Thread: router table rta300 mounting bracket problems?

I have the same mounting plate. Unfortunatley my Bosch router has an odd shaped base. 2 paralell straight sides and the other two curved sides. The curves don;t form a complete circle. i.e ditance from centre not constant, which makes them next to useless. The base doesn't fit neatly it the mount so I have it twisted to fit..

One of those plastic nuts has stripped itself in eth saw mounting bracket

Originally Posted by colbaby

Hi all

i finally bought the triton setup!! Ebay granted me my wish with a huge deal workcentre 2000, triton 235mm saw, router table and stand, biscuit joiner, finger jointer, dust bag, videos accesories, spar blades etc etc, all for $911.00!!

The ebay fairy treated me well and i'm over the moon with the workcentre but i have some questions about my router table and fitting a router!

The mounting bracket (see photo attached) is not like any i have seen in pictures and spare parts lists and im really not sure how it works or if it works? do i need spare parts? (ie the more traditional mounting plate i see in the photos)

i would appreciate any feedback and look forward to sharing (finally) some of my triton adventures? cheers

col

Did a search and found this thread ,glad I did .
I bought a second hand Triton router table and stand about four weeks ago and have only just got around to having a closer look.
Ive been trying to work out the mounting plate myself ,I downloaded the manual from the Triton web page and was confused with the mounting system ,until I found thid thread.
It seems I have the earlier plate .I went out and imediately checked the clamping knobs ,yep ,metal into plastic ,I fixed those by drilling and pressing in two 6mm nuts .

The four locking knobs for the the plate to table are a different matter ,they need the nuts put into the top of the knob which is thinned down to make a finger grip.
A bit of thinkingt required here as I drilled one from the bottom and the nut just pulls out .
The other problem I found is with the fence squaring adjusting screws , the previous owner has attempted to adjust the squareness of the fence but the locking screw slots in the metal rail aren't long enough and the scews bottom out in the slot ,which has caused the threads in the plastic angles to strip out .

On removing the MDF fence faces ,I find that the plastic angles are pop riveted to the the fence .WOW !!! pop rivets into plastic.
Looks as if I have to do some major dismatling of the fence to get at the stuffed threads and replace then with metal nuts .

The knobs that tighten the hold down fingers are the same no metal threads.

I'm glad I didn't pay new price for this table .

I have been to the Triton website and couldn't see any mention of an upgrade kit .
So does any one know the part number for this kit and what it contains.
I'm guessing Ill have to order it through Bunnings and pick it up next time Im up in Darwin.Or through the local Mitre 10 scalpers and pay a lot more for it.

Hi Woodlee,

That upgrade kit was supplied to me as RTA423-Router Clamp Upgrade Kit.

Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Hi Woodlee,

That upgrade kit was supplied to me as RTA423-Router Clamp Upgrade Kit.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Shed ,
I downloaded the parts list from the Triton website after having a better look at the availble publications they offer .
Called Triton ( aka GMC) today and waited on hold for about 35mins ( bosses time)
Spoke to a very helpful fellow , who couldnt help me more .I orderd the upgraded kit for the router mount and all the knobs to replace the plastic ones with out the encapsulated nuts , the vac hose and adapters.The replacement router mount with all the clamps etc is $32.00.
I think he's sending a new fence as well ,at 36.00 dollars it's not worth stuffing about with .I just want to get it operating , hopefully next week I have a work trip to Darwin and I'll pick up the Triton beast router .
I ordered direct from them no dealers required.
I might repair the old fence myself and make some thing usefull out of it later on .
Cheers

Originally Posted by Woodlee

Thanks Shed ,
I downloaded the parts list from the Triton website after having a better look at the availble publications they offer .
Called Triton ( aka GMC) today and waited on hold for about 35mins ( bosses time)
Spoke to a very helpful fellow , who couldnt help me more .I orderd the upgraded kit for the router mount and all the knobs to replace the plastic ones with out the encapsulated nuts , the vac hose and adapters.The replacement router mount with all the clamps etc is $32.00.
I think he's sending a new fence as well ,at 36.00 dollars it's not worth stuffing about with .I just want to get it operating , hopefully next week I have a work trip to Darwin and I'll pick up the Triton beast router .
I ordered direct from them no dealers required.
I might repair the old fence myself and make some thing usefull out of it later on .
Cheers

