Thread: is this a new problem?

"Drawing back" If you mean you rip the timber then pull it back towards you then all I can say is that I have never done this, it sounds very dangerous to me.

When ripping timber I always push the work all the way through with the push stick, turn off the saw and collect the work from the outfeed side.

As for the guard support being loose mine is extreemly tight and would stay in place without the locking arm, however I always use it.

In reference to blades I went from a 40 tooth to a 60 to get a claeaner cut, ripping is slower but I am in no hurry. I have never tried a 30 tooth so can only assume that ripping would be faster but you may experience more tearout in crosscut mode. I may be wrong, it has happened before, it was in 1972, summer I think.........

David..I,ve had quite a few bench saws over the years and when ripping lenths of timber have on many occasions "drawn back" the work,turned it round and run it through from the other end rather than walk to the other end of the saw bench and pull it through but with ALL the saws I,ve had it has not been possible for the guard support to come in contasct with the saw blade and I feel that this should be the case but in the Triton this is not so and I certainly feel I should make a modification to this effect.

Desmitch,
what exactly came loose or bent to allow the splitter to hit the blade?

Mick

Possibly the cause of the guard support coming forward would be the fact that if the guard was set down low to the work piece the pressure fingers that stick down from under the guard are putting pressure on the timber and allow you to push the timber through but are designed to stop the saw blade shooting the timber back at you if you get a jamb.

If you lift the guard up until the pressure fingers are clear of the timber you shouldn't have any problem with it pulling forward.

But remember you are then over riding an important safety feature of the saw.

If you are cutting longer timber use your Multi-Stand for support and push it right through. That is the safest way.

As you know the overhead guard support (acting also as a splitter) is secured in position aprox 12mm behind the saw blade by pressing down the locking lever, this acts as a wedge "wedging" the splitter into place so it depends entirely on friction to prevent any forward or backward movement.The guard was clear of the workpiece at the time so played no part in the incident...As I said earlier it is the only "splitter I,ve come across that is not secured in such a way that it is not possible for it to come into contact with the saw blade.I have not brought this to the attention of Triton yet as I thought I would enquire (via this board) if anyone else had any probs.

I have to agree with those who say you should never pull the work back again. As much as anything else, you will get some recut damage on the timber as it passes the blade again. i have the Triton video and at no stage does george suggest pulling any work back. In fact he strongly suggests you push it all the way through in one even pass. I'm sure that is the answer you'll get from Triton.

As for the balde, Go with more teeth, not less. I have 'upgraded' mine to the Triton (of course 60 tooth blade. It cuts beautifully, very smooth and not much slower than the 40 tooth.

Ive never heard of any one pulling back when useing a table saw, I think you are asking for trouble.

Im supprised you havent had any serious kickback from doing this.
I would never dream of doing this with my tablesaw, as Im sure it would kick me where it hurts.

Al

Originally Posted by desmitch

I,ve had quite a few bench saws over the years and when ripping lenths of timber have on many occasions "drawn back" the work,turned it round and run it through from the other end rather than walk to the other end of the saw bench and pull it through .

With the greatest of respect Desmitch, I think you've been doing it wrong for quite a while. You shouldn't short-cut anything just to save walking around the table. Safety FIRST.

Thanks for the concensus of advice which I will take to heart when ripping down but just to be certain I,ve ensured that the splitter cannot touch the sawblade and as for the No of saw teeth I,ve replaced the triton 40 tooth and bought an additional 30 tooth for ripping

if it can help. it happened to me once
I was not drawing back the wood, just ripping
What happened is that suddenly I saw some metal shaving and wondered what it was then realised the problem
It came from the fact that the plastic bracket that sits on on the height winder and whose purpose is to lock the saw chassis on the table top was upside down and therefore the saw chassis was not secured
As soon as I started ripping and the effort was to strong, this pushed the chassis via the saw blade backwards towards the saw guard and eventually touched it.

Rule # 1: DO NOT use a power tool in a way contrary to its instructions or ability.....
I wonder how many of us have our guard/riving knife with a lovely radius cut in the leading edge? . I've got one!!!!!

Mine happened after I had cut some rebates and had the saw lowered and then had to cut some thicker stock, and I wound the blade up with the height winder, not realising I had had the knife moved forward (for dust extraction I spose) :eek: mighty powerful saw that triton saw...

So how many other ways is there to cut your riving knife (splitter????) must be an english term???

I have the triton saw which came fitted with a riving knife (uk regulations) so I assume the back fin could not come into contact with the saw blade.

Originally Posted by JaD

(splitter????) must be an english term???

Splitter is actually what the riving knife is supposed to do! When timber has internal stresses and wants to close itself back together, the riving knife holds the cut apart to prevent the saw blade from jamming on the closing timber.

I had this happen to me whilst squaring up 16 pices of 40 x40 1500 long and about half way through the guard hit the blade with simmilar consequences to my new blade. I called Triton and complained that the guard nd riving knife seemed to have vibrated forward into the blade. They sent me a new riving knife and suggested I write to them about the new ( now ruined )Hitachi blade. I never got a reply or a blade. I am trying to make a guard which fits onto two post on either side of the bench so that I can cut blind cuts with out removing the blade.
it happened to Me2