Thread: Router Stand Wheels

There are wheels for the WC 2000 and I'm pretty sure there are also wheels for the compact saw. The router table is so easy to move I don't see why you need wheels for it anyway but if you must have them, you should be able to just drill the right holes.

The problem will be when you want to transport your router table to another site (if you ever do) and the legs slide into the holes in the ends of the table, which makes it easy to carry the whole thing together. If you put wheels on it, you won't be able to do this without taking them off again.

I'd give it a fair bit of thought before drilling into a nice new table leg myself. Use it for a while and see if you really need the wheels. You'll most likely find that you don't.

yep I know it's easy to lift but due to space constraints I gotta move it EVERY time I want to use the TS so wheels will be easier. Just saw the small print on the triton website....for the router stand and small saw table is wheels part number AWA100 not AWA200 as for the WC. I think they clamp on so they can be easier removed if I want to stick the legs in the sides of the RT.


Thanks for the reply Gumby

Reg

Reg

This might interest you,

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....384168928&rd=1

Tim

thanks Tim, good find. I'll keep an eye on it

Reg

You only need to put two wheels on one end to make it easy to moove out of your way, this may be of assistance

regards Mike

I used the WC2000 wheels but drilled holes in the legs of the router stand. They are better than the router version of the wheels

i think barrys idea of drilling holes to mount the wc2000 wheels on the router stand is good, they go under the table and dont stick out like the tablesaw/router stand legs, one less thing to trip over in the workshop.

what are the measurements of where the holes are from the bottom of the legs on the WC? I'll put the flip down wheels on but don't have a WC to go off.

Cheers
Reg

Reg,

Back when I added the retractable wheels to the 2000WC, the assembly sheet actually had a para about using the AWA200 wheels on the Router Stand. I've just checked the Triton site and it's now not on the multi-lingual version of the sheet that's presumably in the box you bought.

Here's the gist of what it says:

1. Remove the rear legs from the Router Stand.
2. Drill 6.5mm (1/4") holes as shown in the diagram. (There is a warning given that you must measure, mark, centrepop and drill from each side of the leg rather than attempt to drill right through both walls in one operation, and also to pilot drill with a smaller drill first. I guess this is because accuracy is important for the folding action.)

The diagram shows the two 6.5mm hole centres being located 18.5mm and 88.5mm from the end of the leg (ie 70 mm apart) measured from the bottom end of the metal tube not from the bottom of the rubber foot. The holes APPEAR to be centred on the side of the leg, but in case they aren't (and I think the rear legs on the Router Stand are fatter than the WC legs) the diagram shows them being located 15mm in from the front face of the leg (the side the wheel is located).

Hope this is clear, but if not post again and I'll scan the diagram and put it up for you.

Swaggie.

Thanks very much swag, that's what I was after. All makes sense. Sounds like a drill press job not the cordless.
I didn't see anything like that on the bit of paper in the box...

Cheers
Redgy

Mine are drilled at 18mm & 88mm and I attached them to the front wheels as I have a mini sliding table arm attached and the long end of the arm is at the back so it is easier to move around.
I am also thinking of moving my WC wheels to the front as I have a Maxi arm on them.

Reg,

Barry's post made me think again about what I said previously. It may be that the instructions I was quoting might have related to the previous model router table (if there was a difference that is). I've attached a pic of the diagram from the AWA200 assembly sheet that was supplied in the box at the time I installed my wheels - probably about 3 years ago??

In any event, I went out to the shed and looked closely at the wheels on the WC and the legs on the RS. The thicker (rear) RS legs are 35mm square (outside dimension) while the thinner (front) ones are 30mm square. The WC legs are also 30mm square. ALSO...the rubber feet on the rear RS legs are quite different to the feet on the front legs. They go over, and extend well up the leg, whereas the feet on the front legs are pushed into the ends much like those on the WC. Putting the bottom hole at 18.5mm (as per diagram) on the rear leg would leave it covered by the rubber foot, and putting it high enough to avoid the rubber foot might mean the wheel wouldn't reach the ground when engaged downwards. So putting them on the front (thinner) legs as Barry suggests might be the go.

Another point. Earlier, someone mentioned that if you attach wheels to the RS legs, you can't stow the legs into the square holes for transporting e.g. in a car boot. If you attach them to the REAR legs this would be true. But if they are put on the front legs as Barry suggests (with holes at 18mm and 88mm as per the diagram), and then drill a new hole further up the leg for the locating lug to engage with, you should still be able to stow them inside the rear legs - they'll stick out a bit more, but they'll still be secure enough for transport purposes if the new hole is in the right place.

Swagman.

Hope this helps

Thanks for the extra info & piccys guys. I was looking at the back legs thinking what will I do about the rubber feet & came to the same conclusion that the front end might be better. Plus the width will be right for the brackets...after a "dry" assembly on the back legs they were at a funny angle & looked a bit poxy so the front legs are the winner.

Cheers
Reg