Thread: picture framing

Yep completely agree, it is the only accurate way to cut the mitres on the triton, I find the protractor used in table saw mode has a tiny amount of movement which ruins things, you fix the protractor and no problems!

Funnily enough thoough George recommends the table saw mode for cutting mitres :confused:

Yes routerm.....

I suppose it would save stripping the table down using table mode, but I would back up the protractor with a fence and clamps for stability. Or perhaps the triton fence would provide the back up needed, I'll try it next time in the workshop.

Woody

The pictures of your jig look interesting. Could you include the links to the original article?

Do you make your own mouldings for the frames?

link fro BOB
http://www.tritonwoodworkers.org.au/

follow down left hand side of page and find Woodwork articles /Techniques.


Having second thoughts abour using the triton fence to guide the projector, ther would be an obstruction situation.

Using the protractor in table saw mode is extremely accurate and fast.

When using the protractor in table saw mode you HAVE to apply downward pressure to the protractor as you cut the joint to eliminate any slight movement.

If you attach fences to the protractor, there has to be clearance between the fence and tabletop to allow the protractor to mate with the taper in the slide when applying the downward pressure.

I have cut hundreds of mitres for picture frames using the Triton in the table saw mode, all the joints turn out perfect every time. I described elsewhere on this forum how I cut mitres on the triton.

Cutting Mitres

Sprog
thanks for the info about the downward pressure, I hadnt twigged to the taper issue
Clint

Thanks Sprog,
The next time called upon to make another picture frame (the LOML spends a lot of time doing crossstitch)I will do a maintenance job on the protracter take out the sliding key and spread the lugs out a bit to take off ny slack.
This is one advantage of the Triton slider if you look at it that way.

Sprog you make a good point about applying pressure to the protractor.. I have found this difficult to sustain though especially with hardwoods and longer length frames... If presssure could be applied consistently all the way through and the protractor doesn't rotate at all, as you say you should get a perfect mitre.

Hasnt really worked for me but Im very hopeful Bazzas sled will do the trick, Its a small nuisance having to take the dust bag off and use the saw in the crosscut mode.

Nevertheless mitres or no mitres the little triton has paid off its cost many times, cant criticize that . In fact for anyone who has any renovations to do, its had to beat the versatility off the saw and extension table.

My 2c worth

ooops that is "hard to beat..."

Originally Posted by routermaniac

Sprog you make a good point about applying pressure to the protractor.. I have found this difficult to sustain though especially with hardwoods and longer length frames... If presssure could be applied consistently all the way through and the protractor doesn't rotate at all, as you say you should get a perfect mitre.

My 2c worth

If you keep your fingers inside the protractor, where they are supposed to be for safety, then downward pressure is applied almost automatically. Only slight downward pressure is required for perfectly cut mitres every time.

If a jig helps you do the job better then go for it.