Thread: Router "Through-table winder accessory"

Not without some (out of warranty) cutting. However, I really don't see the point (to either router having it).

From my blog:

:clip: you don’t have above table height adjustment, but I don’t think that you actually need this. Why? Because I am already kneeling down when setting my bit height as I am sighting across the bit to the ruler, or the bit of stock that is about to be machined etc, so it makes no difference whether the handle is above or below the table - either way it is right there in easy reach. While there, I then lock the plunge mechanism, and turn the router on. (A good router table has a second on-off switch that is easy access, especially for stopping, so you only turn the router off at the router itself for bit-changing).

Yep, I agree with Stuart.

I've never felt the need for it, given that the router (coarse and fine) height adjustment knobs are easy to reach.

I don't even have to kneel down, as I've set my router table height at the level of the botton of my ribs (above waist height,not quite chest height). A slight lean to the right and my hand reaches straight onto the knob. Bend over a bit and I can sight along the plane of the table.

I agree with the above statements. I was hot to trot to get an above table winder/router lift when I built my router table. Various people here advised me that they weren't necessary, so I decided to do without, thinking I could always do a retrofit.
Glad I saved my money, the big Triton works fine without one. Now if I had put the Makita in the router table, that would be a different story!!!

If however you are determined to get an above table winding system, we all like our toys, have a look at the one that PWS sells, here. At least it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

For $100+delivery, you can have your above table winder

I have the smaller Triton router with the above table winder. I can wind the router up and change bits in a quarter of the time it takes to wind it up from underneath, How do I know because I have done it both ways. Depending on the router bit I set the height with a vernier gauge that CT sell, all very easy and fast.I had a Makita 3600 and the small Triton does every ting that it could do.
les

Thanks for the input guys. I was asking because I'm going to buy my first router soon (you beaut!) and I thought it might be worth considering; but if most of you think it doesn't matter too much, then that's good to know. Having said that, I'll prolly buy the 'little' Triton router - not because of the winder, but because several people have told me that it would do most jobs very comfortably (and of course the cost). What do you think?

The router raizer looks interesting. And just for interest's sake, I was toying with the idea of using my old computer table as a base for a router table; it's one of those ones with the big windup crank that lifts and lowers the whole tabletop. There's got to be a use for that in the workshop!

And while I've got your attention. What do you think about the idea of using/modifying a digital caliper to read/set the height?

John

Originally Posted by johnf888

The router raizer looks interesting. And just for interest's sake, I was toying with the idea of using my old computer table as a base for a router table; it's one of those ones with the big windup crank that lifts and lowers the whole tabletop. There's got to be a use for that in the workshop!

And while I've got your attention. What do you think about the idea of using/modifying a digital caliper to read/set the height?

John

John, we bought one of those old computer desks for my wife's leadlight work. I replaced the old top (to get rid of the hole) with 32mm bench top material and now she has the best leadlight bench in creation. Wind her up for cutting and soldering, sure is easy on the back, lower it for closer work. She's one happy camper.

The digital caliper idea is a good one. I have one of those Carbatec height gauges and have often thought how much nicer and easier to read that would be with a digital readout. Just have to wait for the next Aldi brochure with a digital caliper for $19.95!

Re the big vs small Triton router, utlimately it is your decision but I would still go for the big one. The kit with the winder for the small one is $50 anyway, so not that much different from the $100 for the Router Raizer.

Interesting!

Firstly - Les - not sure why you'd be winding per say - I can get the router from a working depth to bit-changing depth with one twist of the rack & pinion winder handle (the macro adjustment). My issue is - if you are relying on the through-table winder, are you engaging the plunge-lock? If you are not, what's stopping the height of the router bit changing during the cut? May not matter for rough cuts, but for edging, for rail & stile panels etc you want the height accurate, and consistent.

If you are finding that you don't need to, that is a reflection on the quality of the height mechanism, but isn't best practice. (I originally was taught this by one of Triton's original engineers, and it made sense, so incorporated it into my procedures).

Not having a go directly - sorry if it seems so - just using it as an example of how many do use their router.

John: We generally say "get the big one" - the power can handle the largest bits safely, and it is one of the best routers on the market. Sure there is a cost difference, but for a dedicated table-mounted router, this is the one to get.

Never seen a working router raizer - seen a few fitted that have stopped working, but as yet haven't had a chance to use a working one.

Digital caliper - give it a go- you might convince some of us to incorporate it into our tables Only problem is every router bit has it's own zero point- you'd have to re-calibrate every bit change. But see what you can come up with!

Originally Posted by Big Shed

The kit with the winder for the small one is $50 anyway, so not that much different from the $100 for the Router Raizer.

didn't know that - I thought it came with the router.

Originally Posted by Stuart.

Interesting!
Only problem is every route bit has it's own zero point- you'd have to re-calibrate every bit change. But see what you can come up with!

didn't know that either! I'm a virgin, you see - I've never routed before.

Originally Posted by jaspr

Yep, I agree with Stuart.

I've never felt the need for it, given that the router (coarse and fine) height adjustment knobs are easy to reach.

I don't even have to kneel down, as I've set my router table height at the level of the botton of my ribs (above waist height,not quite chest height). A slight lean to the right and my hand reaches straight onto the knob. Bend over a bit and I can sight along the plane of the table.

Now THAT is one of the best peices of info Ive yet found regarding a router table!

I still have the one from Carbetexus (RT-660) I bought ages ago and intend to replace with a home built one but havent gotten around to it yet... and I definantly have issues bending down to fiddle with the damned knobs on the big Triton that lives under there... with bung knees this is a major deterant to using it I can tell you... so I will thank you Clare for the suggestion and incorporate the height of the table into the plans Im creating

I will do this and then decide if I need a lifter

Cheers
Shane