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4th August 2008, 12:34 PM #31Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2008
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- Queenscliff victoria
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- 34
straight cuts
Thank you Damian, Jill and Stuart.
I will make a push stick today, I have just recieved the Video of the tablesaw 2000 which shows a jig which sits over the fence with a piece of hardwood in a slot which sits in the slot of the fence it also had a long handle attached at the end which will help me push the timber through, it looks safe and think my first projects will be to make all the jigs on the video.
I will also address the issue of making sure my table and fence are straight. As you can guess I have no experience yet of my machines but want to learn the right safe way. Thank you very much for your detailed very informative information. I have set up my macro table extension as this looks more stable for cutting large pieces of mdf for my jigs.Will take all the time needed to get this square and straight
One quick question, do I glue my jigs together? or should I use screws countersunk? .
Hopefully with a bit of time and patience I will get my equipment set up properly.
Will let you all know how I get on after these adjustments have been made.
warm regards
Diana
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4th August 2008 12:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th August 2008, 12:46 PM #32
If you only screw it, you can always finetune it later if the need arises. If you glue it, you are up for making a new jig.
Make sure you use dimensionally stable material for the jig (such as MDF). Making one from pine is almost unquestionably going to cause trouble for example (wood movement)."Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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4th August 2008, 01:28 PM #33
Also, once you have got it to a stage that you are happy with, put some paint or poyurethane on the jig to protect it from moisture. It also makes a good surface to put (UBEAUT) wax on to make it really sli[ppery.
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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4th August 2008, 05:48 PM #34
Don't worry about inexperience. People here vary tremendously in their experiences. I'm the first to admit I'm hopeless at woodwork.
The important things in order are:
1. You don't hurt yourself.
2. You don't spend money you don't have to.
3. Have fun
May I suggest you start a new thread, probably in the triton section of the forum. Tell us what your doing and maybe a run down of what equipment you already have, wood, problems so far etc. You'll get a few sets of detailed instructions on how to proceed. From there you'll have a few options and can take which ever suits, or take that as a starting point. Or do whatever Stuart says, he has a brain the size of a planet...
Remember rule no 3. It's supposed to be funI'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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4th August 2008, 05:51 PM #35
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4th August 2008, 06:06 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- Townsville, Nth Qld
- Posts
- 4,236
The problem with the magswitch featherboards is that they only work with the fence on the left hand side of the saw blade - not my natural way of working. Being left handed might account for that
regards,
Jill
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4th August 2008, 09:39 PM #37Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 25
Jill,
Same here, but Magswitch have recently released a universal featherboard which can be used on either side of the blade.
http://www.magswitch.com.au/featherb...therboard.html
I haven't seen it in Oz yet, but it's in the Lee Valley catalogue.
Alan
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4th August 2008, 09:52 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- Townsville, Nth Qld
- Posts
- 4,236
excellent news! many thanks Alan, much appreciated - will follow it up
I just hope it uses the 30mm magnets
kind regards,
Jill
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5th August 2008, 12:14 AM #39Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Vevey, Switzerland
- Posts
- 407
This is what I came up with after I had destroyed the plastic devices that Triton supplied. The piece of folded over sanding belt material stops the featherboard rotating:
Cheers, Glen
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5th August 2008, 08:05 AM #40Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Queenscliff victoria
- Posts
- 34
making a featherboard
Wow that feather board looks great, how did you do so many cuts so accurate? there is an exercise in itself. I pick up my timber today that I ordered for my adirondack chair. I will do what Damian suggested and start a new thread in triton listing my equipment, setting them up and starting my new first ever project. The Adirondack Trio.
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5th August 2008, 09:59 AM #41Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Vevey, Switzerland
- Posts
- 407
Hi Diana. I cut them on the bandsaw, just moving the fence by the same amount after each cut. They aren't particularly accurate, probably look better on the photograph than reality.
Cheers, Glen
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