Thread: Power problem Triton TRA001 Router

I am not an expert, but a lot of people on this forum have had to replace the speed controller. I would read some of the threads about that and see if it sounds like the issue with your router.

Peter

It does sound like the speed controller has gone.

Talk to David of Woodworking Centre in the UK. You might be able to get something from Carbatec but I don't know what the availability would be like.

As a guide, when we did the group buy in dec/jan, the speed controllers that were in stock were about GPB 57, which translated to a price near enough to $107 AUS delivered. You might have better luck on price if you can source locally.

Obviously, for that sort of money I'd be making sure it is the speed controller though.

cheers,
Dave

Originally Posted by Kirwilli

My TRA001 has just stopped working!. Power is still running to the machine, on/off switch is illuminated. There is the occasional movement when the router is turned on. can anybody advise me of what might be the problem.

Thanks in advance

Kirwilli

Hi,

Before you go off and buy a speed controller you might want to take it into a power tool repairer for a once over. I had the same problem and it ended up being an issue with the brushes. Nothing had to be replaced as I understand they had become misaligned or something. Anyway it cost me $15 to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
Jason

Thanks everyone for the advice. if the controller costs over $100.00 and maybe the same again for a service, maybe a new router with a decent warranty would be better. The brushes seem to be fine, with plenty of meat on them. However one problem remains. Who makes a router that fits correctly into a Triton Router Table.

Kirwilli

Have you stalled the router (i.e., did it stop due to load)? If so, I'd say it's a primary windings problem - use only as a door stop. If not, does altering the variable speed thumbwheel make any difference - does it hum with power on and does the hum reduce with the thumbwheel turning?

Are the copper segments upon which the brushes ride clean or burned-looking? They can become dirty to the point of not working, although that's rare and dependent on heavy use. You could probably by-pass the variable speed controller quite easily - that will prove if it is the controller, or the motor. See here for dismantling pictures, etc. HTH

Ray

Your problem could be anything from a loose connection somewhere, the brushes not bedding onto the commutator correctly, an open circuit field winding or maybe as others have suggested the speed controller or switch is faulty.
No matter what, please take it to a repair shop and have the unit looked at by someone qualified. Much safer than trying to repair yourself. Any repair shop will give you a quote and probably advise you of the problem.
I would look at the router for you if you lived over here in God's country!!

Originally Posted by terryvk6pq

No matter what, please take it to a repair shop and have the unit looked at by someone qualified. Much safer than trying to repair yourself. Any repair shop will give you a quote and probably advise you of the problem.

As I said previously definitely do that. They will probably charge you a quotation fee. In my case $15. But in my case it was something to do with the brushes and it did not cost anything more to fix it! Who knows you might get lucky. If you don't you will at least be armed with the right info to make your next decision all for $15!

A bit obvious, but does the bit rotate by hand (with the power off of course)? It is possible that the locking pin has become stuck in the hole in the shaft and just needs some gentle probing with a bit of wire or a paper clip. IF the pin is sticking out there will be a hum, and if the power is on for too long, blue smoke

The opposite thing also happens too, in my case there was a tiny burr on the plunger that hung up inside the hole in the body.

Originally Posted by bsrlee

It is possible that the locking pin has become stuck in the hole in the shaft and just needs some gentle probing with a bit of wire or a paper clip.

Good point! A word of caution if you need to dismantle the plunge lock pin. Once the screw is removed, the pin itself has two springs, see below:



These springs must be reassembled in the order they were in when dismantling, so keep a note of which is on the far side of the spring stop ring and which needs to be nearest the black cam follower*.

(*The black plastic cam follower can sometimes swell in damp or very humid conditions. The cure is to dry it out over a day or two before re-fitting - seriously, no joke, this works!)

HTH

Ray.

Ray is right, the black plastic cap can swell - a night in the airing cupboard sorted this out for me.

If the mechanism is not moving freely try this. I cannot explain the how plastic can swell in humid conditions, but apparently it can.

Originally Posted by sam8364

I cannot explain the how plastic can swell in humid conditions, but apparently it can.

Nylon is strongly hygroscopic: absorbs water.

Cheers,

Well there you go, shows how much I know

Good job I was History teacher and not a science one I guess