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  1. #1
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    Question A couple of questions

    Howdy,

    I have a couple of questions (one or two may be slightly off topic).

    I have been reading through the posts here over the last couple of days trying to get some insider knowledge on the triton range, prior to sneaking out and buying a WC2000

    Question: What is the bevelling capability of the WC2000 with the triton 235mm saw attached? I guess this is based on some posts that I've seen plus pictures from the box that seem to show bevelling occuring from on top on the table. So I guess the question is can it be achieved with the saw locked in under the table?

    Being new to wood working I have these questions...

    What is the difference between a jointer, planer. thicknesser?


    Finally, (at least for this post) checking out the timber section in bunning, I came across a section of "laminated pineboards", at first I thought there was some form of laminate over chipboard, but when I sat how expensive they were, I looked twice...they seemed to be solid pine...any further explanations?


    Cheers

    Waz

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spartan
    Howdy,

    I have a couple of questions (one or two may be slightly off topic).
    <snip>
    Being new to wood working I have these questions...

    What is the difference between a jointer, planer. thicknesser?


    Finally, (at least for this post) checking out the timber section in bunning, I came across a section of "laminated pineboards", at first I thought there was some form of laminate over chipboard, but when I sat how expensive they were, I looked twice...they seemed to be solid pine...any further explanations?


    Cheers

    Waz
    I can't help you with your Triton questions as I don't own either the bevel ripping guide or a Triton saw. However as the difference between a jointer, etc.

    A jointer is used to straighten timber, typically one edge and one face. After straightening your timber on a jointer, you would then pass is through a thicknesser to make the second face and second edge parallel to the face and edge that you machined on the jointer. At this stage you have timber that is dressed all round DAR. Subsequent passes through the thicknesser bring the timber down to the dimensions that you require.

    As for the pine at Bunnings. Firstly I suggest that you stay away from Bunnings if you can avoid it. Prices are generally quite a bit higher then from timber yards and the quality isn't the best. I'm not familiar with the pine product in question but sounds like two or more pieces of pine have been laminated together to make a wider board. Its possible that clear pine, i.e. pine free from knot holes and other imperfections may have been used. That would certainly boost the price.

    HTH,

    Mark.
    I wanted to become a brickie but my old man said "No son, learn a trade."

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartan
    Question: What is the bevelling capability of the WC2000 with the triton 235mm saw attached? I guess this is based on some posts that I've seen plus pictures from the box that seem to show bevelling occuring from on top on the table. So I guess the question is can it be achieved with the saw locked in under the table?
    With the workcentre in the crosscut mode you can use the full bevel facility of your saw, ie tilt your saw and cut by putting a sacrificial top between the workcentre top and the timber being cut.

    However in the tablesaw mode the only way (apart from 45% using the fence something which I wouldn't recommend) is with the optional ( and extra ) sliding bevel guide.


    Peter

  5. #4
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    Aug 2003
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    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
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    If you intend to do a fair bit of bevelling, the Bevel Ripping Guide is a worthwhile addition. Sturdee is correct in saying that you can't tilt the saw in table mode like you can with a dedicated table saw. You have to uswe the crosscut mode but I've found that continually changing from table mode to crosscut mode is more bother than it's worth. In these forums you'll find lots of ways around almost any problem. Take the crosscut sled for instance. That's an accurate and very simple way to avoid the need to change modes. You can make yourself one for peanuts in a couple of hours. The sliding extension table is another if you fancy a factory built solution.
    It's really a matter of buying or making things as you need them. Start with the WC2000 and pretty soon, half the garage is orange. There's no turning back, you are one of us!!!!
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  6. #5
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    Gumby is right with suggesting the building of a cross cut sledge which can be adapted to many other things as well.

    If you only need to cut a number of fixed bevels, and don't need the infinite adjustment capability of the bevel ripping guide, you can easily build removable bevel guides for the sledge as well.


    Peter.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Erskine Park, Sydney
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    It's probably worth buying the Triton Training DVD from Bunnings for $24.95. I am in a similar spot to yourself and soon as I scrape the $$s together I will buy a WC. Thr DVD runs for 4 hours and shows you a lot you can do.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Or you could join the Triton Woodworkers Club in Holmesglen and get hands on tuition, and borrow the DVD from our library for free.......
    (I'm recruiting again)

    Ooooppps ! My mistake, brissy is a bit far to come once a month so i'll let you off!
    Last edited by Gumby; 3rd January 2005 at 09:58 AM.
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Melbourne, Victoria
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    Where's the committment? Just need to get Richard Branson to paint one of his planes Triton Orange!
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


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