Thread: Cutting points

Ahhh... I think I know what you mean. (I don't have the manual you refer to, but I can make a good guess.) You'd have to slide the mitre-guide onto an imaginary rail off the end of the table before the wood meets the sawblade?

There are times whn I've worked around this by reversing the mitre guide, so that it's in front of the wood. ie. I'm pushing the wood into the mitre-guide and then sliding the whole lot along to make the cut.

But for really acute angles this still won't work. It's also more prone to the wood slipping sideways along the MGuide, meaning bad (& unsafe) cuts. Unless you clamp the wood to the guide, of course.

For that sort of work I put the mitre-guide away and cut a sheet of 19mm(ish) thick ply/MDF to the angle required, then slide that against the fence as a pseudo mitre-guide. The offcut goes between the fence and sawblade, meaning you need to pay attention so it's not flung back out with kickback.

But it's the easiest way I know of to do what you want.

Originally Posted by builder greg

I have tried this using a 50x25 extended sub fence on edge to put points on 40x40 garden stakes as suggested but when I try this method the stakes are too far away from the saw blade so something is not being done correctly.
Can somebody assist me please.

Yes. This is why your grandfather had an axe. Can put points on garden stakes in 60 seconds flat and no set up time.

Yoy only need 10 deg for garden stakes

Can you post a photo? I've done this before without any problem, so if you can show us what you are doing, we might be able to pick up what is tripping you up.