Thread: cutting thin slivers

The question is: Do you want to keep the thin bits, or are you just worried they will get spat out at you?

If you are just worried about them getting spat back at you - just turn off the saw between cuts - little bits tend to crumble & long bits don't go all the way in.

If you want to keep the thin bits - say for plank-on-frame ship models, then you need to make a 'zero clearance' throat plate. This could be as simple as a couple of strips of stickytape laid down on the table top, long enough to avoid picking it up with the leading edge of your timber, then raise the running saw blade up through the tape.

If you are doing a lot of this you may want to make a false table top of thin MDF or Masonite with a couple of guide pieces glued underneath to register at the sides, front & back of the existing table top. You will have to clamp it down somehow - unlike a yankee type table saw you can't use the fence - and again raise the running saw blade thru' the top. With a false top you won't be able to use the triton fence, so you will have to clamp a timber batten down at the right spacing from the blade.

If you don't want the thin bits, do it in 2 or more passes each pass only take off the blade width, so nothing falls down, only saw dust. (Shaving cut)

Originally Posted by bpj1968

If you don't want the thin bits, do it in 2 or more passes each pass only take off the blade width, so nothing falls down, only saw dust. (Shaving cut)

Or get a better finish by using a router.

Graeme

Actually I don't want the thin bits,

I'm squaring up about 30 or so bits of small timber for a chopping board which I had cut with a crappy bandsaw sometime ago.

I want to glue them up altogether so I need straight edges and ends.

I hope the triton can handle this, (I'm sure it probably will)

BBM
Thanks all

Make a crosscut sled.

My suggestion might only serve to illustrate that I don't understand exactly what you're trying to do, but here goes:

If you're making a cutting board by laminating lots of pieces together, why not glue them together and then square the ends by trimming in crosscut mode? That way there's absolutely no doubt that all the pieces are precisely identical in length.

Originally Posted by Roly1972

My suggestion might only serve to illustrate that I don't understand exactly what you're trying to do, but here goes:

If you're making a cutting board by laminating lots of pieces together, why not glue them together and then square the ends by trimming in crosscut mode? That way there's absolutely no doubt that all the pieces are precisely identical in length.

Sounds the way to go for me

thanks everyone,
what i've got is about 30 bits of oregon, roughly 175x35x35mm, that were cut to this size about a year ago on a crappy bandsaw, so the edges aren't really square. I'm making a cutting board with the end grain facing up (ie 175mm is the long face and endgrain cut). i'm looking at a brick-like pattern and at the moment the pieces aren't square enough to get a good fit or good joints, so i want to shave off as little as possible on the triton table and saw, so i can get the pieces square to glu them up.
hopefully this makes sense,
after its glued up, i have no problem squaring the board up, routing, finishing etc
thanks
BBM

I understand what you are trying to do and here comes a suggestion that might shock you.

Why not use a hand plane to clean up the edge for gluing.

Or you just have to do one piece at a time. As was mention eariler. I would prefer to take off less than the thickness of the blade.