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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
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    49

    Default Jig question for a newbie.

    Just setting up a new Triton Wc2000 and Triton saw. It's taking me a few nights as I only have a hsort time each night to do it ( nd massive clean up was required first) but I'm nearly there

    I'm gettnig an itchy trigger finger so to speak, but I want to get it right first time - damn.

    Anyway, I've got 2 questions I haven't seen covered off yet.

    1) To cut a piece of wood not at 90 deg. I beielve you need to make a jig to put against the rail and then slide the jig and the bit of wood. How do you cut the angle on the jig in the first place? Freehand with the powersaw?

    2) The manual suggests that you need to tie the saw's cover back with a peice of string or rubber band, but where do you attach it to?

    These might seem silly, but I hav to start somewhere. Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
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    6,786

    Default

    If I understand your question correctly, you are starting with a piece of timber which doesnt have a square edge, like a slab for instance.

    In that case, you dont cut the jig first. You attach your timber to the jig (usually a straight pce of mdf) which runs along the fence. You can just line the cut up by eye and run it through the saw. Your off cut can be discarded. It doesnt matter if you cut some of the mdf in the process. You'll then have a straight edge on one side of your timber which can then be run along the fence by itself to straighten up the other side. The timber can be attached to the mdf by double sided tape or small nails, but watch out you dont run the nails through the saw !

    The guard problem is the same one I had. How to attach the band ? Mines under the table and I;m at work so I can't go and look at it but I just wrapped the band around the bottom and up the other side. I think that some of that gren plastic coated wire they use for garden plants to tie them to stakes is a good alternative. Just form it into a hook shape - you could make one from an old coat hanger easily as well - just make sure they aren't near the blade of course. Once the saw is set up and sitting under the table top, the guard can't come up anyway.
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
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    Default

    PS in case anybody was wondering, I work for myself so I'm allowed to be on here during the day
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Thanks for th reply. I'm still a little :confused: but I'm sure the piccy will help.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Can I suggest using the mitre guage and appropriate packing pieces to cut some regular small wedge angles in table saw mode or cross cut mode.

    I used a small double ended hook, about 1.5" long, fashioned from a coat hanger to tie the retractable guard lever back to the edge of the fixed top guard. It's a bit dodgy because if it ever falls off it may damage the saw blade or worse go ballistic and hurt someone. It seems secure enough and it's simple to do though.
    Keep the wood chips flying !

    Jarrah

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    ...
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    7,955

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumby
    I think that some of that green plastic coated wire they use for garden plants to tie them to stakes is a good alternative.
    That is what I use. Just wrap it arount the little handle of the blade guard and onto the saw carriage. Strong, easy to put on and doesn't perish with age.


    Peter.

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