Repair of Triton TRA001 Router

**georgevic** · 5th August 2014, 09:50 PM

Hi All,

I'm after some assistance with my triton Router TRA001 which stop working.
Prior to working it required a tap or so (when installed on the router table) resulting in some
sparking in the casing and then it would commence operating.

I had a look at the brushes and noticed only one brush had some slight wear on the side of
the brush. I've spoken to a carbatec rep. and he advised on checking the brush holders and connectors.

I dismantled the router and had a look at the brush holders and did not see any evidence
of corrosion or discolouration to indicate a reason for the difference in one brush.
I also checked that the voltage at the brush holders to verify
the switch mechanism and the speed controller are ok.

I then checked the resistance of the armature which was at a consistent value of 1 ohm. I
believe this may be typical? or too low. Either way with all components in place (i.e. brushes)
a measured voltage of round 230VAC is present across the brushes, with no movement of the armature
occurring??

Any advise on how to progress my fault finding process would be appreciated!!!

**A Duke** · 5th August 2014, 10:31 PM

Hi,
I had sparking and all the symptoms of worn brushes on mine but the brushes had plenty left (I was a sparky) so I looked closer and found the ware on the sides of the brushes, so I replaced them and away it went. The worn brushes rock sideways and jam.
Hope that's all your problem is.
Regards

**georgevic** · 6th August 2014, 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by A Duke

Hi,
I had sparking and all the symptoms of worn brushes on mine but the brushes had plenty left (I was a sparky) so I looked closer and found the ware on the sides of the brushes, so I replaced them and away it went. The worn brushes rock sideways and jam.
Hope that's all your problem is.
Regards

Thanks for you reply.

What I forgot to mention in my original post, is that I also replaced the brushes with new ones and cleaned the commutator on the armature with some fine sandpaper (P600).
I can't recall seeing any significant sideways movement of the brushes on both the new and old brushes, but will recheck.

Regards

**maggs** · 6th August 2014, 10:14 AM

If you happen to take the armature out again it would be a good idea to give the commutator a bit of an undercut also. I use an old hacksaw blade and sharpen it up to be slightly less then the width of the commutator slots. Scrape out between the copper segments being careful to not slip and damage the ends where the windings join.

A build up of carbon and copper dust from brush and commutator wear can cause shorted segments and cause sparking to occur. Typically the insulation between segments should be at least 1 mm below the copper segments.

Steve

**georgevic** · 6th August 2014, 10:35 PM

DSC_3139.jpg DSC_3138.jpg DSC_3137.jpg DSC_3136.jpg
I have had a second look at the armature and all seems fine with regard
to spacing between the copper bars. I've taken a few photos and would
like a second opinion on its status.

I've also measure the field winding at around 1.3 ohms.

Regards

**Evanism** · 7th August 2014, 12:14 AM

This is a tricky one. There is not much left.

One would assume the bearings are still good and the whole armature spins freely without the brushes in?

The only thing left is the speed control mechanism. Since its all black-gooped, the only option is to replace the spaghetti. A dude in the UK sells them for a decent price.

**maggs** · 7th August 2014, 07:28 AM

+1 on the most likely suspect now being the speed control. I'm not aware of an easy way to test these other than swap it out.

Other things to check are the continuity of the power lead. Connect your ohm meter on the active on the plug and find where the end is on the speed control and give the cable a good physical workout while keeping an eye on the meter. Repeat on the neutral cable. If your meter has a continuity buzzer this helps hear a problem.

Another thing to eliminate is to get a repair shop to test the armature with a growler. Testing with a meter doesn't always reveal all.

Steve

**rayintheuk** · 17th August 2014, 06:07 AM

Can you recall if the router has ever stalled during operation? If yes, then I'd say the windings are the prime suspect. If you're certain that it has never stalled, then the speed control seems to be the only option left.

Ray

**georgevic** · 21st August 2014, 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Can you recall if the router has ever stalled during operation? If yes, then I'd say the windings are the prime suspect. If you're certain that it has never stalled, then the speed control seems to be the only option left.

Ray

Thanks for the info Ray.
Can't recall it ever stalling. With regard to the speed controller i always use the router on the table and at full speed.

Can the speed controller be removed without affecting safe operation of the unit?

How can this be best done as I've noticed the connectors are tightly held with clear insulation.

Thanks in advance

**Evanism** · 21st August 2014, 04:16 PM

They are all just push in electrical clips. The whole speed control is a sealed unit and if its to be replaced, it must be done as a unit.

This is what it looks like: http://www.toolsparesonline.com/prod...ller-230v.aspx

**rayintheuk** · 21st August 2014, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by georgevic

Can the speed controller be removed without affecting safe operation of the unit?

This is not something I've ever tried, but I have read that if you TRANSPOSE THE TWO BROWN WIRES ON SWITCH, i.e., swap the position of the two brown wires with each other (same side of switch), this will turn the speed control to ON/OFF only. As I said, I've not tried it, but it might be worth a shot.

A new speed controller can be sourced from http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/6407-speed-controller-230v.aspx They will do mail order.

HTH?

Ray

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