Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Central West, NSW
    Age
    49
    Posts
    91

    Default Router Table RTA300 Assembly

    I have recently purchased a second hand router table. The previous owner had a Triton router, sadly my finances do not stretch that far and I have to resort to the second hand Makita he thru in with the deal.

    As such I am setting it up for a non-Triton router for the 1st time.

    The parts he gave me are excluding the small insert ring and the alignment tool.

    Is the small insert ring only used for aligning the router and if so does anybody know of a workaround?

    Cheers.

    PS. I am guessing the alignment is paramount to the setup.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Thumbs up

    the small insert ring is needed for most routing jobs, the big ring is only used with cutters too big for the small ring. some people have made their own rings but i would suggest that you contact triton or your local distributor and buy both items or borrow them from someone close by. centring the cutter in the table will be difficult without these 2 items which will make aligning the fence interesting but not impossible.

    DOnt use the clamps supplied to attach the router to the mounting plate for the table. instead, remove the plastic base from the makita router, use it as a template to find a location to drill holes to match those in the base of the router and then bolt the router base directly to the mounting plate. i was lucky and got the holes right first time but the backup plan was to drill them out oversized and use the clamp bases to centre the router as per the triton directions. theres more info on what i did in the thread below. and use cup head bolts instead of the countersunk ones that you take out of the router as these will self-centre in the oversized holes and make centring impossible. if theres anything not clear , just ask. it is so superior to the clamp system .

    Doug
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&page=1&pp=15

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Central West, NSW
    Age
    49
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Thanks Doug,

    Just to clarify (since the manual doesn't appear to be that clear), does the large ring stay permanently in the table? and does the small ring go in and out as required?

    If yes, what are the implications if I only use the large ring?

    Cheers,
    Matt.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Brisbane North
    Age
    51
    Posts
    1,299

    Default

    Matt,

    You use the large or small ring in the table depending on the diameter of the router bit you are using. The ring ads both support for your work piece near the router bit and helps with dust extraction. The smaller the gap around the bit the better as it allows the vacuum pipe going to what ever sort of dust extraction you use to suck as much as possible as it won't be falling through the gap.

    You don't need to centre the router, this is good if you want to use the scales to align the fence to the bit or if you are using the Biscuit Joiner then the scale of the Biscuit Joiner fence will be accurate. Centering isn't vital but is handy especially when planing. If you aren't sure about this I'd love to tell you but I have to log off now and go to the airport, SWMBO is coming home.

    Woody

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    I tend to only use the small ring for the initial alignment setup, then use the larger ring - seem to get better dust extraction.

    You fit one or the other- that will become very obvious once you get your hands on both rings.

    I don't see any real implications with only using the large ring- so long as you have support of the piece before and/or after the ring, the size of the hole won't be a problem. (Well I have had no problems with it, so can only speak from that point of view.)

    There is no real issue with accurately positioning the router on initial setup- it is not like having to set up a tablesaw. Eyechrometer is good enough.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Exclamation yes but....

    Quote Originally Posted by stuart_lees
    There is no real issue with accurately positioning the router on initial setup- it is not like having to set up a tablesaw. Eyechrometer is good enough.
    True, stuart , but wassy also needs to be advised that if he gets used to offsetting the fence a certain amount with a cutter thats not exactly cnetred, then if he takes the router mounting plate out of the table he better put it back in the same way or the cutter wont be back in the same place. yes theres only one right way to put the mounting plate back in and use the dust extraction guard but it will go in the other way and if its not truly centred there will be serious issues......

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Fair point. I was thinking about that when I was writing it, but as I always index the fence off the router bit rather than any table markings, I didn't see that as a problem. Granted that other people may not work in that way, it's a good thing some are watching my back

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug the slug
    the small insert ring is needed for most routing jobs, the big ring is only used with cutters too big for the small ring. some people have made their own rings but i would suggest that you contact triton or your local distributor and buy both items or borrow them from someone close by. centring the cutter in the table will be difficult without these 2 items which will make aligning the fence interesting but not impossible.

