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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    3

    Default Router table - guard collides with fence face

    Greetings all - I'm assembling a triton router table. There is a metal fence of course and on the front of the metal fence you have to fit 2 X mdf fence faces. No problem with this. At the centre of the fence you put the transparent plastic rear guard around the router bit. You can then slide the mdf fence faces sideways so that they lie close to the router bit, giving maximum support to the work. Triffic.

    The thing is, the vertical side edges of the rear guard stick out just a bit proud of the metal fence, so that when you try to move the mdf fence faces towards the centre, the ends hit the plastic of the guard and are forced out, so that they are no longer parallel and in a straight line. I could just grind/sand the round vertical edges of the guard, but I thought i would ask if maybe I did something wrong. I can't really see what that might be though. Has anyone else had the same thing.

    Now I'm a newbie at router tables, so - another question. Let's say you are routering a tongue/groove edge into a slab. You push the piece along the fence face, past the router bit, but as the bit removes full thickness, the slab will no longer meet the fence face on the far side - there will have to be a gap and that side will not be supported. Then as you come to the end of the slab, things can get unstable and you get an uneven cut. If you are rebating, everything is fine, but not if you cut full height. I saw the bit about shimming the far face and using a straight edge, and that would help. You could use a planing jig that supports the left side of the piece and just run the slab past the router bit that way, so I guess I am just asking if in practice most people use the fence mostly for grooving and rebating and a planing jig for other work?
    Thanks, Turlough

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Portland Vic. Australia.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    289

    Default

    G'day Turlough, I cant help with the fence , but as far as the tongue and groove is concerned I think you need to look at how much of the bit is proud of the fence. I had the same problem with my T&G bit and found that when the bottom cutter was flush with the fence it all worked a treat.
    hope this helps. Cheers Steven.
    Last edited by Stevenp; 4th September 2007 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Missed a word
    The hurrier I go, the behinder I get.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Gidday Turlough - welcome!

    Second part first: With your router table fence came 4 bits of black plastic that are bent at the top to 90 degrees, and have 2 fingers. 2 have 1 knob at the end, the other two have two knobs.

    The single knobbed ones are 1mm thick shims,
    The double knobbed ones are 1.5mm thick.

    On the outfeed side, you pull the MDF fence out exposing a gap between the MDF and the metal, and fit the shim down over the bolt. This means that the MDF outfeed fence is now 1mm (or 1.5mm) forward of the infeed.

    When setting up for a planing pass, align the fence so the outfeed is exactly inline with the tip of the router bit. When you feed your workpiece in, 1mm of the router bit that is exposed will do the cut, and the workpiece will then feed fully supported down the outfeed fence.

    If you are using a tongue and groove bit, then ensure that for the groove cut, that the outfeed fence is aligned to support each side of the groove, and vice versa for the tongue piece. (Which is another way of saying what Steve was referring to).

    I think you'll find that this is how most people would use the table, so long as they have an independently adjustable outfeed fence.

    I will have to get a fence out to have a look to see what you mean with your first question. As an initial reaction, no - you shouldn't need to remove any material at all - never heard anyone needing to before.

    First thought - you do know that the position of the guard is easily adjusted in and out by loosening the knob on top of the guard assembly? You can set the vertically sliding guard quite a bit forward, and should easily clear the MDF fence.

    Any chance of a photo or two showing the problem?
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    3

    Default Thanks for the help.

    Thanks for the answers. Things are working well now - I've been playing around with a joining bit (http://www.apworkshop.com.au/html_ro...7-jb-tagb.html) and the results are just great.
    Turl

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    536

    Default Square the Router fence up

    Though things seem to be working now, for punters who come across the problem of the guard fouling the MDF fences due to it sitting proud of the metal fence, I receive a few clls about this, usually from people mid way through assembly. Later on in the manual, you are instructed to square the fence to the table, using the adjustment screws on the back side of the fence.

    In almost all cases, once thisis done, the guard no longer sits proud of the fence and the problem is solved.

    I say "almost" all cases, in case it doesn't, though in every case I have delt with, this has solved the probelm.

    Cheers!

    Steve

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    3

    Default Thanks again

    yes I did read about that and no, I didn't do it So now I will and we'll see how it goes. Turl.

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