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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Queenscliff victoria
    Posts
    34

    Default straight cuts

    Thank you Damian, Jill and Stuart.
    I will make a push stick today, I have just recieved the Video of the tablesaw 2000 which shows a jig which sits over the fence with a piece of hardwood in a slot which sits in the slot of the fence it also had a long handle attached at the end which will help me push the timber through, it looks safe and think my first projects will be to make all the jigs on the video.
    I will also address the issue of making sure my table and fence are straight. As you can guess I have no experience yet of my machines but want to learn the right safe way. Thank you very much for your detailed very informative information. I have set up my macro table extension as this looks more stable for cutting large pieces of mdf for my jigs.Will take all the time needed to get this square and straight
    One quick question, do I glue my jigs together? or should I use screws countersunk? .
    Hopefully with a bit of time and patience I will get my equipment set up properly.
    Will let you all know how I get on after these adjustments have been made.
    warm regards
    Diana

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    If you only screw it, you can always finetune it later if the need arises. If you glue it, you are up for making a new jig.

    Make sure you use dimensionally stable material for the jig (such as MDF). Making one from pine is almost unquestionably going to cause trouble for example (wood movement).
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  4. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    Also, once you have got it to a stage that you are happy with, put some paint or poyurethane on the jig to protect it from moisture. It also makes a good surface to put (UBEAUT) wax on to make it really sli[ppery.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mt Crosby, Brisbane
    Posts
    2,548

    Default

    Don't worry about inexperience. People here vary tremendously in their experiences. I'm the first to admit I'm hopeless at woodwork.

    The important things in order are:

    1. You don't hurt yourself.

    2. You don't spend money you don't have to.

    3. Have fun

    May I suggest you start a new thread, probably in the triton section of the forum. Tell us what your doing and maybe a run down of what equipment you already have, wood, problems so far etc. You'll get a few sets of detailed instructions on how to proceed. From there you'll have a few options and can take which ever suits, or take that as a starting point. Or do whatever Stuart says, he has a brain the size of a planet...

    Remember rule no 3. It's supposed to be fun
    I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
    We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
    Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mt Crosby, Brisbane
    Posts
    2,548

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
    Sounds about right - given their size, it'd cost me about that to dump them in a prepaid post bag. Given the price of petrol these days, it'd almost cost me that in a round trip from home to Carbatec..... (Course it is a lot closer from work...)
    You could always jog...

    I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
    We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
    Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    The problem with the magswitch featherboards is that they only work with the fence on the left hand side of the saw blade - not my natural way of working. Being left handed might account for that

    regards,
    Jill

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Jill,

    Same here, but Magswitch have recently released a universal featherboard which can be used on either side of the blade.

    http://www.magswitch.com.au/featherb...therboard.html

    I haven't seen it in Oz yet, but it's in the Lee Valley catalogue.

    Alan

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    excellent news! many thanks Alan, much appreciated - will follow it up

    I just hope it uses the 30mm magnets

    kind regards,
    Jill

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vevey, Switzerland
    Posts
    407

    Default

    This is what I came up with after I had destroyed the plastic devices that Triton supplied. The piece of folded over sanding belt material stops the featherboard rotating:
    Cheers, Glen

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Queenscliff victoria
    Posts
    34

    Default making a featherboard

    Wow that feather board looks great, how did you do so many cuts so accurate? there is an exercise in itself. I pick up my timber today that I ordered for my adirondack chair. I will do what Damian suggested and start a new thread in triton listing my equipment, setting them up and starting my new first ever project. The Adirondack Trio.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vevey, Switzerland
    Posts
    407

    Default

    Hi Diana. I cut them on the bandsaw, just moving the fence by the same amount after each cut. They aren't particularly accurate, probably look better on the photograph than reality.
    Cheers, Glen

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