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7th October 2004, 12:09 AM #1
Router Lifter (Ryobi and others?)
I noticed when looking through the postings that there are a few people interested in Router Lifters, so I thought I would post mine.
Parts required
Aprox. 100mm of .25" Whitworth threaded brass rod.
1 X .25Whit. halfnut
A 15-20mm length of 25mm X25mm X 3mm angle iron (or similar size)
1 X 10mm long hex head bolt of the same thread as your router handle bolt.
Tools required
Silver soldering torch (or lead soldering equip. at a pinch)
Drill bits and power drill
.25" Whitworth tap and tap handle
Hacksaw
Method
Remove the router handle that does not have the power switch on it.
The angle iron is drilled on one face to take the 10mm bolt with identical thread to the router handle retaining bolt thread . The other face of the angle iron is drilled and tapped (.25"Whit.)
Bolt the angle iron to the router in place of the router handle and screw the threaded rod through it and down to the router plate.
Mark the plate where the rod contacts it when the rod is perfectly perpendicular to the plate. Make sure that this position will be accessable for adjustments when the router fence is installed. (if this is an issue, you should be able to rotate the router on its mounts to a new position on the Triton plate to aleviate the problem) Drill a small pilot hole through both Triton plates. Seperate the two Triton plates and drill the plate that holds the router slightly larger than .25".
Drill the second (top) plate to accept a screwdriver through it.
Remove the brass rod from the angle iron bracket and Silver solder the halfnut to the end of the rod. When it has cooled, cut a slot across the halfnut with a hacksaw suitable for a screwdriver to engage Re-assemble the two Triton plates, with the head of the brass bolt you just made, between them, sticking through to where the router mounts onto the plate.
Unscrew the bracket from the router and screw it onto the threaded rod, then re-attach the bracket to the router. Line up the bracket with the hole by rotating the router to the exact position it was in originally.
Apply some heavy oil to the thread on the rod and you are finished.
It may lack the sophistication of the one you can buy from America, but it is a hell of a lot cheaper and it works really well.
If anyone wants one but can't make it for whatever reason, message me.
The following is a list of requirements
The router needs to slide up and down reasonable smoothley when pushed from one side only, that being the side that the bracket mounts to.
There obviously needs to be an uninhibited path from the handle bolt hole to the plate.
Note
If for some reason you need to have the threaded rod further from the router body, you will need wider angle iron for the bracket.
Good Luck
First pic shows the hole through which the screwdriver is inserted to operate the lifter. The other pics show the mechanism of the lifter.
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7th October 2004 12:09 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th March 2009, 10:26 PM #2New Member
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Thanks Phil,
I have just bought one of these Ryobi Routers and have been agonizing over how to make a lifter without major changes. I didn't realise the handle would come off and leave me a nice mounting block for a lifter. I don't have a Triton mounting plate but I will build a plate that can mount like the fence in the rod holes of the base plate to pull against the angle iron at the top.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Peter
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9th March 2009, 10:14 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Nice and simple which is what I like. I did something a bit similar on my old router, but it was only adjustable from underneath
Would there be enough room instead of using the half nut to use an allen headed bolt, which could then be added to the end of the threaded rod with a sleeve. If so the right size would let you use the winder from the tablesaw.
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10th March 2009, 07:32 PM #4New Member
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- New Zealand
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My DIY Ryobi Lifter
Thanks to Phil for his post showing his design. It gave me the Idea for my design. I hope it helps others. A picture is worth a 1000 words so I have taken plenty of photo's.
Both angle iron parts are 30mm x 30mm.
The 2 Stems are 10mm rod turned down in the lathe to 8mm to fit the router base but left at 10mm at the Angle Iron end and tapped for 3/16 torx screws.
The allthread, bolt, coupling nuts, nuts, and torx screw are all 8mm.
The Bearing is a 608 skate board bearing.
The Torx screw is adjusted to the required height by using the nut against the bearing and locking it against the coupling nut.
When finally in place the nut height will be just below the table surface.
Cheers
Peter