Thread: How does the finger jointer index?

I have the series 2000 router stand ( which I think is the same one you have ) and replaced the router table with the latest table.
The instructions explain how to fit the new one to the router stand and it is quite simple and works well.
Dust collection port is built into the fence and can be taken of and attached to the table if the fence is not used.

Regards,


Peter

Hi All
I have the finger jointer, and find it realy good, once you have set it up you can repeat cut any number of fingers.
It is indexed on the first cut by a removeable plate that sit atop of the jig.
Once you have cut the first finger, there is any indexing finger next to the router bit almost on the table.
So once you have made the first cut, its simlply a matter of moveing you work along 1/4'', or 1/2''
Here are some piccys to help out.
Clear as mud.

Cheers, Allan

And number 2

Hi Peter and Allan,

Thanks for the comments and the photos.

I actually had a rush of blood to the head when I saw that a hardware shop just down the street was having a demonstration this morning, so I've just bought the table and jointer (and been very favourably impressed by the router as well). Only $308 for the two which seems fine for what you get.

I am a huge fan of the Gifkin dovetail jig, because it makes really tight, accurate and good looking joints, but there's no getting around the fact that each of those tails and pins has got to be cut carefully and individually to get a really first class result. That's fine when making serious pieces, but if you just want to make up 50 storage boxes for miscellaneous stuff in the workshop you're talking a huge effort with dovetails.

It was very obvious from the demo that cutting finger joints with the Triton jig will be much more productive for this task, whilst still providing a tight and good looking joint. Horses for courses, I suppose.

My confusion about the indexing was that I'd assumed that the boards were clamped tightly between the fences, and that the whole fence assembly was indexed (like the Gifkin, I suppose).

This is also why I couldn't understand about the first cut causing some people to have trouble with the workpiece "kicking" to one side. Now I've see how the indexing works its clear that the whole process is even more efficient than I'd thought - when set up right the whole block of sides can be easily be moved between cuts and either held by hand or perhaps given some extra support by snugging the fences with a trigger clamp.

I'm looking forward to finding a quiet evening to bolt it all together and try it. I'll let you know how I get on!

Cheers, Dieter.

Always use a trigger clamp! Saves having any of the boards slip and wrecking the joints. (especially when doing all 4 sides at once)

Hi Stuart,

Yeah, my instincts would have been to use the trigger clamp.

The reason I sounded tentative about it was that was not the way the demonstrator did it today - he clamped a small board above the fence and across in front of the workpieces. He said it helped resolve the same problem, and I assume it allowed him to do the indexing more quickly (he adjusted the fences to moderate tightness).

Having not actually had the jig my hands yet I had to give him the benefit of the doubt!

As I say, I'd have expected to use the clamp if I hadn't seen him do it differently.

Interesting, with the Gifkin a joint takes quite a long time to cut because you have to make multiple passes around the pins to get the best results, and there can be significant sideways forces and vibration, so I found that a trigger clamp was not the best option - a carpenters clamp or a G clamp was required for best results. I suspect that won't be as much of an issue with the finger jointer.

I'm really excited about being able to do all sides of a box in two setups!

Cheers, Dieter.