Thread: The best way to recondition Triton equipment

John, unless the paint spots are to such a degree that they are effecting the movment of work across the table top, I would be tempted to maybe use a little cutting compound on the top. then resurface with some car polish, preferably one with a low silicone content.

the sandpaper on the miter, well it could be simpiler to cut some emery paper to size and attach that.

The chassis upgrade and height winder are always a good move, if you could afford it the triton saw would also be a good investment.

Manuals and videos??? this is where the old computer programmer comes out in me, manuals should only be used when you had trouble leveling the table, place one book under the offending side.

Kev

Hi John,

Congratulation on an excellent find.

1) for the paint spray, I thought of some gentle steel wool or wet&dry paper, followed by a good dose of wd40. Good idea?

You can purchase a new table top (last I checked it was around $40). The table top has also been updated where its more stable now and does'n tilt left and right. Improving on the accuracy of your cuts.

2) the mdf on the crosscut fence has had it, but is easy enough to replace.

Correect.

3) the sandpaper edges on the mitre triangle have gone. Do Triton sells replacements, or do I just use some self-adhesive sandpaper?

Triton sells it thru their parts department. You can purchase another Triangle as well (about $20).


4) it's an early model wc2000. I am thinking that a chassis upgrade and height winder kit is a wise $100 investment. Good idea?

Absolutely! Once you start using the height winder you'll understand why.

5) he couldn't find his manual or video. Does Triton sell replacement manuals? Or is one available on the web somewhere?


Triton will supply the hard copy manual for free. (I never thought to ask Triton to put the manual on their web page.) And you can get the video as well. (don't know the cost)

6) generally, what else should I check (in terms of assembly and squareness)? Without the manual, it's hard to know if it's set up properly. I guess this could be answered by 5) above.

Correct. The manual and video outlines everything step-by-step and has further instructions on how to actually put it to proper use.

I agree with Kev in strongly suggesting you purchase the Trition Precision Saw with all the money you saved. (I am so jelous! )

I must say I am very excited by my find, and can't wait to get it cleaned up and firing! So I'd appreciate any information.
John.[/B][/QUOTE]

Be sure to have a look here:
http://www.triton.net.au/front.html




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Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen

Thanks for the help so far. The turps and steel wool is working wonders. I bought the height winder and new chassis too, and (dammit) I also caved in and bought the Triton saw. I haven't fitted it yet because I want to finish the clean up first (and I don't want to get turps on my new saw), but I did use it freehand on the weekend. It splintered my veneer so now I want to upgrade my blade... the costs never end

Kev, can you explain why it's important to use low-silicon polish for the table?

Barry, regards getting a new table: I've looked in the stores and can't really tell the difference between my table and the new ones. They still only lock in with those 2 pins. What exactly did Triton "improve"? There IS a tiny bit of up&down movement of the table, but I'm not sure if that's normal.

Finally, regarding parts and service from Triton. Are you saying they can supply ANY part I need (e.g. I am missing bolt x on part y) Or will they only supply the whole kits?

I beliebve they have moved the table latch on the table top. Either up or down a millimeter or two which I have confirmed that it does help.

It's my belief this movement plays a large part in the accuracy on my cuts.

Get the series number from the workcentre and ring Triton to see if yours has the new table design or not. Mention that your table wobbles and they might trade you.

They do sell every component seperately and also sell the packaging kits (all the little components that make up something together).

You can see all the parts on each product from their Spare Parts page on their web site (previously noted).

I always like to ring them to make sure they have it in stock before actually going down. You can also ask them to send them to you via post.

The veneer is usually cut 2 to 3 mills wide then cleaned up with the table router or the planner attachment.



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Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen

The reason I suggested low silicone polish (if there is such a beast) is that I have heard reports that timber and silicone dont realy go together. I think it has something to do with staining the timber? Maybe Shane can shed more light on that for us?

No cracks from Stoppers,etc about 2 litres of petrol etc yet?

Gooday,

You should never ever not no how let silicon (any slicone) contact timber or anything else that requires a finish unless you really love a challenge.

Capiche

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

Hmmmm...
I went to a local Triton demo today. One of the things he did was spray the mitre rail with Selleys Ezi-Slide (or whatever it's called). I asked if you could use WD40 instead, and he said "No, WD40 attracts the dust and clogs. Use a silicon spray like this one".
So he's either told me something very bad, or the Selleys doesn't really contain silicon.
Any comments?

Progress with the reconditioning today:
The turps and steel wool worked so well, I got a really nice smooth table top. It was so smooth that I could then notice some slight bubbling of the enamel in places. Some investigation with a blade, and the enamel fell away to reveal the rust...
Before I have to go buy a new table top, is there a way to repair the damage?
I already removed as much rust as I could with steel wool, then painted the remainder with some old rust converter I had. I then sprayed over with some metal primer.
This is where my metalwork knowledge stops. Before I finish with an enamel top coat, I want to sand and recoat the primer. I was thinking wet&dry, but since this is a rust problem, the last thing I want to do is apply more water.
So do I just dry sand it? Or use w&d with turps as the wetting agent? Or some other liquid?
I know this isn't exactly a Triton subject, but if the repairs last a just couple of years it will be worth it. It may help others extend the life of their Triton.

Gooday.

I went to a local Triton demo today. One of the things he did was spray the mitre rail with Selleys Ezi-Slide (or whatever it's called). I asked if you could use WD40 instead, and he said "No, WD40 attracts the dust and clogs. Use a silicon spray like this one".
So he's either told me something very bad, or the Selleys doesn't really contain silicon.
Any comments?

Ok, he is cutting timber and trying to make the product look good. He doesn't have to put a finish on at the end of the project. He is also right about the WD 40.

The turps and steel wool worked so well, I got a really nice smooth table top. It was so smooth that I could then notice some slight bubbling of the enamel in places. Some investigation with a blade, and the enamel fell away to reveal the rust...
Before I have to go buy a new table top, is there a way to repair the damage?

I used to own a triton mk3. This is what I did to a brand new top. Sanded as much of the paint off as I could. Sprayed it with 2 coats of N/C lacquer, rubbing back with a chux (pink) scourer between coats. Put SIEBERGLEITZ on and had no probs with sticking or binding for 3 years. Siebergleitz is a preparation especially made for applying to metal surfaces for wood contact that has to slide eg jointers, saw benches, thicknessers etc.

Sand out your rust spots and leave the table as it is because unless you can bake the enamel coat on it will 'drag' on the timber. You should be using the thing that much that it won't get a chance to rust. If you want to see how machines are supposed to look after being used have a look at the tables on a well used jointer or cast iron saw bench, that is what I call Patina.

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

and hope it doesnt resemble a lathe once its blue

Triton have more sense than to make a BLUE lathe...

Orange,YEP good thing, BLUE YUCK!

Doorstop. You gotta let go! Nothing can bring it back. Open another bottle of the Coonared (Zemas) of course and drown your sorrow.
RIP.
John H.

If you're going to post your in-jokes on my topic, at least explain them so that I can join in!

John,

Read through some past postings for this one.

Do a search using BBBL as the topic.

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"