I"ve had a couple of weeks to get things sorted with the Triton router table .
I received the new type mounting plate and have installed it ,I also got all the screw knobs with captive nuts .I thought the guy was sending me a new fence ,but he didnt .So I set about taking the plastic angled adjusters out of the fence and modifying them to fix the stripped plastic threads.
I went to the local auto shop and bought a 2 dozen 6mm nuts .I drilled the stripped threads out of the adjusters so the 6mm screw would push through .
Putting the screw through and threading a nut on to it gives a good marking gauge to mark out the hex slot so you can place the nut into the plastic .After marking the nut placement I carefuly cut out the hole for the nut with a 1/8 and 1/4 woodchisel ,being careful as the plastic is rather soft and is like butter with a very sharp chisel.
Once I had cut out the hole I mixed some 24 hr Araldite and glued the nuts into the plastic ,leaving them overnight to cure.

The next day I ground down the nut so it was level with the bottom of the plastic .One needs to be carefull here and keep dipping the assembly in water to keep it cool ,too much heat will wreck the whole show.
I placed the four adjusters back into the fence and re rivetted them into place using the metal washers to back up the rivets.Now the adjusters work great , especially if you need to adjust the fence to bring the top over to square , going the other way letting the fence over the other way ,one needs to be carefull as the screws back out an push from the head down ,too much pressure may push the nuts out of the plastic.So far all is good .

I also made my own spring loaded fence ,I bought four springs from the auto shop and some counter sunk 3/16 set screws 50mm long .I cut four pieces of 1/2 x 1/8 aluminium strip 50mm long and drilled them the fit over the scews (one in front of the spring and one at the rear , and screwed on a wing nut on each to hold it all together.
(The slots in the fence need to be filed slightly to suit the 3/16 screws ,mostly to remove the thick paint )
The next mod will be the ally table top ,I am also going to put alumimium on the sliding table as well ,to bring it up to the same height as the fixed table.Just means I will have to bore the holes to correspond to the ones in the sliding table.I may have to shim this plate also so its slightly above the fixed table.

Now one question , I'm slightly confused with Tritons instructions as far as using the shims for planing on the table . Using the planing shims you pack out the rear fence only to the desired thickness set up the cutter to the face of the fence ,and take a cut removing the shims after each feed .Is this correct ?
The way they explain it I fail to see how packing the fence outward after each cut will produce any removal of material.
Maybe I'm missing some thing here .
I guess if I had my router ,I could try it out , but until I get it I'm just guessing.

Cheers.

for planing cuts you pack out the rear fence only, I think the shims are 2 x .5 mm and 2 x 1 mm, giving you options of .5, 1.0 and 1.5 mm planing.

the router bit is set to line up with the rear fence. similar to the base of any plane, hand or power.

Assuming you used the .5 mm shims, you remove .5 mm with each pass. multiple passes gives you multiples of .5 mm (or whatever shims used) Do not remove the shims

Just thought I would post the Veritas router plate I saw on Ebay. The mount design looks pretty much like the original Triton plate.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Woodworking-V...QQcmdZViewItem

now its 2009 and im reading all this info about the same problems i had with myrRTA300 that i bought in 2002 but due to isolation from any other woodworkers or triton owners, i believed i was alone in the universe with these obvious design faults and no one else had ever bought this stuff , let alone giving a rats a about these problems .that early clamping system, looked like a childs misguided attempt to attach a router to a table , but at least the makita had never dislodged itself from the awkward mess .hope fully i will in the fullness of time aquire the mythical router plate upgrade when and if triton resurfaces like a phoenex ? from the ashes , Rossco