WC2000 from bunnies this week with the wheels and the height winder kit. Glad I got the height winder it was a good addition.

I have a few questions regarding the assembly though. I've already built the machine and passed timber through it and it works so I am happy with the outcome. However I found during the construction phase that there were a few things that put up a fight.

The first thing is the bearing guides. These were very hard to mount, I had to pull the top with sash clamps to get the bolts into the holes, even with the bottom support rail bolts loosened off a few turns. Went together eventually.

Then after building the saw plate went to put it in the guides and the bearings would not drop in for love or money. There was a hideous burr in every entry for the bearings. Problem sorted with needle file. WD40 was needed to improve the sliding action. I dont have much faith in the bracket that holds the saw in place in the table saw mode.

There was nothing to hold the saw guard back when the saw was mounted. I am using the GMC Platinum 235mm saw so had to come up with an alternative.

The riving knife has a big warp in it. Initially it used to bind timber between it and the fence, even though the blade was straight. Straightened it in the end though.

The mitre fence is very tight in the grooves, had to use WD to get it moving, is still a bit tight.

I fitted the saw stabilising bracket, did it my own way as the triton way resulted in a bolt getting sheared, even though I barely touched it. And why is the stabilising bracket imperial and the saw itself metric.

I want to get the Router Table and stand one day, am I in for a similar experience?

Regards
Graham

Is this indicative of a typical Triton WC2000 assembly. The machine is fundamentally sound but is a bit of a hassle to put together.

The steel work is made exactly to specification. However once it has had the powdercoating treatment you are now out slighly in fitment. Wet and dry paper and sliding vigorously parts up and down etc a few times will normally rectify these issues.

As mentioned, you need to assemble loosely as per the IM and failing to do so will always cause grief.

This machine has been built the same way for many years with very little assembly issue other than above. You will find with these tips and some use it will all free itself up quite quickly

My two bob - most of this stuff is actually covered in the video accompanying your WC2K: including protractor (triton sliding mitre gauge)adjustment, filing the bearing channel openings, wiring back the saw guard etc. It's worth a couple of viewings though if you're like me you'd be rather making sawdust than watching George describing wood being fired out of the machine "...at a terrifying rate." If it makes you feel better there is not a single TS or TS add-on that doesn't need signifcant adjusting to work to a fine degree of accuracy, it's part of setting up any TS or TS product.
Good luck.
PS: I think the saw stab. bracket is imperial because it's impossible (for me at least) to find metric wing-nuts.

Originally Posted by Graham99

...
The mitre fence is very tight in the grooves, had to use WD to get it moving, is still a bit tight.
...

Hi Graham99

I recently bought a new table top for the wc200 and returned it because of the tight fit for the mitre fence in both slots, replacement came and same prob left it with the shop as the triton guy was coming down in the next week or two so he could look at it (for some reason i wasn't particularly happy with things)

Turns out that it was merely a case of too much paint on the infill strips, mitre fence or saw guard and you just need to slide things backward and forward till things loosen up so I gather it's a known problem but easily solved once you know that its not the actual top.

Andrew

Hi there,

Just to make sure that I did not assemble it 'wrong' I went back and reread the manual as well as watched the video again. Neither stated that everything was to be assembled loose then retightened when all together. Both the manual and the video said to tighten to a point where the assembly was firm without crushing the pressed assemblies.

However, I have spent a bit of time with it, and was rewarded by being able to go out to the back yard and rip down some hardwood without the machine missing a beat, the fence was easy to set, there was no binding or cutting from the back of the blade so I would say the machine is as accurate as it's going to get. The height winder and the wheels are a valued add on to the machine. I'm running the GMC 235mm saw with a 40T blade in it, and it was quieter than I expected. Still, one day I guess I will be upgrading to a dedicated TS.

Thank you everybody for all the helpful comments. Now I want to get the Router Table so I can get to work making some Jewellry boxes for the ladies of the house.

BTW I agree Toddles, the saw stabilising bracket fixtures are imperial. Bit dumb when the rest of the machine is metric.

Regards
Graham