Thread: Powered Compact Saw vs 2000

The depth of cut might be the major factor from what I can see. If it had the full depth of the 2000 with a 9 1/4 blade and I was starting again I probably would have gone for one myself over the 2000.
I rarely use the crosscut mode as it is in the 2000 as I crosscut most stuff on the table top anyhow.
The compact table is a good price and if you don't mind the smaller depth of cut it might be just what you need, however, you may be wanting the full features sometime down the track and there won't be much you can do about it then unless you buy the 2000 or work with a larger saw out of the table.
It might also be worth the extra money to have something you know will cater for projects out of the compact saw's scope, even if you don't see a need for it now. It's ultimately your decision on how rigid you are on what you forsee it being used for. Hard call there.

Thanks for your comments. I agree, it is really a case of a smaller tool and deciding whether that will cater for my needs, but at a really enticing price. I am told that the compact table is able to fit a 9 1/4" saw if I want to go to that expense.

John

once you start on the orange stuff, it's very hard to stop

I ditched the Compact Saw Table after a year and moved up to the WC2000. I and just couldn't help myself and had to get all the accessories....

That seems to be the nature of woodworking... You never seem to have enough tools!

So, if you have decided Triton is what you want, and your budget can handle a WC2000, then I would suggest buying it as you can upgrade as you go along...

Thanks Dion,

I understand exactly what you mean. If I wasn't trying to save some $$s at present I would go for the WC2000. What did you find restricting on the compact that balanced out when you got the 2000? As you have had both, I am interested in your comments here.
Thanks John.

John,

Like Dion said, you'll want to start upgrading before very long. 18 months ago, all I wanted was a Triton 2000 and would have been happy just cutting a straight piece of timber. Now I have just about all the Triton add-ons like the extension table, bevel ripping guide, height winder, dust bag and Triton router and table with a biscuit joiner. Then I found I couldn't do much decent work without a combo thicknesser/jointer, band saw, dust extractor etc etc.
As Dion said, you'll never have enough tools.
Once you start, you'll want to build more things than the smaller unit will allow and you'll be upgrading in no time. The depth of cut and lack of table size will make it too restrictive. My brother has one and is very limited in what he can do.

The crosscut problem can be solved with a crosscut sled. I've made one for my 2000 and i can't see why you couldn't do the same for the compact. There's a thread about it in the Triton forum if you do a search.

If you are on a budget, as most of us are, then I'd suggest trying to get a second hand Triton unit. Even a Mk3, which many are still happy with, won't cost heaps. They are around for sale, as are the 2000 series if you look in the buy & sell forum or try ebay. That way, if you look after the equipment, you'll be able to sell it for just about what it cost you within a reasonable time. The same goes for the new gear. There's a good market for it.
When it comes to a garage full of tools and machinery, we look at the cost and think we can't justify it, but if I gave up woodworking today, I'd get 75% of it all back again. That's what I tell the misses anyway.

Happy hunting

John

If $$$ are the only reason why you are getting a Compact - then try the trading post and this forum for a 2nd hand WC2000 or MK 3. The Compact is OK if you want to do some really simple stuff and never take woodworking any further than that. But if you want to improve your skills and move onto more complex stuff, the Compact simply doesn't have the versatility that you get with the add-ons available for the WC20000 or MK3. Also, the Router Table top can be added onto the WC2000 or MK3 and even with a cheap router mounted in it you can produce some fairly nice work.

But before you choose, why not head along to a Triton Club if one exists in your local area and see what the members have to say?

If you can afford the WC2000 and plan to become more involved with your woodworking (ie do more than just cut timber that you can cut with a powered saw handheld), then go for the WC2000. You won't regret it if you're into your woodwork.

Here's some food for thought in answer to your questions:
1. No crosscut mode: If you're going to cut long/thick/heavy timber, you will need it. I find the crosscut mode very helpful when I have larger pieces of timber that I have to cut, eg the 100x100mm posts that I used for a sitting bench - the timber was too long and heavy to lift let alone slide/push across a table.

2. Single depth cut: Consider the type of projects you're going to be doing. The lack of height adjustment can be a problem. You can use the height adjustment to make rebates in your timber. You could use a router for rebates...if you have one and have it mounted in a table, which the WC2000 has as an addon for.

3. Lesser powered saw: Not really and issue, you could replace it with a more powerful one...once the one it comes with dies.

4. Smaller table area: Always nicer to have a large tabletop. Go along to your local bunnings and check the tabletop area of the WC2000 table to the Powered Compact table. Which feels better to work with? You'll find the larger tabletop means you can handle timber thats a little bit larger. Oh, and you can rip timber upto 620mm in width on the WC2000, compared to 450mm on the powered compact.