    DOnt use the clamps supplied to attach the router to the mounting plate for the table. instead, remove the plastic base from the makita router, use it as a template to find a location to drill holes to match those in the base of the router and then bolt the router base directly to the mounting plate. i was lucky and got the holes right first time but the backup plan was to drill them out oversized and use the clamp bases to centre the router as per the triton directions. theres more info on what i did in the thread below. and use cup head bolts instead of the countersunk ones that you take out of the router as these will self-centre in the oversized holes and make centring impossible. if theres anything not clear , just ask. it is so superior to the clamp system .

    Doug
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&page=1&pp=15
    It's that avatar again

    Forgive my inexperience, but'd I'd have thought that the main point about small Vs large insert rings is that, with a large ring and a small workpiece, there may not be sufficient vertical support. Even with a larger work-piece, the wrong level of manual pressure can make the piece dip (even just a bit) as it passes over the ring on the way to the other side; if depth of cut is important (and it usually is!), this may be an issue.

    Cheers!
    Steve B

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by stuart_lees
    as I always index the fence off the router bit rather than any table markings, I didn't see that as a problem.
    So do i usually stuart, its much safer and more accurate. it is a point cutter and not a linear cutter like the circular saw so it doesnt even matter if the fence is parallel to the rest of the table, unless you are using the built in slide or a jig, and even then the main use i have for the table markings is just to make sure the fence is parallel to the table. after all its only the centre of the bit that is accurately located by this means, and all cutters are different sizes. it is an important point to remember though

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Burnett Heads, QLD
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve.Bisson@te
    It's that avatar again

    Forgive my inexperience, but'd I'd have thought that the main point about small Vs large insert rings is that, with a large ring and a small workpiece, there may not be sufficient vertical support.
    Steve B
    Im right with you there steve, thats why in my post above i recommended the smallest ring that will fit over the cutter, so there is maximum support for the workpiece, however stuart did point out that he gets better dust extraction with the bigger ring. i guess its a compromise and we all have to make our decisions on a job by job basis. personally i havent even fitted the big ring to the table as ive not needed to swing a big cutter yet, but that day is coming (raised panel doors)

    Doug

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    You'll find with raised panel bits that you may not be able to use any ring at all to get the bit to fit!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Central West, NSW
    Age
    49
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Unfortunately I am also missing one straight pressure finger, so it appears my best bet will be to head down to Bunnings to see if they can supply these parts and a small insert ring. Then I can use some "trial and error" to see what works best for me.

    As for the alignment tool, I am sure a router bit of similar thickness will serve the purpose and will be considerably cheaper.

    Cheers,
    Matt

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    Pressure finger? Oh yeah, those things. Think I used one once.

    Going to make a few feather boards in the very near future - I'm sure they will be a lot more useful.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    6,786

    Default

    Yeah, pressure fingers. They came out of the box, went in the drawer and haven't seen daylight since :eek:
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Central West, NSW
    Age
    49
    Posts
    91

    Default

    G'day Stuart and Gumby,


    Are you suggesting that the straight pressure fingers (being the ones used on the table top itself) are not quite as useful as the manual attempts to make out?


    Can anybody please provide me the internal measurement on the small insert ring so I can attempt to make one myself?

    Cheers.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Design Problems with the Triton Router Table (2001) - RTA300
    By barrysumpter in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 19th November 2018, 08:43 AM
  2. Triton Router
    By chook in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 26th August 2008, 06:22 PM
  3. Setting up the GMC Fixed-based router in a table
    By derekcohen in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 13th February 2008, 12:45 AM
  4. Micro Adjuster on RTA300 Router Table
    By Gazza in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 28th June 2005, 02:34 PM
  5. World's Cheapes Router Insert
    By bitingmidge in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 8th June 2004, 08:26 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •