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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default Dovetail bit rises in action

    Hi, I am in the process of doing dovetail joints for a silky oak box with 12mm thick board. I am using a router table fitted with a Triton 2hp TRA-001 router, and the Gifkin dovetail jig.

    I did all the pins for the sides (4 edges in total), with a height of 12.3mm , which should project nicely and enable the pins to be sanded level with the box sides after assembly. There were no tearouts, as I was using a new router bit

    I then started the dovetails on the front piece. The first edge came up beautifully, with 12.4mm dovetail height, no tearouts.

    I then did the opposite edge, didn't bother checking here, and went on to the rear piece.

    Halfway through the first edge of the rear piece I noticed the bit was not cutting easily, and even saw the hint of smoke, so stopped everything. Turns out the router bit had risen after the first edge of the front piece was completed, from 12.4mm and was up to 15.5mm high when it was burning against the bearing.

    The way I set the cutter height is with the coarse height adjustment to just under the required height, then raise it by the fine adjustment knob. I have recently replaced the plastic gearing in the fine adjustment with metal gearing

    The router bit was definitely not loose, it was in a Gifkin reducing collett and would not move by hand. I tried turning the height adjusting handle on the side of the router, but it was quite firm and locked, as expected.

    Has anyone experienced this problem of a router bit rising before?

    I would appreciate any ideas and suggestions on how to proceed. I have left everything as is
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Hi Dengy,

    I'll put my money on the collet reducer or the shank of the router bit. When the bit is being pushed along by the router, it is under considerably for stress and power than you have in your hand. I have recently encountered the same issue with a Leigh Jig. Turned out it was the collet, not the jig or the bit.

    Regards,

    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    Thanks for this info, Rob, very much appreciated. I am using the Gifkins reducing collett, supposed to be the Rolls Royce of them all.

    How did you determine it was the collett?

    Strange that it started rising halfway through the job. It did 20 pins and 5 dovetails perfectly before starting to rise, as well as another 40 or so test cuts setting up the jig ( shim thicknesses) and the router bit height
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    regards,

    Dengy

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    I agree with Rob, it's probably the bit or collet rising. There's a lot of load on a dovetail bit because you're cutting the full depth in one go. I've never used a Gifkins jig, but is it possible to rout out most of the waste with a smaller straight bit first? That will reduce the load.
    The other thing you could try is to put a thin bit of foam at the bottom of the chuck, so the bit sits on it. This will damp any vibrations coming from the router. Some of the new routers have the foam there, don't know if the Triton does.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Crowborough, East Sussex, UK
    Posts
    820

    Default

    It can only be the lack of collet pressure causing the bit to rise, as suggested by LGS. The rack and pinion gearing on the router would not, in any way, account for such action. The cause will be a lack of tightening of the bit in the collet, with a couple of reasons, depending upon the collet chuck assembly fitted to your router.

    If your collet nut looks like this:

    triton14.jpg

    then it's the original "Hitachi-style" assembly - a male, coarse-threaded nut, fitting into a sharply-sloping shoulder in the female chuck body. The problem with this design is that, due to the coarseness of the threads, the "gearing" of the nut is high and requires significant wrench pressure to tighten it effectively. Add a reduction sleeve into that mix and problems begin. You may get better results by aligning the reduction sleeve slit with that of the collet nut, then lean on the wrench.

    The problem was removed by the introduction of the "self-releasing" design of collet assembly, the nuts of which look like this:

    mof00112.jpg mof00113.jpg

    Here, the collet nuts have a fine thread, very much "lower-geared" and requiring much less effort to effectively tighten. They work with a much shallower sloping shoulder, also allowing better control. I have successfully converted my old TRA001 to the new design and I could assist with instructions if you consider doing it.

    Meantime, lean on the wrench after aligning the slits, mark the router shaft and run it in some scrap to see if that alleviates the problem.

    Hope that helps, Dengy.

    Ray

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jimboomba. Qld
    Posts
    437

    Default

    Yep reckon it's the reducing sleeve, damn dangerous things, much better getting the full size shank dia for the router proper.

    Had it happen many years ago a couple of times always use the right size shaft since never had a problem after that.

    Cheers

    Steve

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default Success !!!

    Many thanks for all these very helpful replies, I really appreciated them.

    I am satisfied it was the collet and reducer too. Spoke with Col Hosie of Gifkin about it, and he advised that routine maintenance was necessary for the collets on table mounted routers as all the sawdust collects in them.

    Yes, it has been a very long time since I cleaned the collet and the reducer, and there was some sawdust buildup in the slots of the reducer and in the threads of the collet, so first thing this morning I soaked them both with Ooomph (a citrus cleaning solution available in the paint section of Bunnies). I have found this to be the best product by far for removing build up of resin etc on sawblades and router bits.

    I then used a fine needle to remove the softened gunk in the slots of the collet and reducer.

    I cleaned the female part of the collet assembly on the router, and this had a lot of gunk in the threads, which was easily removed by a toothbrush.

    I also found that it was possible to tighten the collet further than what I normally do, so I did that too

    Have been using the same bits all day without any problems

    Thanks again everyone
    regards,

    Dengy

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