5. Single sided protractor: not really an issue that I can see, but others may have a different perspective on this. You can always get a WC2000 one if it fits, they're pretty cheap.

It really depends on how involved you plan to become with your woodworking projects. The Powered compact is definitely a cheap way to get you into a tablesaw with the ability to add a few accessories. The WC2000 has more facilities and lets you build up your tablesaw and workshop. Have a good think about what you plan to do. I find with the WC2000, I'm wanting to do more projects that require more flexibilty/facilities from a tablesaw and with the the WC2000's design and flexibilty, I can do this.

Thanks for your comments. Ican clearly see that everyone is right about how this stuff grows on you and how it is a pain if you haven't gone for the right tool in the first place. I bought a Triton router table and stand a couple of weeks ago and am already quite frustrated with my cheap router due to lack of easy depth adjustments, plus have laso bought a finger jointer and dust bucket.... I will see how the $$s stretch and then make a decision. Thanks again, John.

If you've gone that far, and purchased the router and table, then you definitely won't be happy with a compact.

I'd suggest you modify the dust bucket too. The 'Sturdee' mod has been discussed at length in this forum and is well worth reading..............then make the changes.

John,


I have used the Triton Mk3 since the early 1990’s and have the dust collection setup, height-winding kit, bevel ripping attachment and the sliding extension table as well as the planer attachment. To this workcentre I have made many modifications and improvements. For details of these mods do a search of this board. As such I feel qualified to comment on your question.


When I first started the workcentre was the only item made by Triton and the price compared with the then cheapest table saw was about one tenth and the only thing affordable. This situation is no longer applicable.


Sure you can buy a workcentre 2000 with the Triton 9 ¼ saw, the height winding kit, the bevel ripping guide and the sliding extension table and dust bucket all at once BUT you pay more than a reasonable table saw.

If you can not afford all at once then the staged improvements to your workcentre by buying add-ons as you can afford is acceptable but not as good as buying a reasonable table saw.

Therefore the choice of a cheap Powered Compact Table with the 7-¼ saw is a fantastic starter package. You are able to use it as a saw or router table and improve it with a number of add-ons if desired. You can also increase the cutting capacity with a 9 ¼ saw as well and retain the 7 ¼ for hand held use.

During all the time I had my workcentre I have never converted to cross cut mode because removing the dust bag etc. is too much hassle. I suggest that you buy a cheap mitre saw from Bunnings for less than $ 55 instead.


So go with the simple one, if you like woodworking then assess your needs and buy accordingly. The most of the money spent on the compact can be recovered by resale as s/h Triton equipment retains its value.


Now I am not bagging Triton and I think their equipment is great BUT If I was starting out now and completely from scratch I would not go the Triton route by buying the workcentre and all the add-ons but go straight for a reasonable table saw.


Peter.


BTW I suggest you convert the dust bucket as per my conversion. Search the board for details. You won't regret doing the conversion.

PS. Gumby you beat me to the dustbucket mod.

I think you've missed one of the major benefits of the WC2000 over a dedicated saw Pete, portability. I'm always moving the thing around in the space I have and I take the extension table on and off as required. If I need lots of room to work the jointer, I just wheel the 2000 aside. Try that with a table saw, I dares ya!!

True, you can't pickup a table saw, even the contractor type, and take it in the back of the car to other sites.

However most people tend to leave it within their workshop. And within the shop I move mine around too. Thus a mobile base set for moving the table saw around the shop is available at reasonable cost.

Ofcourse what suits one may not suit another and I am definately not bagging Triton equipment. However it should be noted that the cost difference between the whole Triton route and dedicated tablesaws is no longer there. Thus I think the compact table is a good starter pack but if you want to improve it then seriously do the sums and see what is best for you.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Gumby

If you've gone that far, and purchased the router and table, then you definitely won't be happy with a compact.

I have to take issue with you on that one.

I have a Triton router table, and a Compact saw table which suits me down to the ground............ I have been using the CST for two years now and I cannot see any reason why I would need to change to the 2000......... I have an extension table and have built a crosscut sled and a mitre sled which have given me what I need. It seems to me that those advocating the 2000 are those who own a 2000. So I am taking the same tack............

The Newcastle Triton club has a great setup here with a couple of 2000s that I use from time to time and of course I recognise that the 2000 can cut a larger sheet size than the CST but if I need a sheet cut I get the supplier to cut it down to a usable size.......... Other than that my CST is great for me (Triton saw fitted of course)

I bought a Powered Saw Table on last week for myself and no need to move to 2000 model or 9-1/2 triton saw for making sea kayak strip wood is 6mm thickness. I have old 'hitachi' 7-1/4" circular saw is 24 year old now.