Thread: MK3 Setup Tips

The main thing is to follow the instructions and do lots of test cuts when setting up. If you cut through a piece of wood, supposedly at right angles, then twist one piece through 180 deg., any error will be obvious.

Be prepared to spend a couple of hours, but you should only have to do it once. It's worth it.

To add to Alex' reply, I have a big Makita in a height winder and a new saw chassis in my Mk3 (making the height winder fit is another story!)
After you've done all the 'book' adjustments, set your saw at a reasonable height and set the ripping guide to an equal distance on each rule. Use a piece of scrap ply and cut a notch on opposite sides using the front and back of the saw. TURN THE SAW OFF and check that the notch fits front and back (flip the ply).
If it fits your adjustments are correct!

Thanks

All I've got to do now is find some time to set it up... after painting the house that is...

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"Beer is proof that God loves us,
and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin

I have adopted an idea from workshopdemos.com with regards to seting up the saw table. One of the problems I find is that once the table is set up and it is moved around the shop floor for what ever reason - usually to get the car in, the table goes out of alignment .
The method I have used is to get a 5mm plate made up with to replace the saw blade and use this to measure angle and didtances from the fence.
This takes only about 5 minutes max and when done is better than trying to set up to a blade.
I usually do this each Friday night and I am set for the weekend.
A better way would be to bolt on plates to the side and base of the table to make like a box shape and remove material for the Dust extractions. - maybe later. This would make the table stronger but heavier. More thought needed.