Thread: Work binding on workcentre

Not sure what you mean by siting it from above. Site from table height level by looking from the infeed end straight down the table at your blade. You shouldn't be able to see the knife behind the blade. If you can, there's the problem.

Another possibility is that your fence isn't parallel with the saw and the gap gets smaller as you feed in. Maybe check the scales on the fence adjustment arms with a metal rule. See if they are identical. (In other words, that the 250 mark for instance , is the same distance out from the fence on both sides)

Just a comment on the blade you have. I think 140 teeth on a small 7 1/4 blade is too fine for most work. I assume you only use this for the melamine where a finer cut is desirable? You can get a nice cut with the Triton blade too. Try making your cut in 2 passes. The last one being a shaving cut where you only take off 1mm or so. That will give the edge a smoother finish.

al2,
enjoy your new blade's clean cutting while you can-it will get very blunt very quickly. If you've followed all of Gumby's suggestions and still can't find the problem, well the problem may be the blade itself. A TCT blade will usually have a kerf of 2.7mm and upwards, due to the width if the tips. A steel blade's kerf will be as wide as the thickness of the blade plus any set in the teeth. Get a bit of scrap and make a cut in it and then try to fit this kerf over your splitter, this will tell you if there's enough width in the kerf.

BTW, what sort of saw are you using in your workcentre? The only circular saws I've ever seen with splitters/riving knives have been for the european market.

Mick

Thanks for the replies. Silly me trying to site the blade/riving knife from the top-Yes from the table level it seems the blade is positioned slightly to the left of the riving knife (the circular saw), but its a thin blade, much thinner than my Triton blade. By the way I'm using is the Ryobi ECS1350 (7.5in) bought from Bunnings for $79 (oops forgot to take advantage of their 10% discount plan, as its also seling at Big W for the same price) and it comes with its own riving knife-maybe I should remove it. Sometimes the first few cuts are OK, but later it binds as I feel the board I'm cutting is Putting pressure between the fence (of the extention table) and the saw blade-thus pushing the whole saw slightly on the triton's saw chasis, tried tightening the bolts of the clamping bracket, but no good.

Hang on, you said the extension table? Are you using the Workcentre fences a s aguide and crosscutting with the extension table ? If so, it's not recommended.
It sounds to me that your extension table isn't fitted squarely.

No, as I'm cutting melamine/veneered sheets, the workcentre is set on table saw mode almost permanently-heavens with my elaborate dust colection system set up I'm happly to leave it in table saw mode. I'd though there's only one way to set up the extention table, as it clamps to the workcentre only one possible way. Definitely, my problem is the thin 140 tooth saw blade, no problem when I use the triton blade. Just have to have a very clean cut both sides of the board for the hifi unit I'm building.

Why not use the Triton blade, cut slightly oversize and finish it off on the router table in edge planing mode. You should get a beautiful edge then.