Thread: High Fences with Triton Router Table

I have built what I call a " bevel routing guide " jig for my Triton router table which uses a high fence ( 200mm) and can be set any angle from horizontal up to 90 % vertical.

Whilst you may not have a need for that, a higher fence for the router table is easy to make and is still on my to do list.

Just cut some laminex faced chipboard to the size you want and use the existing MDF fences as a guide for drilling the holes to fix them to the existing router fence. Rout a grove along the top for attaching a T-track ( for details of track see previous posts) so you can attach removable stops and fingerboards.

Good luck,


Peter.

I have made one using two pieces of melamine covered chipboard
about 300mm wide. They are joined at right angles along the edge and have triangular supports set behind them to maintain the angle and provide support. On one I cut two grooves to match the slots in the table so that it can be moved in or out from the cutter. I cut a semi-circular opening in each along the joint above the cutter opening in the table. The size of the semi-circle will depend on the size of the cutter/s you wish to use. Behind the cutouts I attached a dust outlet made from PVC downpipe fittings and sealed it with silicone. To attach to the table you can use longer bolts and the Triton nuts or coach bolts and wing nuts.
I should have mentioned to use smooth melamine and if you polish it with Neil's EEE the timber will slide easily along the jig.
I hope this helps - I am afraid I do not have any photo to attach for you.

to Peter & Tom any chance of some photos to go with your plans ? PLEASE Pretty please

Thanks for the replies I will hunt down the t track otion

Tonto
Sorry I do not have a photo and am not into digital yet.
I got the idea from a magazine but cannot remember which one.
It really is a simplified version of the Triton fence but on a slightly larger scale. I used two old cupboard doors that just happened to be slightly longer than the table top

Tony,


I'll post some photo's and further details in a few days.


Peter.

You can get a spare fence from Triton, just get you local supplier to order it - I think mine cost about $30 for the fence with braces, knobs & hold-down bolts. Then just add your big fence. Main advantage is you don't have to muck around swaping fence bits - I'm thinking of making one of the yankee style fences with a replaceable zero clearance plate in the middle.

If you local store can't/won't order the parts, ask Gary at Pauls Mid-City Hardwear in Castlereagh St Sydney to get it for you.

Tony,

I have posted photos and details of my jig at
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...3819#post43819


Peter.

Hello Peter

Your jig looks great!! The part that sits in the table (replacing the slide), do you personally leave it in all the time or do you place the regular slide back when not using this jig? Also do you have any construction plans for the jig, or is simple enough to use a common sense approach and make some accurate guesstimates?

Thanks

Andre

Peter
It beats the hell out of me why Triton don't have you on the payroll.Is it because you won't update to the 2000 workcenter?
I am constantly blown away by your creativity.
You should patent your stuff or at least draw plans and sell them to useless mugs like me.
Do you ever use your mk3 for bevel cuts?
Stupid question. How about some pictures of the jig you have devised for that?
cheers
Jim

Andre,

Normally I take the bottom jig out of the table and leave it on the shelf until needed. I also have the planer jigs that Triton recommends to build and I am building a table insert with home made fingerboards permanently attached ( I don't like the fiddling around with the Triton hold downs) and a plain insert. Therefore the sliding table only holds the protractor and I use whichever I need at the time.

I don't have any plans as such, and as you say lot of it is common sense, however the base of the main jig has to be accurately made to fit the router table you have. To do this I placed my fence on the timber for marking out the holes etc.

The difficult part in making this jig was getting suitable adjustable brackets, I tried a number but none worked okay untill I hit on the idea of using the T-track.

If you need more info ket me know.

Peter.

Jim,

Thanks, and yes I don't feel the need to update from the MK3 to the 2000 workcenter untill the workcentre fence is upgraded to a Biesemeyer type fence.

I do have the Triton's bevel ripping guide for the MK3 and whilst it is okay I seldom need to use it now as I have the choice of using the router, SCMS or my jointer to get a bevel. After all it is much easier with the MK3 and the router stand side by side than changing the MK3 between the two modes.

Peter.

Sturdee,

given the range of jigs and add-ons you have already made for your Triton, I'm surprised that you haven't already attempted to build your own Bieseymer clone.
There's a couple of good descriptions out there in web land.
I know I have certainly thought of doing this, but the biggest problem is probably not the fence's rigidity, but the rigidity of the saw mounting through all the sliding rail assembly and other attachments relative to the upgraded industrial strength fence.

Peter
Please forgive my tardiness in replying our computor got infected with lots of 'bugs' including the biggie [I hope nobody else got it] but with 4-5 people surfing from 2 computors we got that licked and are going ADSL check out chariot.net.au but be quick!!!!!