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Thread: Saw blade sharpening
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2nd October 2005, 01:33 PM #1Member
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Saw blade sharpening
I have a 40 tooth triton blade that cam with my second hand trition. I was cross-cutting some pine yesterday and cuts were ***** house at best with alot of tear-out. Is it worth the $$$ to get the blade sharpened?
Cheers,
Mat
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2nd October 2005 01:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd October 2005, 02:55 PM #2
For a 40 tooth about $20 at my local sharpener
Price for a new 40 tooth for ripping $70 - $ 150 depending on brand and where you buy
For me i'de get the old one re-sharpened and put the extra towards an 80 tooth blade for finishing cuts, as long as you change blades for the diffrent jobs , don't get lazy and just rip this bit etc with the 80 tooth blade.
The trouble with life is there's no background music.
Russell
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3rd October 2005, 07:22 PM #3Member
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G'day Russell,
Thanks for the reply. Do you think the 40 tooth will be ok for ripping?
Cheers,
Mat
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3rd October 2005, 07:48 PM #4
I find 40 tooth fine , as it allows for good feed rate and gives a reasonable finish at a resonable cost.
Rgds
Russell
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10th October 2005, 08:23 AM #5Member
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Thanks once again Russell, besides Triton, what are the good saw blade brands?Cheers,
Mat
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12th October 2005, 06:50 PM #6
Dunno how I missed this thread, must've blinked at the wrong moment.
Instead of having just one "general-purpose" blade and maybe a spare, I reckon you should seriously consider buying 3 different blades if you're planning any volume of work.
- A 16,20 or 24 toother just for ripping.
- A 30 or 40 for combination ripping/crosscuts
- A 60 or better dedicated just to crosscutting.
But once you have these 3 blades, should one become blunted you can switch to the "general" (or whichever blade best suits the job) to see you through the job at hand while the other's being sharpened...
I keep sharp spares for each of my blades, but again this is a personal thing and I can do without them. Although I'd rather not. You'll probably also find that matching the blade to the job means easier cutting and the blades lasting longer.
- Andy Mc
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12th October 2005, 07:02 PM #7
I ended up with a 60 tooth for everything. The 40 stayed in the cupboard and I just went slowly when ripping larger stock. Changing blades on a Triton is like changing modes - a pain in the butt.
There's been a lot of talk on here recently about the very cheap blades at the Hills clearence centres. If possible, try there first.If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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13th October 2005, 09:34 AM #8Member
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Thanks for the advice Skew and Gumby.
Unfortunately I am a little far from a clearance centre and my local bunnys has no Triton blade, they only have one brand in the store (Irvings I think).
I think I will get a new 60 tooth for cross-cutting and see how it goes with ripping, if no go I will get a 20 tooth for that. And I can get my 40 tooth sharpened for combo use.
But as Gumby said, the triton is a royal pain in the butt to change modes or blades.
Cheers,
Mat
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13th October 2005, 12:13 PM #9
A crosscut sled will help with tear out since it supports the work from both sides of the cut. If you haven't got one, then make one.
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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13th October 2005, 03:33 PM #10Member
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Gumby,
Any idea where I can get some plans on the cross-cut sled?
Cheers
Mat
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13th October 2005, 04:12 PM #11
Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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13th October 2005, 04:29 PM #12
Sprog has it correct but if you want a pdf file (Acrobat) of the same thing, you can download it on our website
www.tritonwoodworkers.org.au
go to the jigs section of the menuIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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13th October 2005, 09:18 PM #13Banned
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Originally Posted by Wassy
HI GUMBY start defending that sled!!!!!
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14th October 2005, 11:43 AM #14Member
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Thanks for the links, I do have an extension table so it appears I do not need to make a sled.
Cheers,
Mat
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