Thread: Router

Originally Posted by KnockOnWood

Hi. I am pretty much sold on paying the extra price and getting a Triton Router the question should I fork out a bit more ($360) and buy the heavy duty TRA001model or pay $280 for the lighter smaller 1400 MOF001 model. The lighter the better for hand held and storage I guess but what about performance and value for money? Do they both perform more or less the same? Your feedback welcomed. Thanks in advance.

I can't really answer your question KnockOnWood, but I hope the consensus is that the MOF001 is adequate for most work, as I bought one only last night I haven't had a chance to turn it on yet, and it is my first ever router, but it sure does feel solid enough for anything I'm ever going to want to do. My only problem now is making or finding a router table - I had bought a Ryobi table on the weekend for $75, but it turns out that the mounting holes don't line up (even though the shop assistant assured me they would all be standard ).

jcostab

Buy the smaller router and spend the extra money on the template accessory kit.

That will give you the height winder handle if you mount it in a table. The template following bushes can then be used with jigs and letter kits and dovetail jigs.

I bought a Router "table" for the 2000 Workbench (sight unseen for $20plus $25 freight - total $45 from NSW) in new condition. I hope it was good value. Does the winding handle come with the Template kit or the Router or table?

How much did you pay for your router? I have seen them on sale for $280. I am keen to buy but waiting to determine from which source. eBay second hand or if possible a great package deal new. I would also be keen, assuming Triton will survive, in organising a wood working workshop/display in Melbourne at a prime location and it would be good to have Triton as the main sponsor.. more on this when the event takes shape.

Originally Posted by blackhole

Buy the smaller router and spend the extra money on the template accessory kit.

That will give you the height winder handle if you mount it in a table. The template following bushes can then be used with jigs and letter kits and dovetail jigs.

Make sure you get the kit for the small router.It has the handle. I paid $46 for template kit ( the kit also fits the large router,but it also has handle for small router.Will be hard to find now though.You asked how much we paid for the router.Well Bunnys ,several months ago ,cleared the small one for $99 would you believe?
Boxmaker

Search is your friend. There are a couple of good threads discussing the two. I have both. The smaller one is adequate and lighter, the bigger one has more grunt, as you would expect.

The larger one doesn't accept the triton winder handle, but PWS has a kit for adding one to it.

So if you can only have 1 router the mof is probably a better option. If you now own a smaller router or intend buying one someday the tra is possibly a better bet.

When I got my tra the difference was only about 50-60. I then got the mof at 99. With an $80 diff I'd probably go the mof, YMMV.

If you bought a rta300 for $45 shipped that's a huge bargain. They are $190ish new. I could never figure on mine how the mof handle would penetrate the top, maybe you have to drill. Same problem for other tables. Not a big prob for mdf or plastic, and aluminium if you don't mind drilling holes in a $100+ insert, but my table is cast iron and I'm not inclined to drill it. Personally I see no need for a winder, but maybe I'm less stiff than some...

If your main need is a table router you might look at the lifters and just buy a power head router. Have a good shop round though as prices and quality vary on the router lifts.

$280 is about the right price for the small and $380 for big.

You will need to drill a hole in the router table top to poke the height winder through.
I paid $75 for my accessory kit.

Originally Posted by damian

The larger one doesn't accept the triton winder handle, but PWS has a kit for adding one to it.

What/who is PWS?

$99 That is a huge difference in price. I would buy both if I could get that sort of discount. And have a dedicated Router table with stepper motors fitted. I am concerned about having to drill a hole,. I thought the table and router were geared up for this attachment.

I will have to spend more time looking as the add on extra's can add a lot to the price paid. I am looking at spending 1000 to 1,500 to get what I want in the beginning.Power tools will be the most costly. But $99... I am in shock. Where and what is PWS.

I paid $288 for my MOF last night, at Bunnings in Epping. I took the last one at Epping, but I know that Northland, Coburg and Thomastown all have them in stock for the same price. I think that perhaps the $99 price was when Bunnings thought they wouldn't be stocking Triton any more - they don't seem to be keen to discount any more.

I'm jealous of your $45 Triton router table! I'll have to keep my eyes peeled now, or possibly try to make my own. Does anyone know if there's any way of attaching the Triton router to a Ryobi router table? The table seems quite okay for the $75 I paid for it, just that the srew holes don't line up. The table top is cast Aluminium, so it seems a bit sturdier than the Triton and has a standard type mitre slot cut into it. I'll probably keep it and use the mitre guage, fence and power switch if I decide to try and build my own table.

Eltham has one.

I also saw this unit on eBay.(located in NSW) Shipping should be anywhere between $10 to $25 Auction closes 23-Jan-09 15:21:33 AEDST

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=220346866943

Originally Posted by blackhole

What/who is PWS?

Professional Woodworkers Supplies

One of our sponsors run by Graham & Marita Watterson

Maybe you should take a step back and consider what your trying to achieve. I see a lot of people just buying stuff willy nilly without a plan. You've done well on the router table, but it's useless buying cheap if it doesn't serve your purpose.

So: What are you trying to achieve ? and what do you already have ?

I have just returned form a long stay OS and am looking at setting up my workspace from scratch. I am an IT professional but studied Architecture as a student many years back. I like the idea of a all up on stop designed system. Triton fits this bill. Yes I am in the process of finalising my plans which is why I joined the site to gain valuable insight into the pros and cons of using/adapting the Triton range. Thisngs like does the Plastic turn nobs break? What are the limitations of the tools and which ones are best under use. My use is primarily as a home based furnituremaking and house renovation. (My part time passion between IT contracts) My brother has also just brought a studio workshop and I am trying to look at how best to complement his space and design layout. Being an Architect by training I assure you I am very much looking at the design of my workshop.

Yep, that's probably not what I meant.

Specifically the plastic gear can strip if you don't remove the spring when table mounting. There is a thread about that. The advantages of each are covered above, broadly.

What I meant was: if you make 6" square boxes your needs are different to renovating a house. If you tell us which your planning to do we can better suggest specific issues and things to consider.

Triton is a carpenters tool. I've argued long and hard that it's acurate, it's just to achieve an accurate cut you have to make more effort to get everything just right. The pressed steel can flex, the rta tops are sometimes not flat. If your doing tiny accurate stuff that can make the work frustrating. If your coving skirting board, doesn't matter because it isn't an accurate fit.

If your profiling ironbark grunt matters, if your profiling tiny softwood bits it probably doesn't. That sort of thing.

The plastic bits on tritons are usually ok, but do require a little care. I eventually got frustrated by my triton stuff and sold on the tables. I retain the routers and respirator.

Furniture: if you want dovetails you'll need another tool. I had considered if the rta300 finger jointer could be pressed to cut dovetails but I'm not at all sure. If your satisfied with finger joints or other joints then no worries. I'm not sure how you'll produce a mortice and tennon, but I'm sure there is a way. You could make a jig to do it.

The rta fence is great, but doesn't fit the 2000. It does happen to fit the mk3, and I used it on mine. The mk3 fence is pretty ordinary but the w2000 fence is said to be quite good.

Hopefully that helps.