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Thread: The Protractor
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23rd July 2007, 10:31 AM #1
The Protractor
Hi all,
I am somewhat bothered by the protractor and the fact that I have to bash it to make it work. I feel that when you purchase product that it should be working from the word go. Now I am an amateur carpenter and have tried to the best of my ability to do what is shown in the training video and still cant get the damn thing to slide.
Does anybody share the same sentiment?
I have noted many suggestions to build a crosscut sled to overcome the problem. Although I will I am still disappointed.
The other queston I have is do many triton users remove the guides for the protractor on either side of the saw blade or must they stay in. If I make a saw sled then I dont think they are needed and I will have more flexibility with my jigs to slide up and down these openings. I am actually not sure if they can be removed. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
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23rd July 2007, 05:46 PM #2
Bashing the protractor to get it to work is NOT NORMAL!!
I assume you have rotated the pointer to the unlock position (and not necessarily just so it points at the symbol but rotate it all the way in that direction). Otherwise - if new, warranty defect it (ie get them to send you a new one). If you are Melbourne, and are near Cheltenham, take it in to Triton and get a replacement there and then. Having to bash it is not right, and yours is the first I have ever heard was that bad.
Crosscut sled isn't specifically to overcome the non-sliding protractor, although it will. It is more to save having to covert between the 2 table modes, and provide a much higher level of accuracy. In saying that however, I've never gotten around to making one.
The guides are not mandatory, but I wouldn't remove them. The main use I have of the protractor, is as a pressure finger during ripping operations, where it is locked in position in the track. When the protractor slides (as every other one I've ever come across does!), then it is convenient for a quick crosscut, without having to use the extension table, convert to crosscut mode, or get out the crosscut sled.
A couple of us have looked at the idea of converting the channels to the standard track for tablesaws, but have concluded that it just isn't feasible.
Have another look at that protractor, 'cause what you are experiencing has (to my knowledge) never been reported before. Are you sure you are unlocking it?"Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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23rd July 2007, 08:14 PM #3
Hi Stuart,
Definitely in the inlocked position. BTW I am not "bashing" the protractor as such. I am following the same method pretty much as shown on the video to adjust the guide to fit in the track.
I will give it another go on the weekend. If this fail I will contact triton in Sydney to see how to go.
Thanks for he advice anyhow, it is much appreciated.
Regards,
buballo
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24th July 2007, 01:19 AM #4
I think I understand now - you mean the method of having to hammer 'dimples' into the side to get a tighter fit in the track.
This is a pretty standard practice- and Triton didn't invent it. It has been used on mitre gauges running in T Track for a very long time on all sorts of table saws.
There are only a few mitre gauge manufacturers who do something different to avoid having to take this step - Incra (who use a cam to take out slack, and possibly Kreg (not so sure). Some use hex screws (can't remember their real name), but the rest rely on the 'bashing' technique.
Remember, (and only if I have guessed correctly about what you are referring to), 'bashing' dimples into the runner makes it tighter in the slot, not looser. So if you are finding the protractor too tight, you need to sand/file the dimples down."Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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24th July 2007, 09:45 AM #5
Again, thanks for your time Stuart.
I will give it a go this weekend, hopefully it I will work it out.
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25th July 2007, 01:51 AM #6Novice
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Does anybody share the same sentiment?
I have a new saw table with the exact same problem. I have tried everything including nearly half a can of wd40 but it just wont move down the track. It works fine on one track but not on the other one. I haven't had time to take it back to the hardware shop but I will soon. But I will be interested to see if you can overcome the problem
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25th July 2007, 02:11 AM #7
Works fine on one track but not the other? Now that is a problem that I wouldn't accept either.
I've been lucky, in that every piece of Triton gear I've bought (which is a fair amount) has always been up to standard. Actually, most Tritoneers I know haven't had a problem so it's probably more accurate to say that you've been unlucky.
Unless standards are slipping now that Triton's been taken over? I hope not...
- Andy Mc
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26th July 2007, 01:39 AM #8
Not an issue I would think - the stockpile of Triton tabletops etc is probably still not exhausted from Hills days!
(Don't know if that's actually true btw, but I don't expect there is any compromise in tolerances of the tabletops / runners)"Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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