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Thread: Router Table RTA300 Assembly
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3rd July 2005, 07:02 PM #1Member
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Router Table RTA300 Assembly
I have recently purchased a second hand router table. The previous owner had a Triton router, sadly my finances do not stretch that far and I have to resort to the second hand Makita he thru in with the deal.
As such I am setting it up for a non-Triton router for the 1st time.
The parts he gave me are excluding the small insert ring and the alignment tool.
Is the small insert ring only used for aligning the router and if so does anybody know of a workaround?
Cheers.
PS. I am guessing the alignment is paramount to the setup.
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3rd July 2005, 07:21 PM #2Banned
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the small insert ring is needed for most routing jobs, the big ring is only used with cutters too big for the small ring. some people have made their own rings but i would suggest that you contact triton or your local distributor and buy both items or borrow them from someone close by. centring the cutter in the table will be difficult without these 2 items which will make aligning the fence interesting but not impossible.
DOnt use the clamps supplied to attach the router to the mounting plate for the table. instead, remove the plastic base from the makita router, use it as a template to find a location to drill holes to match those in the base of the router and then bolt the router base directly to the mounting plate. i was lucky and got the holes right first time but the backup plan was to drill them out oversized and use the clamp bases to centre the router as per the triton directions. theres more info on what i did in the thread below. and use cup head bolts instead of the countersunk ones that you take out of the router as these will self-centre in the oversized holes and make centring impossible. if theres anything not clear , just ask. it is so superior to the clamp system .
Doug
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&page=1&pp=15
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3rd July 2005, 08:39 PM #3Member
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Thanks Doug,
Just to clarify (since the manual doesn't appear to be that clear), does the large ring stay permanently in the table? and does the small ring go in and out as required?
If yes, what are the implications if I only use the large ring?
Cheers,
Matt.
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3rd July 2005, 08:53 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Matt,
You use the large or small ring in the table depending on the diameter of the router bit you are using. The ring ads both support for your work piece near the router bit and helps with dust extraction. The smaller the gap around the bit the better as it allows the vacuum pipe going to what ever sort of dust extraction you use to suck as much as possible as it won't be falling through the gap.
You don't need to centre the router, this is good if you want to use the scales to align the fence to the bit or if you are using the Biscuit Joiner then the scale of the Biscuit Joiner fence will be accurate. Centering isn't vital but is handy especially when planing. If you aren't sure about this I'd love to tell you but I have to log off now and go to the airport, SWMBO is coming home.
Woody
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3rd July 2005, 08:56 PM #5
I tend to only use the small ring for the initial alignment setup, then use the larger ring - seem to get better dust extraction.
You fit one or the other- that will become very obvious once you get your hands on both rings.
I don't see any real implications with only using the large ring- so long as you have support of the piece before and/or after the ring, the size of the hole won't be a problem. (Well I have had no problems with it, so can only speak from that point of view.)
There is no real issue with accurately positioning the router on initial setup- it is not like having to set up a tablesaw. Eyechrometer is good enough.
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3rd July 2005, 09:11 PM #6Banned
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yes but....
Originally Posted by stuart_lees
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3rd July 2005, 09:32 PM #7
Fair point. I was thinking about that when I was writing it, but as I always index the fence off the router bit rather than any table markings, I didn't see that as a problem. Granted that other people may not work in that way, it's a good thing some are watching my back
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3rd July 2005, 09:44 PM #8Originally Posted by doug the slug
Forgive my inexperience, but'd I'd have thought that the main point about small Vs large insert rings is that, with a large ring and a small workpiece, there may not be sufficient vertical support. Even with a larger work-piece, the wrong level of manual pressure can make the piece dip (even just a bit) as it passes over the ring on the way to the other side; if depth of cut is important (and it usually is!), this may be an issue.
Cheers!
Steve B
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3rd July 2005, 09:52 PM #9Banned
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Originally Posted by stuart_lees
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3rd July 2005, 10:17 PM #10Banned
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Originally Posted by Steve.Bisson@te
Doug
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4th July 2005, 01:53 AM #11
You'll find with raised panel bits that you may not be able to use any ring at all to get the bit to fit!
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4th July 2005, 03:49 PM #12Member
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Unfortunately I am also missing one straight pressure finger, so it appears my best bet will be to head down to Bunnings to see if they can supply these parts and a small insert ring. Then I can use some "trial and error" to see what works best for me.
As for the alignment tool, I am sure a router bit of similar thickness will serve the purpose and will be considerably cheaper.
Cheers,
Matt
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4th July 2005, 05:44 PM #13
Pressure finger? Oh yeah, those things. Think I used one once.
Going to make a few feather boards in the very near future - I'm sure they will be a lot more useful.
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4th July 2005, 05:50 PM #14
Yeah, pressure fingers. They came out of the box, went in the drawer and haven't seen daylight since :eek:
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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4th July 2005, 06:13 PM #15Member
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G'day Stuart and Gumby,
Are you suggesting that the straight pressure fingers (being the ones used on the table top itself) are not quite as useful as the manual attempts to make out?
Can anybody please provide me the internal measurement on the small insert ring so I can attempt to make one myself?
Cheers.
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