Thread: It must be me

I assume that you have a WC2000 and not a Mk3?

By "adjusting the end-panel knobs" do you mean the ones that control the height of the table? Ideally, they should all be at the same setting, which is dictated by the maximum depth of cut of the saw.

If so and you feel a "need" to tweak the heights, I'm inclined to think that the frame of you WC isn't properly squared... so the tweaks you've made in positioning the saw on the mount for TS mode are "doubled" when you flip the saw over. It's sort of like when you scribe a line with a carpenter's square, then flip it over and scribe another; the difference between the lines is double the error in the square.


'Tis easy enough to check: remove the table and measure the two diagonals from top outside corner to top outside corner. They should both be identical. Personally, I'd put the table back in place and measure again. The measurements shouldn't change, but...

Remove the table and repeat the measurements down between the bottom outside corners. These should be different to the top measurements, but still identical to each other.

If either pair of diagonals don't match, you need to tweak the table frame until they do! Otherwise you can only set the saw up to be accurate in TS mode... 'cos in crosscut mode even though you can set the saw blade to be square & parallel, unless the frame is spot on the saw will crab slightly sideways as you slide it.


If everything checks out fine... I've no idea!

Can we assume that the cross-cut fence is correctly "clicked" into all of its locators?

If the vertical face is square, then the only thing affecting the horizontal trueness must be the fence, I think. Framing square to the fore next.

Ray.

PS: one obvious thing I forgot to ask... is your floor dead flat?

If there's a twist in the floor then the frame will appear to twist to match, of course.

In that case, it's the floor that really needs tweaking, not the WC.

Enderman, build yourself a crosscut sled, and you never have to change the wc out of rip mode again. There are several threads on the forum, explaing the sled.

That's given me food for thought. Thanks.
I think the floor may be playing a part in this problem. When it stops raining ( No. Really ) I'll get my gear out and check it all out as recommended. And i'll have a look for the cross cut sleds too.

PS
As of this afternoon, 2nd Aug ,there were 3 original workcenter 2000 saw dust bags on the shelf in the sale at the big B+Q in Milton Keynes in the UK, for any UK members who are interested. About 25 notes each if I remember correctly.

Got the saw table out last night ( it is a 2000 ) and there is some definite torsion going on in the frame due to the uneven ground. If you satnd at the switchbox end the leg at the top right is about 11cm out of level. So I packed all the legs up till it was square and i'm now gonna make some feet so that it stays perfectly flat. Hopefully that should sort it.

I have a another question. I was watching the old video that came with the triton workcenter again the other evening and I noticed that there was what looked like a red plastic something in the middle channel in front of the saw blade. My table doesn't have this. Can anybody tell me what it is.

Originally Posted by The enderman

I have a another question. I was watching the old video that came with the triton workcenter again the other evening and I noticed that there was what looked like a red plastic something in the middle channel in front of the saw blade. My table doesn't have this. Can anybody tell me what it is.

It's known as a BRA224 Series 2000 Bridge and comes with the Bevel Ripping Guide (BRA200). Often left in the table top, these are meant to store on the BRG itself, but they're a pain to get in and out, so most don't bother. If you don't have a BRG, you won't have the red plastic bridge. HTH

Ray