Thread: Modifying the Triton Router Table top height

I don't see any problem with this at all. Just make sure it is secured down adequately. See the mod for the Triton router table on the site below, and substitute MDF for the aluminium.

Don't make the MDF too thick- you don't want to get close to engaging the spindle lock. This is not a safety risk, but you'll be very annoyed if you have to change to a thinner piece of MDF!

90mm! That's frickin' huge. I hope you have a variable speed router that you can run on min speed. Otherwise I'd be very scared.

I am very green however- have admired these sets for years.

Hmm - just been thinking some more about this. Be bloody sure that the bit is engaged firmly in the router collet. You may be tempted not to do this, as you may not be able to lower the router sufficiently to disengage the spindle lock.

If you get to this situation, there is a safer alternative.

Get hold of the router mount subplate (about $12 from Triton (or is that GMC (or do you have to get that from Bunnings now....))) and mount it directly to the bottom of the MDF. This will give you back you ability to wind the router right down again.

The other thing to be VERY careful of. I'm not sure what the clearance is for the router itself (assuming it is a Triton). Make sure that there is no chance the bit will impact on the router itself through the extent of the travel.

Err on the side of caution. That is a monster bit.

Stuart, thanks so much for your reply - good point about the spindle lock - on re-checking I found that at 12 mm the lock is engaged but it looks ok if I use a 6mm thickness and I will still, just, get the height I need.
It is a Triton router and, yes I've checked clearances etc. and the bit will be fully inserted, and I will set the speed to the lowest possible. I did get some data on bit speed vs diameter off the web so I do appreciate the need for a low speed setting.
Thanks again for your help and concern.

Originally Posted by Ian Smith

The ogee raised panel bit is a monster !! ... around 90mm dia

Thats huge!!!!! but the set seems cheap, for a good brand like carbatec, is that the regular price or did u do some wheeling and dealing?

Good post Ian. Unfortunately you have just highlighted the exact problem I have with the Somerfeld set I just got from Carbatec. I was thinking of just using some sacraficial timber under my piece clamped on some how, but your idea may be better.

Please let us know how you go.

Cheers

Doug - I'm a bit new to all this, but I was under the impression that CMT was up there with the best.
I bought the set from Carba-Tec over the web. No wheeling and dealing. Check it out - http://svc010.bne011i.server-web.com....html?cache=no.
It was choice between CMT bits from Carba-Tec and Carbi-I-Tool bits from Peacock Saws, but since CMT were offering a matched set I went that way.

Originally Posted by doug the slug

Thats huge!!!!! but the set seems cheap, for a good brand like carbatec, is that the regular price or did u do some wheeling and dealing?

Not carbatec - CMT. Very nice sets they are too.

Good luck Ian, look forward to seeing the results!

Well folks, good news !! A 5mm sheet of masonite has done the trick. Cut to fit the top of the router table with a (large) hole for the cutters and a couple of slots for the fence attachment bolts. The fence attachment bolts are plenty long enough to accommodate the thicknes of the masonite, so when the fence bolts are tightened the sheet is firmly anchored. I used a couple of Quik-clamps to hold the sheet in place when adjusting the fence - I may look for a more permanent attaching solution but this will do for now.
Learned a couple of things that may prove useful. The first is pretty obvious but I'll say it anyway - bit height is super critical so take the time to do lots of trial cuts to get it right. I had planned on using post and stiles of around 60mm width which I ripped from a 290mm plank. Routing the ends of the stiles proved difficult so I decided to cut a length of plank to the required length and rout the ends before ripping it into 60mm lengths - much better result - no break-out and better control over the work piece in the router.
So, today I managed to reduce a fair amount of plantation pine to short useless bits with slots in them... BUT... I also have a prototype raised panel door.
Oh, and just a final comment on the size of that CMT raised panel bit. Run at the correct speed, about 10,000 rpm, it was no problem. It has two bearings (large and small) to allow for a first cut and a final cut - ran very smoothly and did a very nice job - so maybe size doesn't matter

Thanks once again to those who took the time to reply

Originally Posted by Ian Smith

Well folks, good news !! A 5mm sheet of masonite has done the trick.

Thanks Ian, I'll give it a go next weekend.

Ian,

I have used raised panel bits in my RTA300, I'd be happy for you to come and look at my false table top if you like. Send me a PM if you want to see it.

Woody

Originally Posted by Ian Smith

Doug - I'm a bit new to all this, but I was under the impression that CMT was up there with the best.
I bought the set from Carba-Tec over the web. No wheeling and dealing. Check it out .

Our local woodworking tools supplier gave me a carbatec catalog at the markets on the weekend and ive just about decided to get those very bits. good to see other forum members recommending them.

Doug

Decided to stop lurking and say hi for a change, so hi guys!

I got myself some of the CMT raised panel bits a few months back and ran into the same problem as Ian. Ended up with virtually the same solution using 12mm MDF on the router table - found that the thickness gave me enough room to have a reasonable amount of adjustment on the depth of the bit.
For fixing the board to the table, I drilled holes in the 4 corners and through the end rails of the table, fixing it with countersunk bolts with nylock nuts. seems to work rather well.
The router sets are good value (although i'm a complete beginner, so you can take that with a pinch of salt . not the normal cheap and nasty bits that certain hardware stores stock! I can definately say that the kitchen cupboards are starting to look pretty damn nice with raised panel tassie oak doors! now if only i can persuade the boss at work to let me stay home and finish them...

Originally Posted by Woodworker101

Ian,

I have used raised panel bits in my RTA300, I'd be happy for you to come and look at my false table top if you like. Send me a PM if you want to see it.

Woody

How about sharing it, rather than hiding it? Or is it a copy of what has already been well documented on this board by others?

Being a Triton Demonstrator, I'm very surprised you are condoning / encouraging people to use a false table top on the Triton Router table. It would suggest that despite being employed by Triton, you don't think their product is up to scratch and therefore needs modification (as opposed to a jig).

Originally Posted by Dangermouse

Decided to stop lurking and say hi for a change, so hi guys!

Glad you've come out of your mousehole! Welcome along. Hope to see some of your work in the near future, and jigs/mods, which it sounds like you have been doing.