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Thread: Dovetail

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    144

    Default Dovetail

    New to this excellent forum but an old Triton user.
    Always marvelled at the ablility to get absolutely square cuts with the Triton - until last week, that is! Bought a Magswitch feather-board for the 2000 but then realised that the fence needs to be on the right of the blade to work appropriately. No worries (oh yeah?) - had problems with the riving knife as voiced by others on this site but sorted this by re-setting up the saw (Triton 235mm)(it had moved slightly over many months). In doing so noticed that one of the knobs that holds the saw on the sliding plate was not as firm as I would like - sort of stripped (Actually, I'm surprised this doesn't happen far more often). All cuts with this unsatisfactory setup have not been square - even along the face ofa rip, a straight edge along the face reveals uneveness in the cut. A cross cut in rip mode with the mitre guide was unacceptable and even altering the guide setting didn't resolve the problem. Cross cut in cross cut mode no better. Changed the original MDF fence - no better. Saw blade (Triton) buckled, I hear you ask? Tried a brand new blade - no different.
    Now, I'm hoping the loose-ish knob is the fault considering the torque the saw generates. This is the story so far.... Contacting Triton tomorrow to request new knobs. Any advice in the meantime?
    Somebody somewhere posted a note on permanently fixing the saw to the slide, but I can't remember where I read that - any ideas?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Armidale
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    87

    Default Stripped

    My plastic knobs are stripped too and am sick of doing them up with a screw driver every time I use the saw. A permenant fixture would be great if there were plans somewhere

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    621

    Default

    The problem is the thread in the palstic body eventually gets stripped. Triton do have knobs with captive nuts in them, for some of their aprts, so you may be able to order them. otherwise, replace the bolts with longer bolts so they protrude through the knobs and put a nyloc nut on them. that way teh knob only twsits and tightness is generated through the nyloc nut.

    Otherwise you may be able to drill a hole through the saw base and mounting plate at the front and rear and put in a nut and bolt. Just check where it lines upon teh table top, so it isn't in teh way and make it larger to allow for a bit of adjustment.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    ...
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    7,955

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bpj1968 View Post
    The problem is the thread in the palstic body eventually gets stripped. Triton do have knobs with captive nuts in them, for some of their aprts, so you may be able to order them.
    Another reason why the MK3 series was superior for they had metal nuts and bolts and small clamps to hold the saw.

    When I upgraded the saw sliding table to the series 2000 to allow for the height winder the plastic bits for the Triton saw was there as well as the bits to secure other saws, so they are available.


    Peter.

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